Ford 8.8 or D44

I've got to make a quick decision and could use some input. I can either go with an 8.8 out of a 2000 exploder with disc brakes or a D44 with drum brakes out of an XJ . Not sure which will be stronger and better in the long run. I'm kinda leaning to the Ford 8.8 but not sure. I'll have to change the gearing either way so it's just a matter of bang for the buck. The 8.8 is $200. and the D44 is $180.
If I go with the D44 am I going to have to change out the axles if I'm running 35's or smaller with a lunch box locker? or would it be better to go with the 8.8 with the lunchbox locker?
Oh yeah it's going in an 89XJ

:confused1:dunno::dunno:

Either will be fine with 35's. The 8.8 will be stronger, but I chose a 44 myself. Bolt in shafts, more aftermarket parts, and it's a direct bolt in.

8.8 has discs already, so that's a plus. It's c-clip, but not that big of a deal as they're 31-spline shafts. However it will need new brackets welded on for your XJ. You may also want to run a wheel spacer if you care enough (I believe they're 1" narrower). I know people who don't and it isn't that noticeable.

D44 bolts right in, and does not use c-clips. 30 spline shafts stock, but there is a big aftermarket. However it does have drums (though 10"), so if you want discs be prepared to do the 8.8 rear disc swap.

Either axle will suit you fine.

i would go D44 for ease of install. it is much easier to convert to discs then it is to cut and weld perches. I think it is worth it for the aftermarket support. If you want to weld in something beefy, then go with a 9"

Matt98XJ said:

Either will be fine with 35's. The 8.8 will be stronger, but I chose a 44 myself. Bolt in shafts, more aftermarket parts, and it's a direct bolt in.

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Thats true, I would go for the 44. People get 8.8s because they are a dime a dozen (but you already found a 44 for cheaper, so that that point is void) and they have the gears they want, such as 4.10s (but you are regearing either way, so that point is void too). So, I would say get the 44 and run disk brakes at a later time if you feel the need. I have an 8.8 and love it though..

I built and swapped an 8.8 because I spent 4 months looking for a D44 that was under $500 and didn't find any.
Another vote for the D44.

wolfpackjeeper said:

i would go D44 for ease of install. it is much easier to convert to discs then it is to cut and weld perches. I think it is worth it for the aftermarket support. If you want to weld in something beefy, then go with a 9"

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A 9" has the worst pinion location (lowest) unless you bite the bullet and go with a true hi 9.

A Dana 60 is one of the best in regards to pinion location and when shaved the same as a D44.

I ran a 8.8 for a while and hammered the crap out of it for a while. I would run it again in a heart beat if I were to run 35s again.

You wont have to buy a new carrier when you regear the 8.8.

Disc brakes are a huge plus. You'll be spending more than the $20 difference for a disc conversion and a new carrier, but you do have to do new mounts.

Dana 60

I agree, both are a good swap. It's up to you to decide which is easier/cheaper for you.

The 8.8 is stronger and also has a tone of aftermarket support.

"The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
-------------------------------
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500] "

"Explorer 8.8 Measurements:

O.D. of tubes: 3.250". Dana 44 2.75" axle tube
Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188”!)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800". Dana 44 8.5" ring gear
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter/splines: 1.625 / 30. Dana 44 pinion diameter 1.376"
Axle shaft/splines: 1.320 / 31. Dana 44 1.31/ 30
Rotor thickness (where it mounts to axle is .250").
Overall width 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35"

You will have to weld on new brackets to fit it in an xj.

Also recommended, weld the tubes, replace the stock carrier, and replace the stock diff cover. It's thin. I'm running 1" wheel adaptors but it's not necessary to do so.

As mentioned, it is a c-clip axle but you'll have to break a shaft first. You can always upgrade to Superior's c-clip eliminator kit later on and run 38"s.

Deadman 94 xj said:

I agree, both are a good swap. It's up to you to decide which is easier/cheaper for you.

The 8.8 is stronger and also has a tone of aftermarket support.

