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Brake/Unit bearing issues

WaXJ_Skier

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Bellevue, Wa
The last week Ive had grinding issues with the front end coming from the drivers side. Also when turning I get a loud banging coming from the same side.

I figured there's two options for each problem

Grinding
brakes?
unit bearing going out?

Banging

U-joint?
Ball Joint(s)?


So after grabbing some spare parts from the JY and Parts store I ripped it apart today. I have found a few issues I'd like some advice on

1. The rotor seems fused to the unit bearing I cannot get it to budge.

2. The nut on the stub shaft was way over torqued by whoever tightened it last. I have roughly a 2.5ft breaker bar and the passenger tire is on the ground. I can Spin that tire in place with the braker bar attached to the nut.

Any ideas? This is on my DD 87 limited.
 
That nut is 175 ft lbs. If it's not tight like that it fails. Put it in FWD. Put a block of wood to keep the pistons in that caliper from popping out. Get somebody to hold the brake pedal down. Beat the rotor with a big piece of wood or wood and hammer?
 
I beat the rotor pretty good. I'll have to check with my torque wrench tomorrow I'm pretty sure I got close. Me(185lbs) standing on a ~2.5ft breaker bar. I'm pretty sure the PO messed a lot of stuff up. There were at least 4 different types of lug nuts over torqued and stripped. I also had to use a bolt extracting kit to get the caliper bolts out because those were pretty mangled.
 
Sometimes those stubshaft nuts are bastages to get off!! Time for some new unit bearings, I would do both if you can afford it! As far as the caliper goes, it just slides on the unit bearing....... fused it should not be!!! Did you remove the caliper first( stupid question BUT)??? A BFH should do the trick if it is stuck!! Replace the rotor and brake pads too!! And when you reinstall the new unit bearing it MUST be torqued to 175 ft lbs!!!
 
1) Bigger hammer, PB blaster around the bearing; a little heat might help too. Put OLD lug nuts back on the studs if re-using the bearing so you don't damage them with the hammer.

2) Cheater bar on the breaker bar, then like winterbeater says.
 
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