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Renix Key lock mechanism will not come out of column

Ecomike

Ecomike

NAXJA# 2091
NAXJA Member
Location
MilkyWay Galaxy
As the title says, my old Key lock mechanism will not come out of column. It seized up so I am replacing it. I already have reached the stage where I should be able to pull it out, but all I got was the 2 ears and the external cover piece while trying to force it out. Here is a link to the procedures I followed. I am at the point where it should release and come out.

http://www.chevyasylum.com/column/tiltcol.html

I am afraid of breaking something trying to get it out. I think I read where someone drilled theirs out through the key hole or something. Does that work? What are the risks? Where do you drill?

Any hard knox experience with this?
 
AFTER removing the lock screw, mine always pulled straight out easily. All three times.

Like 5-90 said, it's the Torx screw.

. . . . . ( waiting for feedback, runs downstairs for more coffee . . . ..)
 
Yes the torx screw is out.

"88 switch Ignition Lock removal (write up) from shelbyluvv"

Where do I find it?
 
I drilled one out on my Bronco II once...went to deep and a little off center and damaged the gear that drives the pinion that moves the rod to the ignition switch...

What a PIA to drill out! Do yourself a favor and try every other suggestion, but drilling should be only as a last resort.

When I look back on it, I would have been better off to have a locksmith change the cylinder (like my neighbor did for $80).
If you can find one of the old timers around that will still give it a shot.
 
Last edited:
It's been a dozen years since I replaced one, but I seem to remember having to remove the buzzer switch at the very inside end of the tumbler before I could pull the tumbler out. It's a "V" shaped peace of flat copper, that needs to be squeezed almost flat to remove. Watch closely how it comes out, trying to reinstall it upside down will cause problems.
On other occasions, the ignition switch rod had jumped out and jammed or the steering wheel lock cam had jammed (you may have to turn the steering wheel shaft slightly, to remove the stress). But usually during reassembly.
 
8Mud,

Greetings! I did pull the buzzer switch and its spring already before I used force, but thanks. It is a tricky part to reinstall, so you comment may help others down the line. The rod jumping out and jamming somehow is a possibility, but not sure how to get to that area yet, I have yet to get to that area of a column? The steering wheel lock cam seems to be OK.
I am thinking of driving a screwdriver into the lock hole and using it as tool?


8Mud said:
It's been a dozen years since I replaced one, but I seem to remember having to remove the buzzer switch at the very inside end of the tumbler before I could pull the tumbler out. It's a "V" shaped peace of flat copper, that needs to be squeezed almost flat to remove. Watch closely how it comes out, trying to reinstall it upside down will cause problems.
On other occasions, the ignition switch rod had jumped out and jammed or the steering wheel lock cam had jammed (you may have to turn the steering wheel shaft slightly, to remove the stress). But usually during reassembly.
Click to expand...
 
Yes, but It was partly seizing up, very hard to turn, and I forced it to run - start and pack to run, then back to Off several times trying to free it up, before I gave up and started tearing into it. It would still turn, and was in the off position when I started the tear down.

McQue said:
Do you have the lock cylinder rotated to the "Run" position while you are trying to pull it out?
Click to expand...
 
Well, I can tell you that on my Bronco it has to be in the run position with the key in the lock, to pull it out.
and that is when nothing is broken.

Mine wouldn't turn to the run position any more because the cylinder got sloppy and the pins became jammed in there...so I had to drill it out.
 
That may be part of my problem, as the key suddenly stopped working just after I started tearing into the column. Not sure why. The tumblers act seized up.

McQue said:
Well, I can tell you that on my Bronco it has to be in the run position with the key in the lock, to pull it out.
and that is when nothing is broken.

Mine wouldn't turn to the run position any more because the cylinder got sloppy and the pins became jammed in there...so I had to drill it out.
Click to expand...
 
Sounds like it...and driving a screwdriver into it may just spread the cylinder, the tumbler pins, and make the cylinder get tighter in the column casing.

I would lubricate it and try some some compressed air as well to see if you can unjam the tumbler pins.
 
Red90Laredo said:
I dunno what we are going for here, but in a pickle a slide hammer is a helluva tool.
Click to expand...
A slide hammer with a sheet metal screw on the end can pull the cylinder out, though it may tear up some things you may not want torn up.
Try spraying some lock ease into the cylinder then, insertintng the key and tap end of the key with a screwdriver handle. A hard plastic screw driver handle seems to work best. I've even used this method to get a wrong key to work.
I've had a couple of cylinders come out hard, but most times jiggling and patience got it done. I've had the interlock unload a couple of times on Chev and Jeep columns when I pulled the cylinder, which leads me to believe a slight mis alignment or adjustment issue with the interlock can load up the cylinder and make it hard to remove. Maybe try depressing the steering wheel lock mechanism by hand (remove some tension) while trying to remove the cylinder.
If you have a tilt wheel, try moving it to align the column as strait as possible.
 
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It is an 85 Cherokee pioneer, standard shift, with no interlock.
Jess said:
not sure if it will help, but you could try removing the interlock cable from the shifter
Click to expand...
 
sheet metal screw with a slide hammer worked for me, try putting a 90 degree pick in the torx hole, and push it out there, thats not much force, but maybe enough, and to tapping the key and turning it over, even if its the wrong key. Thats referred to as "knocking" a method usually used on dead bolts, where you cut a straight line down the key, and tap it gently while turning, it allows clearance for the tumblers to fall into place, never heard of it working on a car, but there is only 9(probaly wrong) different GM keys for that column i think.
 
What is a slide hammer?
 
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