Exterior LED upgrade question

Anyone run into issues when upgrading their rear brake/park/turn, front park/turn (3157s) with LEDs and their front side marker (168s) with LEDS.....basically all running lights with LEDs and not get them to work properly? I recently did this and when trying to use trun signals I get this weird humming/buzzing noise and they don't work. The signal indiactor on the intrument cluster shows a solid green arrow instead of blinking. Also, when turning them on either to have them on as parking lights or when using my headlights, the right side turn signal indicator stays on the whole time. When I try to use my hazards though, they all work.

Obviously, this is a voltage issue. I am assuming the LEDs are pulling lower voltage "as a whole" and it's seeing the load as a burned out light. Anyone use the flashers or load stabilizers from autolumination? Will this cure the problem?

Suggestions on how to recitfy this?

TIA

nevermind didn't see "turn signal"

you need a flasher module, get one from autozone they're pretty cheap

It's not voltage, it's resistance. The flasher relay works by having a certain resistance drawn, which is why it speeds up when you have a burnt out lamp.

Get a solid state flasher module (not sure on where, but I know they exist) and this will cure your problem, SS ones are not dependent on resistance down the chain.

thanks for the info. If I try to get one at vatozone, what should I be looking for, or are they universal? Aslo, embarrased to ask but do I need one or 2? I have a feeling they are located up under the driver side dash/steering wheel area, am I right?

I will also look for a solid state flasher module. can you explain why I need one of these instead of the SS ones? BTW, what are SS ones?

thanks, obviously I am a newbie when it comes to this and I was using "voltage" to simply identify the problem. Glad to know it is resistance.....again, I am not up to par on proper terms regarding wiring.

I've got all running lights converted to Led on my 96, the only problem I have is when I hit the brake with the hazards on it will freeze the hazard operation. The only thing I have done is the electronic flasher.

the flasher modules are the large round things in the fuse block on my 91, one is for turn signals, the other is for hazards. the hazards flasher is electronic already (so that emergency lights always work), while the signal flasher is just a fancy circuit breaker that heats up and cools down as current (draw) flows through it

pull one of them out and see if it's the turn signal flasher, if not pull the other. the modules are pretty much universal, there are like three or four generic types, and you need to match to the one you pull. they are less than $10 from what I remember

I pulled my modules and I have three of them and they are all identical (5 prong, part#56006709). I searched around and found these modules: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

http://usaled.com/?mainURL=/store/ca...12-14_5_V.html

http://www.v-leds.com/Shop/Control/...233236297226233236237236243246247240247250237

So technically with my (8) 3157 replacement LEDS (4 upfront for the turn/park lights and 4 in back...2 for the brakes and 2 for the turns), using one of these modules should solve the problem?

Input, anyone?

TIA

2001XJ said:

I pulled my modules and I have three of them and they are all identical (5 prong, part#56006709).

TIA

Click to expand...

That part number is actually a relay. You will have a few of those under there for various non flasher related stuff, so only one of them is the flasher. You'll just have to find out which one. You might be able to look at wire colors going to the relays and compare to a diagram that shows wire colors as to which one might be the flasher relay.

BB1980 said:

That part number is actually a relay. You will have a few of those under there for various non flasher related stuff, so only one of them is the flasher. You'll just have to find out which one. You might be able to look at wire colors going to the relays and compare to a diagram that shows wire colors as to which one might be the flasher relay.

Click to expand...

Okay, but since they are all the same with the same part numbers, does it matter? If I use any one of them (since they are all identical) as a cross reference shouldn't I be able to find a flasher module that replaces that part number and get it to work?

TIA

The following is from a Haynes manual:

1997 and later models
Remove the knee blocker from the instrument panel.
Reach through the left side of the steering column opening and disengage the retainer for the combination flasher electrical connector from the instrument panel diagnostics mounting bracket.
Pull out the combination flasher slightly, then unplug the flasher from the electrical connector. Remove the combination flasher.
Installation is the reverse of removal.

Does that sound like what you did?? There is a drawing, and it sure doesn't show three of anything.

Where did you pull those three parts from?

2001XJ said:

Okay, but since they are all the same with the same part numbers, does it matter? If I use any one of them (since they are all identical) as a cross reference shouldn't I be able to find a flasher module that replaces that part number and get it to work?

