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Need help with Clutch

chedisme

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
middletown, NY
So heres my issue- There's something wrong with my slave or master cylinder, because I cant get my heep into gear. I dont think its leaking externally cause I dont see any fluid near the slave housing and dint notice any near the MC. but my reservoir is almost empty. that makes me think its leaking into the clutch disk area, which would ruin it right? is there anyway to check if its contaminated without cracking the trany open?

here's what i guess is my real question. I have almost 95k on my original clutch. If im going to get my master and slave replaced should I just break down and get the whole clutch done. I mean wont it probly bite the dust in the next 20k anyway? Im not the best with the 5sped offroad, and I just got a hand throttel, so the learning proces with that will most likly wear it out a bit.

on the other hand I have about 200$ to my name so id have to borrow money from my grandfather. he would deffinatly give it to me but I hate asking him for it.

thanks in advance.

oh and if I do replace the clutch any ideas on a good aftermarket brand to go with? I have heard that the oem ones arent that good.

I have a 98 2dr with a 4.0/ax-15/np231/8.25
 
A 98 would be an external slave on an AX15. It's possible that it's leaking around the piston rod and into the bellhousing.

Take a good look under the master cylinder, and make sure it's not dripping down onto the C101 connector block. The fluid will corrode & dissolve the plastic.

I've got a Luk in mine, no complaints.

There's no reason a clutch shouldn't last over a 100k miles, The big thing is to not slip the clutch, and never run with your foot on the clutch. Fully engaged, or fully disengaged as much as possible.
 
A 98 would be an external slave on an AX15. It's possible that it's leaking around the piston rod and into the bellhousing.

Take a good look under the master cylinder, and make sure it's not dripping down onto the C101 connector block. The fluid will corrode & dissolve the plastic.

I've got a Luk in mine, no complaints.

There's no reason a clutch shouldn't last over a 100k miles, The big thing is to not slip the clutch, and never run with your foot on the clutch. Fully engaged, or fully disengaged as much as possible.

Ill take a better look around the MC.

so you think it would be a good idea to just get the cylinders done, then wait for the clutch to die? given its not contaminated.

and I do my best to never slip the clutch, but I have the feeling that while im getting used to the hand throttle it will happen a few times.
 
Just fix what you have to. No telling how long your clutch will last. It could leak without contaminating the clutch. If it's leaking there, it would be dripping out of the bell housing. It could also be a slow longterm leak. Refill the master with brake fluid and carry some with you. You might be good for a while.
 
The master/slave set is pretty simple to replace. On an external slave, you don't need to split the transmission apart either. I've never replaced mine, there have been problems with some of the aftermarket replacements.

That fluid has to be going SOMEWHERE. Figure out where before you end up walking.
 
J It could also be a slow longterm leak. Refill the master with brake fluid and carry some with you. You might be good for a while.

thats what I was going to try to do. but I think its a fast leak. Im pretty sure I broke the mounts where the t-case bolts to the cross brace. last time I was out(just before this happened) I wheeling and tried to go up this snowy hill. to cut the story down some my trany was flopping around like a fish. I think this broke something.

I probly should have included that in the first post.
 
i replaced the clutch/pressure plate/hydraulics on my 89 after 170K miles. it stll grabbed ok but slipped when downshifting into gear.

if the master is dry, then you have a leak. when the internal slave on mine leaked, it imediated went bad. the slave leaked down to the bottom of the bellhousing and out the bottom without hitting the preesure plate or clutch disc.

im assuming that if you have the external and its leaking, you need to check if its leaking down the shift fork and onto the pressure plate and then to the clutch disc. if leaking bad enough, it will leak out the bottom of the bellhousing and look similair to a rear main leak, just different fliud.

the master can leak at the push rod which is connected to the clutch pedal arm. mine leaked on the fuse block and made a meess of it. hydraulic/brake fluid is very corrosive and will eat plastic.

i have a centerforce 2 on my 89 with the ba-10 trans and have no problems with the cluch or pressure plate.

running larger than stock tires and not regearing will also wear the clutch faster than normal.
 
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