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hazard issue

2

2000bluexj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Mass
When I put on my hazards, The left blinker light comes on on the dash solid, the left front light comes on solid and the ret dont. Could this be a relay of flasher relay?
 
I have the same issue on my '00 XJ...it is probably the switch. If you wiggle it or turn it on and off a few times, it might start working on both sides...
 
It is the turn signal switch inside the steering column. About $75 at a dealership. Not hard to replace. Common problem on '97+

Has happened on both my '99s.
 
The drivers side works as well as the light on the dash. Turn signals work as well. So, its the hazard switch? How do I test that theory to make sure its that?
 
Turn signals and hazard are all contained in the "multi-function" switch. The flasher unit it the same for both, so it can't be that. The wires leaving the switch are the same for turns and hazards, so it's gotta be the switch. Try turning it on and off 20 or 30 times to see if it starts working again.
 
Is there any way to just turn it on and test the continuity in the switch? I do have the FSM right here, and it says to test the continuity in the switch using an ohmmeter which i dont have. I do have a continuity tester, could I use that?
 
The others are probably right.

However, you could attack it as if it is a resistance issue, i.e., like a burnt bulb. Try pulling the bulbs an cleaning the sockets, switch the bulbs left/right. If you get a change in the problem then it might not be the $75 switch.

HF has digital multimeters $3.99.
 
You could believe us, when we tell you it is the switch, having had the exact same problem, with one side coming on, and not the other. There are multiple degrees of malfunction. I first noticed mine when I would get a phone call every once and a while from friends driving behind me saying my flashers were on, when I really had the blinker on (doesn't always happen with a bad switch). Mine then started with one side blinking, then both sides stopped blinking, and I had to wiggle the switch to get them to come on, while the blinkers worked perfectly fine. Then I progressed to having to wait over 5 minutes with the switch on before anythign started blinking. I took the the switch apart, cleaned up the contacts and terminals, and everything worked fine for a while. Then the hazards stopped, and I could no longer blink left, as the hazards would come on when I put the left blinker on. I replaced the switch, and haven't had a problem since.
 
Mark, Thanks for the suggestions. I just want to make sure its the switch and not something cheap. Just trying not to watse money i dont really have. I will go play with a switch a little, and will prob end up buying one. Thanks again
 
You definitely have the right idea by repeatedly asking about proving out the bad part. About half the people on here throw parts at their Heeps (wrong), the other half will not replace a part without proving it's wrong first (right). But is seems pretty clear from analyzing the wire diagrams (as well as anecdotal experience) that is is the MFS. The connections and wires are all common outside of the switch with the turn signals. Please let us know.
 
If your blinkers are fine, and you don't need to replace it just yet, then I'd wait and find someone parting out a '97+ and get a switch from them. Its a lot cheaper. Just check with them that the switch is working first. I got one for about $15 or so shipped.
 
joe_peters said:
The others are probably right.

However, you could attack it as if it is a resistance issue, i.e., like a burnt bulb. Try pulling the bulbs an cleaning the sockets, switch the bulbs left/right. If you get a change in the problem then it might not be the $75 switch.

HF has digital multimeters $3.99.
Click to expand...

Wouldn't the bulb issue show up in the turn signals, which he says work correctly?
 
Usually, but I have experienced strange things with modern electrics. The OP doesn't own a $3.99 multimeter, and is going to/has spent $75 on a switch to replace a switch that might not be the problem.

I guess I'm just plain cheap. If I used my multimeter to test the switch, and it tested bad, I might even try and force some CRC cleaner into the switch to try and raise it from the dead, before replacing it.

As I posted earlier, it probably is the switch.
 
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