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headers

4

4x4JeePmaNthINg

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Colorado
hey jeepers,

i have a 99 xj with a cracked exhaust manifold. Can anyone advise me to some good performance headers that wont empty my wallet. aka borla/gibson-though they are great, $$$$$$$ too much.

can i replace this myself, do i get into shutting off any fuel lines or something that i may want to consider a pro-what would i be getting into?
 
4x4JeePmaNthINg said:
hey jeepers,

i have a 99 xj with a cracked exhaust manifold. Can anyone advise me to some good performance headers that wont empty my wallet. aka borla/gibson-though they are great, $$$$$$$ too much.

can i replace this myself, do i get into shutting off any fuel lines or something that i may want to consider a pro-what would i be getting into?
Click to expand...

not hard to replace a header, just time consuming and alot has to come off. the intake and exhaust manifold share the same bolts and gasket. dont know what your experience is, but i would not pay someone to do it. install cost because of how much time it takes could be $500.

search for header choices, this topic comes up 1 a week and there are tons of threads about choices and price.
 
I wound suggest a APN Header. It's designed exactly like the Banks Torque Tube header. But cheaper I think I paid less than $200 for mine shipped. Great design material could be better but you get what you pay for. good luck. It took me about 2.5 hours to swap it out.:patriot:
 
I would second the APN. It's not the best stainless, but it is stainless. 304? It's been covered on here numerous times- some searching should tell you everything you need to know. I just did an intake mani swap/APN header/downpipe/cat this summer, and got all the parts and know how needed by digging around here.

I wouldn't expect a simple 2.5 hour swap, but it can be done in a weekend by about anyone who can turn a wrench and follow directions. If you're slightly more competent than that, it's a one day job.
 
Not a terribly hard job a few extensions, wobblies, doulbled elbowed arms w/girly hands, fuel line disco, and some patience.
You'll be fine post up if you have any problems, you may need to shave #6 intake runner and massage #6 exhaust primary a little. My biggest concern is if you have pre-cats, these don't. Smog may be an issue.
KryptoniteXJ said:
I wound suggest a APN Header. It's designed exactly like the Banks Torque Tube header. But cheaper I think I paid less than $200 for mine shipped. Great design material could be better but you get what you pay for. good luck. It took me about 2.5 hour
s to swap it out.:patriot:
Click to expand...
You've been misinformed about the Banks.
I see a difference don't you?


hubs97xj said:
I would second the APN. It's not the best stainless, but it is stainless. 304? It's been covered on here numerous times- some searching should tell you everything you need to know. I just did an intake mani swap/APN header/downpipe/cat this summer, and got all the parts and know how needed by digging around here.

I wouldn't expect a simple 2.5 hour swap, but it can be done in a weekend by about anyone who can turn a wrench and follow directions. If you're slightly more competent than that, it's a one day job.
Click to expand...
Try researching before posting heresay.
321 ss has been treated with titanium 304 has not.
Should work fine as this type of steel can be used in afterburner parts, and super heaters, Id trust it for this application.
321 stainless steel is most similar to 304 stainless steel, however it contains the addition of Titanium making it an excellent choice for prolonged high temperature applications. The addition of Titanium stabilizes this grade of stainless steel against the formation of Chromium Carbide in heat ranges between 800 to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit.
Common Applications


  • Aircraft exhaust stacks
  • Manifolds
  • Chemical processing equipment
  • Welded equipment
  • Jet engine parts
Click to expand...
It's not pretty after it is heated , but who cares.
If you're going to drop coin on header,even the cheap one get some quality after market engine mounts!:)(clickies)
 
Last edited:
thats the new banks. They rerouted the primary tubes to create equal lengths. Very cool!

the APN is a copy of the old, banks 91-99 cherokee header

the only qualitative difference between the APN and the old Banks? The Banks primary tubes are welded inside and out to the flange

The APN is only welded on the insides of the primaries to the tubes.

And the APN 321 stainless is holding up well on my example. The tubes are free of corrosion, the flange is surface rusting very slowly. A good part for $120.
 
dont mean to hijack but how come their ar elike no header listings for renix 4.0's? i always see them for 91 and up
 
If you're on a tight budget (who isn't) I recommend you get the stock header reinforced and invest in some good aftermarket engine mounts as previously stated. You won't realize much benefit from a freer flowing header without head and other exhaust modifications anyway. The stock heads are designed to work best with some back pressure. The most common cause of header cracks is engine torque twisting against the exhaust and stressing it till it cracks. Limit this engine torque with some sturdy mounts and the header will go much longer without cracks.
 
please dont get the Banks header.
I love their company but I have had their header for about a year and a half and its crackin like crazy in the same place the stock one does.
Just saying that I was disappointed.
 
dont waste your money on gibson or borla,you can pick up a pacesetter for under 200.00,fitment is better then gibson flanges are thicker and it gives a nice sound,and you will feel a little better off the line,only drawback is the black paint burns off within a week but a little bbq grill paint fixed that problem,i have put on and used gibson and pacesetter and hands down the pacesetter wins and is half the price.
 
With Pacesetter they supply "u" bolt style clamps, they never sealed up right.
I reccomend investing in SS "fitted" band clamps with the built in step for the slip fit joint.
It's worth while to cut a little here & there for a tighter fitment to engine.
Way better than stock, I tried to use ceramic "header" paint, still flaked off in spots even with curing in oven for several hours.
 
I have a pacesetter, and it fits well, and has held up well. The gasket that came with it was cardboard crap so I used a Felpro as it has metal inserts. The clamps wern't that great but they never leaked, tho they hit the DS when flexed. I have since welded the joints as well as fill in the EGR hole when I switched engines.

The deign and the price are good, but as said the paint burns off immediately unless you buy the ceramic coated one. I feel that the pacesetter was a worthwhile addition.
 
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