"The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
-------------------------------
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500] "

"Explorer 8.8 Measurements:

O.D. of tubes: 3.250". Dana 44 2.75" axle tube
Tube thickness: .250" (some are .188”!)
Ring gear diameter: 8.800". Dana 44 8.5" ring gear
Ring gear bolts: 7/16" dia. (qty. 10).
Pinion diameter/splines: 1.625 / 30. Dana 44 pinion diameter 1.376"
Axle shaft/splines: 1.320 / 31. Dana 44 1.31/ 30
Rotor thickness (where it mounts to axle is .250").
Overall width 59.625" (the F8.8 is .950" narrower then a TJ Dana 35"

You will have to weld on new brackets to fit it in an xj.

Also recommended, weld the tubes, replace the stock carrier, and replace the stock diff cover. It's thin. I'm running 1" wheel adaptors but it's not necessary to do so.

As mentioned, it is a c-clip axle but you'll have to break a shaft first. You can always upgrade to Superior's c-clip eliminator kit later on and run 38"s.

Click to expand...

sweet stats thanks for the info. Im running a 8.8 and love it. For 20 bucks more go with the 8.8. like stated before it has disc breaks already. Eventully you may want stonger breaks. Why not have them already? Also perches are easy to do. You get the correct pinion angel and dont have to run degree shims as a bonus.

As for the lunchbox, save it for school. save a few more bucks and get a full on locker. you will be happier with the preformance imo.

A D44 is more than enough to handle 35s even when it is locked. I've got a friend running 35s and an e-locker on his D44 and he's got a lead foot too. Just my two cents. And you can always get disks for it later too along with stronger shafts and what-not. Of course thats true for both.

44!!atriot:

Dosen't matter, you'll be happy with either one. I have an 8.8 because they're easy to find and real cheap. You can also find spare parts like shafts for the 8.8 whereas the 44 you'd be lookin' for a while for a cheap set.

reelbigdundy87 said:

You can also find spare parts like shafts for the 8.8 whereas the 44 you'd be lookin' for a while for a cheap set.

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Although you can use TJ D44 shafts as spares as well, all you'd have to do is swap retainer plates (unless you have discs, then just redrill it).

If you're going to the point of a full case locker and all that, you can go with 33 or 35 spline alloys in the D44. But then you're moving the weak link elsewhere (pinion probably).

I can't remember if there are shaft upgrades for the 8.8?

It is 6 of one half a dozen of another.

8.8 has the discs already but you will need brackets welded and it is like 1.25 inches narrower than the XJ D44

D44 is bolt in but if you want discs you will need to spring for $600 kit or do the exploder or CV junk yard kit for about $200 when you do new rotors/calipers,pads and lines. so you are spending about the same amount of if you do the disc conversion as you would to get the brackets

The tubes on the 8.8 are prone to spin if not welded and with the pumpkin being cast it is not a welding job that many people can do well 8.8 is c-clip so an axle shaft swap on the trail will be a harder swap since you will have to open the pumpkin

If you run the D44 and do the disc conversion you will have a spacer to deal with so it will not be as easy as bumming a shaft from somebody on the trail.

It is really your choice and while there are pros can cons to each axle I do not believe that many people will fault you for either choice.


I went the D44 with CV brakes...since I do not weld well enough to weld the brackets on myself. I also went 4.88 with ARB air locker. I do not feel that I will break my D44 on the trail with just 31 inch tires.... Unless I get real stupid with the right pedal.

Wow thanx for all the input guys. I ended up grabbing the 8.8 because it's a bit stronger and it's got the disc's. The welding i've got covered so now it's just the gearing and the front locker and in it goes. WOOHOOOOOO this summer is going to rock!!!

I have the xj44 and I was actually thinking of selling it and building an 8.8 because you can get shafts for an 8.8 all day long and they do come with discs plus the money I would get for an xj44 would help pay for gears. If I found another xj44 I would grab it and sell it. If you are nice you can sell one for $250.