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dana 44 rear axle tech questions

D

drknyt

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Cedar City, UT
i searched and searched :geek: and all i found was tech for a 44 front axle, so here are my questions, i just pulled a rear d44 out of my 90 mj, i'm planning on putting it under my cherokee, i was cleaning it up and saw it has the factory limited slip, i think they call it a tracloc, anyways, how good do these lock up with the limited slip lube added? is a there a fluid that works better than the rest? also, its not a c-clip, it has the flange behind the brake drum, is this better than c-clips for a strickly offroad vehicle? is it okay to carry spares with the bearing already pressed on and run it in the same race? i'm only running 33s with no intention of going any bigger, for a long while, also were all the d44s out of mjs and xjs 30 spline? mine is so i was just curious, any help answering these questions or links that can answer these is greatly appriciated
 
should be 30 spline like al the xj44s
C clips are not what I want. I would rather break a shaft and not have the tire fall out.
Not sure why it would even matter if it was the same race and a different bearing as long as the bearing and race were both good still.
 
Considering the types of questions you are asking you might want to make sure that you can do the soa swap safely and correctly before you go and sink a money into that axle.
 
downhillracer said:
Considering the types of questions you are asking you might want to make sure that you can do the soa swap safely and correctly before you go and sink a money into that axle.
Click to expand...

what??
cut the perches and shock mounts off.
weld new ones on in the correct locations.
MJ axle is now XJ axle. :guitar:

Kyle check the gear ratio before you throw it in.
the factory limited slip is almost worthless when you lift a tire, especially if you don't rebuilt it since it's 19 years old.
just pickup the limited slip additive.
 
Gravesdiggerxj said:
what??
cut the perches and shock mounts off.
weld new ones on in the correct locations.
MJ axle is now XJ axle. :guitar:

Kyle check the gear ratio before you throw it in.
the factory limited slip is almost worthless when you lift a tire, especially if you don't rebuilt it since it's 19 years old.
just pickup the limited slip additive.
Click to expand...

What about using the e-brake with the ls to help pos engage the lsd?
 
still not a locker.... and its still 20 years old. he has to regear for 33's, so drop an aussie in a new carrier, maybe discs brakes, and call it done.

full floater > semi floater (d44 rear) > c-clips, c-clips are the weakest design for performance.

what about it? pushing the brake may preload the clutches, and get you out of something, but its extra strain on the axle/suspension that you shouldnt rely on during the build stage... and aussie is $240, and will serve you well!
 
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xcm said:
still not a locker.... and its still 20 years old. he has to regear for 33's, so drop an aussie in a new carrier, maybe discs brakes, and call it done.

full floater > semi floater (d44 rear) > c-clips, c-clips are the weakest design for performance.

what about it? pushing the brake may preload the clutches, and get you out of something, but its extra strain on the axle/suspension that you shouldnt rely on during the build stage... and aussie is $240, and will serve you well!
Click to expand...

I did not say it was a locker. I would do an aussie or a lockright but times are hard and he might get by without it.
 
its got amazing 3.07s in it now!:puke:but my jeep has 3.73s now so im looking for a set, i got thinking and i could probably make a dual e brake set up pretty easy, one lever for each back wheel, what do you guys think about that? and why would it be so hard to put perches and shock mounts? right now all it has is sprung under perches because the shock mounts were part of the u bolt plates... and yes i am converting to SOA
 
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downhillracer , i dont know as much as some of you guys who have been in the sport longer, but i do know how to measure pinion angle and i know how to weld, i just had a couple questions so i could learn more about it, i do appreciate your guy's help!
 
Youd be much better served putting a lunchbox locker in there than making individual cutting brakes to limit wheelspin. It'll be worth it to spend the $250 and be done with it. You could also likely find a set of 3.73" gears for it, I'm pretty sure mine came with 3.73"s before I pulled them out and had it re-geared with 4.88"s. Ask around your local chapter, see if anyone has a decent set of used R&P sitting around.
 
you dont still have the gears do ya, i found some in PA and i'm working on getting money so he could ship them to me.... otherwise i haven't been able to really find any.... and what exactly is a lunchbox locker? the reason i say the dual set up is a i have a parts jeep that i could pull everything out of then just use some scrap metal and fab it up, don't think it'd be too hard....
 
drknyt said:
you dont still have the gears do ya, i found some in PA and i'm working on getting money so he could ship them to me.... otherwise i haven't been able to really find any.... and what exactly is a lunchbox locker? the reason i say the dual set up is a i have a parts jeep that i could pull everything out of then just use some scrap metal and fab it up, don't think it'd be too hard....
Click to expand...

I do have the gear set, sitting in a bucket in my garage. I'll double-check the ratio, just to satisfy my curiousity if nothing else. A lunchbox locker is one that you install in the factory carrier, it replaces the spider gears. Aussie, Lock-Rite, Detroit E-Z Locker are all examples. They tend to run about $250-300 as opposed to $500-ish and up for a full-case locker such as a Detroit, Ox, or ARB. Lunchbox lockers are inherently weaker as a rule due to using the stock carrier, but they work well for a lot of people. I used them in my other Jeep years ago (E-Z Locker and Lock-Rite) and they did okay for awhile, but stripped and then sheared the stock carrier after I replaced the E-Z with a Lock-Rite. They don't like big tires and throttle very much.
 
drknyt said:
downhillracer , i dont know as much as some of you guys who have been in the sport longer, but i do know how to measure pinion angle and i know how to weld, i just had a couple questions so i could learn more about it, i do appreciate your guy's help!
Click to expand...

My bad..... its just the questions you are asking seemed pretty basic for someone who is doing this type of swap..... not that its all that hard. I wasnt trying to put you down, just didnt know that you where aware of all that is involved. Good luck and take pictures!
 
Also you eluded to the fact that this is an offroad only vehicle I think. The best route for you may be to get a full spool instead of a lunchbox locker. With the lunchbox you will still need to get a a larger carrier than the one used with the 3.07 gears. You can pick up a full spool for about 80 bucks on completeoffroad. If you go the lunchbox route they are around 270$ and you will still have to get a carrier for 3.73 and up gears that you can get used for about 50$. The downside to a spool is that it does not ratchet so it will eat your rear tires up pretty fast if you dont rotate. If its an offroad only vehicle you dont have to worry about that much. Either way you will have to set up the new gears though. Hope that helps.
 
the only thing with a spool is im kinda on a budget.... but right now im in school to be ASE cert. :) and were actually in manual drivetrains, so doing the gears now is perfect because i can get credit in school for it haha and another thing is i have it registered as a OHV in S. utah so i can drive it on most of the roads if "I'm going to a trail" so i dont know if a spool would be a good idea...
 
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