Best way to put bearing into idler pulley

Hallo Jeepers.
I want to replace the bearing of the idler pulley.
Bearing 6203-2RS 17-14 mm 12 mm thick.
Someone did this before? Heating up and press? :shhh:

Yeah, if you search, you'll find it's been before. Don't know what shipping would be but Rock Auto carries the complete new part for about $15. Most people would just buy the whole thing new. But if you want to just do the bushing, you can. I guess I'd heat it up in boiling water to keep from getting it too hot. Your's is plastic isn't it? Most plastics expand pretty much with heat. If you have a press, you're all set. Or you could even do it in a vise using a big socket for a pocket for the bearing to go out, and a small socket to push it out.

its easier to just buy a whole new pulley. not to expensive and it'll save you time and effort.

if you must replace it, i would freeze the bearing for a few hours so it will compress and it may slide into a heated pulley when ready.

reelbigdundy87 said:

its easier to just buy a whole new pulley. not to expensive and it'll save you time and effort.

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look at his location. buying a new pulley may not be as easy and cheap where he is located....as it is here

Thanks IntrepidXJ for watching my expenses.
An idler pulley in Holland is about 30 Euros. But the quality is horrible.
Last year I bought one from Crown with a dry bearing!
A bearing from SKF or FAG costs only 7 euros. LOL. :laugh3:

p.s. Winterbeater my pulley is not a plastic one, but steel, so safe to heat.

Freeze the bearing, warm the pully, I used a vise to push it together (no press at home).

I agree. Why pay $15 for the whole pulley when the bearing itself is under $2 mail order? I bought a set of 10 for $15 shipped and have replaced a whole bunch of idler pulley bearings. Its the same bearing on Nissan Frontiers too. It takes maybe 5-minutes. Saving $20 for a few minutes of effort is worth it in my book.

It's not a very tight fit and I don't think heat or freezing is a necessity. I have a press, but I've also done it with a hammer and socket, as well as using a large bolt and washer. Just make sure you note the alignment of the old bearing and get the new one in about the same depth.

How do you figure out what size you need for the bearing. I probably have 4 or 5 old ones around and might consider doing this.

I have done it both ways, heating and vice, and press.
Press is easier of course but when i am not at work i use the heat and vice method which works quite well also.

For RENIX, I know the idler pully takes a Timken #203FF bearing - I'd imagine later models would be similar (having the part number from one vendor should give you the ability to cross-index with whoever is local to you.)

Installation is easy - I've done it in the space of about two minutes with a vice and all parts at room temperature. There isn't much interference fit there, so heating/cooling isn't really necessary. I do suggest lubricating the outer shell of the bearing when you change it - I used never-seez, but any quality grease would work as well (makes it easier to install, and makes it easier to remove later.)

You will need a socket that is just about the same size as the outside of the bearing or a bit smaller (or a small section of metal rod, or a short bit of pipe) to get the thing started. You'll also want a fairly large socket to receive the old bearing and give you something to "push into" so you have room to get the bearing out.

Yes, replacement assemblies can be had over here - but it was two minutes' extra work to do, and $3 for the bearing vice $15 for the pully. I put that extra $12 to better use elsewhere. (What can I say? I'm a Scot!)

RichP said:

How do you figure out what size you need for the bearing. I probably have 4 or 5 old ones around and might consider doing this.

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Might just have to measure yours. I know for the Renix and OBDI engines its a very common 6203-2RS bearing. Also used heavily in electric motors and ATV wheel bearings. Or as Jon mentioned Timken/BCA/National part number 203FF. 17mm ID, 40 mm OD, 12 mm width. The 6203 indicates the sizing and the -2RS means rubber seals on both sides. Don't get the -ZZ metal shields as they are not as dust proof. Also watch out that some sites sell 6203 bearings with a non-standard 5/8 or 3/4 ID bore which is not what you want.

VXB.com is the vendor I've used in the past. Their eBay listings are a little cheaper than their website. I just eBayed some bearings from them for the vacumn cleaner, which oddly enough are the exact same size as skate board bearings. I got the set of 8 cuz it was only $2 more than ordering just the pair I need.

Thank you for all respons. I bought a NTN 6203 LU bearing. Made in Japan and coming from Canada. LOL
I will press it in the pulley this weekend.
p.s. LU=2RS
some info:http://www.gizmology.net/bearings.htm

'92 XJ