Would finding a different XJ be the best idea?

Ok, so like most things I do in life I bought an XJ backwards:

Step 1: Buy XJ
Step 2: Learn about the XJ

I ended up with a 1999 with 153 on the clock equipped with:

Engine: 4.0 L
Transmission: AW4
Transfer Case: NP242 - "Selec-Trac"
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: Dana 35
Gears: 3.55

Now that I have done some reading, I realized that there are more desirable OEM setups out there, especially for someone like me who isn't going to turn this into a rock monster with huge lift and 35" tires. I'm basically going to build this to run greens & blues, and take camping and stuff.

With that said, my initial plan is to start small, S-10 bastard back, ZJ or F150 springs, 31" (trim if needed), which is fine for the current XJ I've got. BUT...knowing me I'm probably going to have this setup for a little while and want to go to 33"s. That being said, would it be worth my time and effort to fix the little querks (power window problem, funny idle problem, the tranny clunk from reverse to drive), and sell it (probably for a small profit) in order to find an XJ with:

Engine: 4.0 L
Transmission: AW4
Transfer Case: NP242 - "Selec-Trac"
Front Axle: Dana 30
Rear Axle: Chry 8.25
Gears: 3.73 (towing package)
Stock Armor (although I've heard mixed reviews on their durability)

I don't really know what greens and blues are. My 96 is mildly built. I'll be the first to admit that it's more than I need (4ish" and 31's). I end up doing some tricky (IMO) trails every now and again. I mostly wanted a built Jeep so that, in my explorations, I wouldn't be limited to where I could go as much. I have 3.55's but I do have an 8.25. I'm not sure that I'd be concerned with the gears. I'm looking to go 33's this Spring and I'll probably keep the gears the same for a while at least. I've heard bad things about the 35 rear but it would probably be fine for what I do. See what others say.

If you have the 35 in the rear you probably have ABS also but thats just a guess, 8.25's did not, at least thru 99.
You could look for something else, depends on how much you are willing to spend. Figuring it costs each time you change titles, registrations, inspections, sales taxes, etc, here that comes out to around $125 for each vehicle, more with taxes.
If you don't have abs then I would go for an 8.25 from a yard, 97+ years, get it home and put it on a cart then clean it up, take it apart, get it regeared and whatever traction device you plan on, do the disc brake conversion and set it aside, acquire the parts you want for the lift then have the front regeared to match the back but leave the front driveshaft out and keep it in 2wd. Then do it.
I've always preferred the SE model, swap idiot light cluster for gauges, has the NP231 which I prefer and the 5 speed which I also prefer. I've armoured mine, put an auburn in the 8.25, LT235 AT/KO's, front hooks, tomken rear bumper with tow point and stock height, fogs, good H4 E code Hella headlights. Takes me everywhere I want to go on easy trails but then I drive it daily and don't want stuff breaking so I'm pretty easy on it.
Kind of an annoying thing to think about isn't it

well the way ur talking the setup u have right now is great, u can alway swap in a diff later, but the D35 should be fine and the gears are great for towing, i have the basic setup in my 89 XJ, and its very versitile.

I have a 2 1/4" lift front( coil sprin spacers), and 2 3/4" lift back(basterd pack using chevy 3/4 ton springs(only three 3/4 ton, and two orugianal)
and the ride is still good. I have 235/48/15 AT and could fit 31 easily(i would think 33 also), i use mostly as a DD and haulin, i does see some trails and has gone farther on trails than by brothers 2002 Diesel 3/4 ton 4X4. My D35 rear has limited slip also, but the D30 front is open.


And the NP242 is a great transfer case, since it has true "full time 4X4" whitch is awsome, i wouldnt give it up, as for the NP231, if ur going mostly off road thats great but if ur going to grive it more keep the NP242.


............................And that all i have to say about that. said Forest Gump.

good post , u gave lots of info, that what we like splitz.

I'd definately hang on to the 242...I got one in my XJ and never thought i'd love it as much as I do. Sure is nice in the winter going from roads that arent plowed to roads that are or somewhat plowed and not having to switch in and out of 2wd and 4wd.

As far as the clunking from reverse to drive on the tranny, mine's done that since the day I got it. I've driven and rode in several others (ranging from early 90's to a 98) and they've all done it. I think it's cause the AW4 is a pretty stout tranny. FWIW my XJ had 62K on it when I got it january 2005, and it's should hit 85K this week.....used to work at a pizza place and delieverin pizzas racked up some miles on it, as well as commuting 240 miles round trip every weekend from school to home since august (plus where ever I go at home and at school) have put some miles on it too.

I've checked the fluid in the tranny and tcase and they both look fine...so i'm not too terribly concerned about it. I find that if you let it sit in neutral for about 1 or 2 seconds before hitting drive (rolling just a little bit also seems to help) eliminates the clunk. I'll admit it sounds horrible like something is getting ready to shatter into a million pieces, but I can't find anything wrong....unless somebody's got some suggestions as to what to check.

Thanks for the input guys.

Riverfever - Greens and blues are the easy and medium difficulty trails at Raush Creek Park. Isn't 4" overkill for 31"s? Would my tires get binded up on the trail if I used a S-10 bastard pack and XJ coils?

RichP - yeah, I know I could alway do the axle swap, but if I did that, I'd probably go with the ford 8.8" cuz it comes with disc brakes anyway

JeepDude & 99XJSport06 - I agree, I want to hang onto the 242; it definately give me the most flexability as far as terrain types go.

JeepDude - How do your 3/4 ton springs flex? Do you know if they are better than the S-10 springs?

99XJSPORT06 said:

I've checked the fluid in the tranny and tcase and they both look fine...so i'm not too terribly concerned about it. I find that if you let it sit in neutral for about 1 or 2 seconds before hitting drive (rolling just a little bit also seems to help) eliminates the clunk. I'll admit it sounds horrible like something is getting ready to shatter into a million pieces, but I can't find anything wrong....unless somebody's got some suggestions as to what to check.

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My rear driveshaft u-joint has a lot of play in it, and there is a horrible clunk when switching gears like you said. You could check it, but since your cherokee is 11 years newer than mine, i suspect its not the problem. Worth a check.

splitz said:

Thanks for the input guys.



JeepDude - How do your 3/4 ton springs flex? Do you know if they are better than the S-10 springs?

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i dont know how the S10 springs ride but the chevy 3/4 ton springs ride better than the originals saged out , the people i got it off put 4" shackles with saged out.