TIA

Click to expand...

You can use them as a cross reference with no problem, but only ONE of the three SOCKETS is for the flashers, so you need to find out which of the three. The other two are probably for stuff like: horn, wiper, rear defrost, etc. Follow his directions from his haynes manual /\ and see if only one of the sockets is in that location. That should be the flasher relay/socket.

I don't think those are the flashers- IINM, on the later models, the flasher is under the dash on the driver's side- on or near the column- hard to tell by the picture.

joe_peters said:

The following is from a Haynes manual:

1997 and later models
Remove the knee blocker from the instrument panel.
Reach through the left side of the steering column opening and disengage the retainer for the combination flasher electrical connector from the instrument panel diagnostics mounting bracket.
Pull out the combination flasher slightly, then unplug the flasher from the electrical connector. Remove the combination flasher.
Installation is the reverse of removal.

Does that sound like what you did?? There is a drawing, and it sure doesn't show three of anything.

Where did you pull those three parts from?

Click to expand...

OOps, I pulled them out from the pass. kickpanel fuse block. Guess I was completely on the wrong side....may bad, I will follow the above directions. I wondered why the modules would be over on the pass. side when I heard the noise/buzzing sound from the driver side dash.

alright, so I found the mechanical flasher module and replaced it with the electronic Tridon EP-27:

it is rated for 2-6 lamps and 162 watts MAX. I have seen posts where this solves the problem. I am still having problems though.

Here is the rundown:

Front: All 4 3157s have been upgraded to 32 LED bulbs
Front Sides: Both 168's have been upgraded to LED bulbs
Rear: All 4 3157's have been upgraded to the 32 LED bulbs

So I have a total of 10 LED bulbs.

-I installed all of them in place of the OEM ones and had my turn signal indicators in the
dash light up dimmly and stay on, like a burn out.
-I then replaced the mechanical flasher with the electronic module EP-27.
-I noticed that everything worked as far as blinkers and stop lights, except my right
blinker indicator was still dimmly lit up.
-I pulled that bulb and everything worked as it should except one bulb was missing from
the right grill parking light/running light housing
-I pushed the bulb all the way in and it lit but dimmly, when pulled out but barely still
making contact, it would light fully but not blink as it should

Now I am driving with all the LEDS in except one of the right front grill turn signals and they all work like they should EXCEPT:

-it is totally hit and miss but most of the time when I have my parking/running lights or headlights on as well, my blinkers will not work. They will light up the indicators and stay on. Sometimes, they do work though.

-when they do not work, the rear blinkers are staying on the whole time (but no indicator in the dash is lit up) I have to manually flash the turn signal arm up and down to get the blinkers in the rear to work (while doing this the front ones are not working AT ALL). Its like reverse function, they stay on, until I break the connection but like I said only the rears work, fronts stay lit but do not blink.

I have been e-mailing autolumination and they told me I have to install a 6 ohm/50 watt equalizer to EACH LED BLINKER. So according to that, that means that I would have 10 equalizers giving me 500 watts and my module is only rated for 162W, so I must be mistaken. Unless I can use their 5 watt equalizers which would be another 50 watt load?

Can any of you electro gurus look at the site and tell me what I need to order, I am getting mighty sick of this!!! Here is the page: http://autolumination.com/equalizers.htm

-

With LED's the resistance is a lot less than your typical bulb, hence why they do not use as much power. You need to wire in resistors in line with the LED's to have the correct resistance, otherwise the vehicle thinks that the connection is not there.

Deal with that flaky plug first, then see where you are. I'd also check Autozone for those resistor kits before I ordered them at $8 a whack.

Did you figure out a solution to your problem. I am having similar problems and did not want to install resistors as my build is an expedition rig and one of my goals is to conserve battery and fuel. Resistors would bring the amperage draw back to stock, and I was hoping using the electronic flasher (LED compatible) would fix that issue.

Ice_Man said:

Did you figure out a solution to your problem. I am having similar problems and did not want to install resistors as my build is an expedition rig and one of my goals is to conserve battery and fuel. Resistors would bring the amperage draw back to stock, and I was hoping using the electronic flasher (LED compatible) would fix that issue.

Click to expand...

No, not really. I forgot I made this thread so long ago. I actually purchased bulbs with built in resistors with mixed results ever since