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extending wheelbase .... moving rear axle back via springs

Mr. Ninja

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Issaquah
Ok, did some searching, and I plan on doing some more, but I figured I'd see if anyone had some info on this.

It seems the general consensus is that the gas tank will be in the way when you're looking at 4"+ rear axle extension... I've heard flipping springs gets you around 5". I'm not looking at moving my tank, so more options.

Firstly, from what I can see, it seems you can get a good 2-3" back without really getting close to the tank, can anyone confirm this in a real life test?

Secondly, I'm thinking finding some springs that are longer will be the best option here. Redrilling the centering pin hole or moving my spring plates forward isn't too appealing due to an increase in axle wrap potential. I've heard late model Ford ranger leafs may be the ticket here, giving that 2-3" of rear extension, and being about 4" longer, which is fine, as that would probably help my shackle angle right now. To anyone who has done this, or knows more about it than I, what kind of lift do those ranger leafs give you? What years/models would I be looking at specifically? Or is this just a pipe dream? Same questions regarding Dakota leaves.

Third: Driveshafts... Anyone heard of a donor driveshaft with proper U-joints (assuming a SYE has been done) that could be pulled at the local yard? Or is it crazy to think such things?

All said and done I think this could be a reasonably inexpensive way of extending the rear assuming the proper parts could be found. It'd be nice to see what kind of info/research people have out there. You may also be asking "why bother with so much work for just a few inches?" Well, it helps recenter the wheel in the fender after trimming in some cases, in others it helps prevent having to start carving into the rear door to clearance for bigger tires, not to mention, even though its a few inches, those inches can make a noticeable difference on your departure angle. Plus, "all that work" may not be the case if its simply throwing on some new leaves and a different d-shaft.

Thanks for any and all insight. :yelclap:
 
Redrilling the centering pin hole or moving my spring plates forward isn't too appealing due to an increase in axle wrap potential.

That's what I did: redrilled the hole in the springplate to move it back (not forward (?)) about an inch and a half. (As for space, I'm nowhere near the tank, I bet you could do 3" without a problem.)

I have some axle wrap, but I don't think it's really much worse than before.

And it was a lot easier/simpler/cheaper than swapping leaves.

Robert
 
wouldnt that change pinion angle? or is it not farv enought to throw it far off?

Well, I did it the same time I swapped axles. So while I did have to add shims, I'm pretty sure it was just because of the different housing.

I mean, it was only 1-1/2".

Robert
 
I wonder if there would be an issue with strength redrilling further back... Would the springs have more potential to crack near the hole... Or is it really not that big of a deal?
 
I wonder if there would be an issue with strength redrilling further back... Would the springs have more potential to crack near the hole... Or is it really not that big of a deal?

I didn't redrill the springs, I drilled the spring plate. That'll limit you to just a couple inches, unless you fab up a longer plate. Wouldn't be a big deal, it's just 1/4" plate...

Robert
 
then how does that move the axle back? cuz the pin goes through the leaves and sits in the little indentation on the spring perch...

The tops of my spring perches were essentially hollow. There is a "collar" (more or less) for the pin to sit in, but there's also a void on either side of it (fore and aft.)

I just dropped the pin into the forward void, so it would align with the new offset hole in the spring plate.

I guess I should have drawn a picture, I haven't explained it especially well...

Robert
 
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