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Need some advise after shackle relocation

bcmaxx

bcmaxx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
The West Kootenays,B.C. Canada
So I have an 89 4dr with rubicon express 4.5 inch lift and stock rear shackles. I installed hd shackle relocation kit yesterday (a fine product) but to get the desired shackle angle, the shackles hit the relocation bracket. If I set them so they are straight up and down they dont hit and the ride is pretty good. I can use an extra inch to an inch and a half in the rear to compensate for my tools,trail gear. What do you recommend? a longer shackle? like a chevy shackle and maintain the straight up and down, or a longer shackle and move it ahead in the relocation bracket?
 
I would go with a boomerang style shackle.

Check RE, TnT, etc...
 
Longer shackles! I'm running the teraFlex 1.5 shackles with my relocation brackets. This is not a great shot but you can see my shackle angle and they are not hitting yet. I did move them back one more hole due to the weight that I carry on the trail in tools and spare parts but once it settles the angle is very close.

P1010660.jpg

1-09-2.jpg
 
Thanks all! went with longer shackles, Will post up an installed pic later
 
Dont have a before pic on hand, but I had re4.5 packs installed with stock shackles, so the ride was terrible and almost no flex or droop. Heres a couple pics after (please dont mock my yellow shocks-as they are temporary-haha) I am very impressed what a longer shackle and the brackets do for ride,comfort and flex.
full droop:
Picture025.jpg

Picture024.jpg


bad pic but almost fully compressed:
Picture023.jpg

Picture022.jpg
.
 
builder said:
Excellent droop! hows the uptravel can you stuff tire till it hits the bump stops?
Click to expand...


I have my bump stops set to hit when the springs are almost flat, just a little arch left, any further and the springs will not last very long. Thats the nice thing about having the proper shackle angle, you can rely more on droop and not worry so much about up-travel.
 
builder said:
Excellent droop! hows the uptravel can you stuff tire till it hits the bump stops?
Click to expand...
Thanks!Yup, bumps kick in before the shocks bottom. I have the bumps set for my 33's so thats why theres room left in those pics (winters).
 
looks good and i bet it rides way better! before my leaf swap/ stretch i had the RE 4.5, RE shackle and the relocation brackets sealed the deal... totally different ride

oh and what material / plastic is your side sliders made out of?
 
aparke4 said:
looks good and i bet it rides way better! before my leaf swap/ stretch i had the RE 4.5, RE shackle and the relocation brackets sealed the deal... totally different ride

oh and what material / plastic is your side sliders made out of?
Click to expand...

lets just say "night and day is an understatement"
high density plastic, what they use for hocky board's in arena's available in white or black
 
bcmaxx said:
lets just say "night and day is an understatement"
high density plastic, what they use for hocky board's in arena's available in white or black
Click to expand...

haha yeah no doubt! they really make the RE packs come alive - for some reason with a lifted xj the shackle angle goes up and down ... i guess it is due to the same length main leaf but more arc in packs - but yeah the RE leafs are MUCH better after getting the proper angle

thanks for the info on the plastic - is yours 1/8 inch? i would think 1/4 might be too much just to put over sheet metal
 
aparke4 said:
haha yeah no doubt! they really make the RE packs come alive - for some reason with a lifted xj the shackle angle goes up and down ... i guess it is due to the same length main leaf but more arc in packs - but yeah the RE leafs are MUCH better after getting the proper angle

thanks for the info on the plastic - is yours 1/8 inch? i would think 1/4 might be too much just to put over sheet metal
Click to expand...

I went 1/4 inch, I have way too many fasteners inthere also. Was just planning on the quarters and then I did the doors, kinda had to carry on the pattern I started. I talked to the guy at the plastic place I got the material and he said ideally the hole should be larger than the fastener (rivet) to allow for expansion and contraction. I had some cracking this winter when it was really cold. The stuff is under $100 a sheet and that'll do a jeep from the rear quarters to the fenders. So I dont mind replacing a panel here and there. It also worked great as a sound deadener.
 
sweet yeah the stuff is not cheap but i think it is well worth it - my jeep is already black so it will blend in... there are a couple companies around me that do industrial plastics so i am going to see if i can get a bunch of scrap and use it for various skids... if not i guess i will pony up and get a sheet...

thanks for the help!

bcmaxx said:
I went 1/4 inch, I have way too many fasteners inthere also. Was just planning on the quarters and then I did the doors, kinda had to carry on the pattern I started. I talked to the guy at the plastic place I got the material and he said ideally the hole should be larger than the fastener (rivet) to allow for expansion and contraction. I had some cracking this winter when it was really cold. The stuff is under $100 a sheet and that'll do a jeep from the rear quarters to the fenders. So I dont mind replacing a panel here and there. It also worked great as a sound deadener.
Click to expand...
 
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