• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

For those with trimmed fenders - what did you do for a splashguard?

9

90Pioneer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
USA
This is a question for those who have trimmed their fenders.

I have a 96 XJ with 5.5" lift and 33"s. I have trimmed my front fenders pretty much as much as you can without cutting the pinch seam. I trimmed and relocated the factory fender flares, which works great actually.

I plan to trim my rear fenders tomorrow. I'll also be relocating the factory flares.

My question is what did you guys do for the splash guard? I tried to modify my stock one and secure it with those plastic retaining tabs and zip tires. It works OK but as soon as you go wheeling the guard works itself loose and sags everywhere.

I was thinking of bedlining (linex?) the wheel wheels, and relocating my horn. Would this work pretty good? Should I be concerned about the various holes in the unibody? Should I try to cover them or leave them open?

Also what should I do with the space between the fender and the door? It piles up with mud in no time.
 
Pool noodles work good. I also know that you can reuse the stock splashguards if you're creative. I just sprayed undercoating (about 1" thick) inside there and I don't have a washer bottle in there because I have ARB snorkel.

I'm getting ready to install a set of Bushwackers because I was pulled over for having no flares. I didn't think Florida had such a law, but apparently they do now...
 
just take out the splash guades and use whatever you want to fill the hole between the fendar and the door.
 
splash guards???



heh heh. i cut them out and did the same thing, undercoating, but 1" thick of undercoat? how many bottles did that take? its a rubber substance i doubt 1 inch is necessary.
 
I've heard theres a kind of roofing tar/sealant that is pliable enough stick in there and shape to seal all the things up and it dries rock hard.. thats what I have heard. How about some picks Id like to see what you did with the flares and how much you trimed
 
bigolexj said:
Yeah, I went overboard with the undercoating to make sure it didn't rust, ever.. lol
Click to expand...



hahaha, little did you know, there was existing rust that you just coverd up with 1" of rubber so you'll never see it until it fails!!! either that, or you sealed water up into it! Rust is enevitable. Always gonna have some somewhere......
 
53guy said:
hahaha, little did you know, there was existing rust that you just coverd up with 1" of rubber so you'll never see it until it fails!!! either that, or you sealed water up into it! Rust is enevitable. Always gonna have some somewhere......
Click to expand...

In my (pathetic) defense, I did spray it with POR-15 first. So I have some expensive rust under expensive rubber! lol
 
twisted_ed said:
I've heard theres a kind of roofing tar/sealant that is pliable enough stick in there and shape to seal all the things up and it dries rock hard.. thats what I have heard. How about some picks Id like to see what you did with the flares and how much you trimed
Click to expand...

I'm working on the rear fenders as I type this (break time). I got a late start but I should be able to get one side completed tonight, or very close to. I have to go out and buy some more dremel cutting disks. I will post pictures when I'm finished up with one side of the rear.

I don't have kids. Where can one buy a pool noodle at?

Should I bedline my fender wells, or just leave them alone? I would be afraid of trapping rust or water up in there. Maybe I'll just paint them so they'll look pretty for the pictures.
 
I didn't use anything. My horns are swung in where the opening faces up. They still work very well somehow lol.
 
Sounds like its time for the sawzall! But seriously thats how I cut mine. I was just going to trim my fenders and then relocate the stock flares but I ended up just leaving them cut with no flares for about 6 months then puting bushwackers on. Remember this.....if you ever decide to go for the bushwackers, get a BFH(big f'n Hammer)
 
Littleg182 said:
Sounds like its time for the sawzall! But seriously thats how I cut mine. I was just going to trim my fenders and then relocate the stock flares but I ended up just leaving them cut with no flares for about 6 months then puting bushwackers on. Remember this.....if you ever decide to go for the bushwackers, get a BFH(big f'n Hammer)
Click to expand...

I thought about a sawzall or angle grinder but the tool just seemed too big for the job.

I originally planned to put bushwackers on. I even bought a set and had them in my living room for a couple weeks. I decided the best option for me was to just raise the stock flares. I read too many threads about bushwackers ripping/cracking/breaking off when wheeling.

Just got back from Home Depot with a new Dremel.
 
90Pioneer said:
I thought about a sawzall or angle grinder but the tool just seemed too big for the job....Just got back from Home Depot with a new Dremel.
Click to expand...

not true at all. i tried both methods-dremel and angle grinder- and i must say i loved the angle grinder. the dremel took too long and went through way too many disks. it is a little harder to do the curves though, but a sanding flap disk cleared that all up.

my vote is for the grinder.
 
get a $35-$50 4" or 4 1/2" angle grinder and get a $10.00 full face shield. Dremel not appropriate for the metal unless i am misunderstanding you. Great to trim up the plastic ... but the fact it blew the motor ?? You can make MUCH nicer cuts with a angle grinder than a sawzall, and a dremel is a toy compared to 4 1/2" angle grinder. giterdone
 
I agree with motorcityxj. Definitely use a cut off wheel or angle grinder. Those dremels are dangerous for cutting metal at least for me--I tend to spin them to the max and end up tossing wheels and bits. lol
 
i used a jig saw with a sheet metal blade. lower corners were tricky but a grinder fixed em right up. was like a knife through butter. nice clean cuts too.
 
motorcityxj said:
get a $35-$50 4" or 4 1/2" angle grinder and get a $10.00 full face shield. Dremel not appropriate for the metal unless i am misunderstanding you. Great to trim up the plastic ... but the fact it blew the motor ?? You can make MUCH nicer cuts with a angle grinder than a sawzall, and a dremel is a toy compared to 4 1/2" angle grinder. giterdone
Click to expand...

Yup it went up in smoke I thought it was going to catch my glove on fire. I trimmed my front fenders with the now blown dremel and it worked fine, but yeah, it did struggle.
 
90Pioneer said:
Well I just got delayed. The motor on my Dremel 400 XPR just blow up in smoke.

Only a few months old too.
Click to expand...


I went through 4 of thoughs cutting my fenders. My angel grinder was at home and I was at my grandpas. So I just kept returning it, till I got one that didn't want to burn up. I ended up with the cordless one. Battery runs out before it burns up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Anak
How Much Clearance for Trailer Fenders?
Replies
5
Views
1K
JohnX
JohnX
Root Moose
Mild Lifting with OEM Parts
Replies
12
Views
1K
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
I
Bought Son 2000 XJ, Need Help with RC Lift
2 3
Replies
45
Views
6K
Tim_MN
Tim_MN
M
A few comments on RC 4.5" long arm setup
Replies
2
Views
3K
maxbraketorque
M
H
Best after market body parts
Replies
6
Views
2K
AndrewJohnston
A
Back
Top