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LP dana 30, lock-right & 35" tires

you are right, i managed to brake shaft with 33's
and since I always cary extra shafts
plus i welded U-joint caps (did not welded all around just tacked them
at one spot)
so just wondered how 35's would hold up, cause I would rather
brake shaft then carrier

for now im planing to run stock steering and i have rubicon tierod
with 5.5" lift
 
I would be more concerned about the ring and pinion with the lp.
 
You have 3 choices.

1. Run stock axles & u-joints....and have lots of spares.

2. Run alloy shafts & stock u-joints....so when you do break. all you have to do is swap a u-joint.

3. Run alloy shafts & CTMs or super joints....and you mite break a R&P

BUT this is just from my experience:)
 
I had a LP 30, lock-rite, 4:56's, 33's.

I couldn't keep axles in it. Lots of carnage. One time I was crawling out of a river bed, up a 20' high steep hill withe lots of big roots... From slipping on the roots, I popped a u-joint and had to back down into the river. No big deal, right? WRONG! I was forced to cut the wheel to the right hard to avoid sliding into about 5-6 ft deep water. I did everything I could to avoid having to cut the wheel under power.. POW! Blew thew the whole hub assembly right of the axle with both ball joints. The only thing that held the wheel assem. on was the RK tie rod and brake line. I had to change both ball joints with the axle about 2 feet under water on a cold Sunday evening. Having to be a creative mechanic out on the trail is all part of the fun. But times like that, I must say, I'd rather avoid.

So now I've upgraded to narrowed D60's and 35's.. No more hastawith a LP D30.

But, I guess it really depends on your willingness to pass on an obstacle and the ability for your mind to control your right foot instead of your right foot controlling your mind.
 
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