d30 hub removal...

Searched and printed every thread/how-to article under the sun, but one more question;

If I need to pound the heck out of the three 12 point 13mm bolts (using sacrificial ones) to remove the hub to do the front u-joints, will I necessarily destroy a perfectly good hub, be it the hub itself or the threads in the hub?

And should the 36mm axle nut stay on, if so, slightly loose or does it matter?

Can't afford to do hubs and u-joints at the same time, if I could I would just pound them off into oblivion and throw on new Timkens...

Thanks,

If you pound the heck out of those three bolts, you'll deform the bolt heads. I'd suggest you pick up some spare bolts, and beat on those. I don't think you'll damage the hub by doing that.

It's not necessary to remove the axle nut to do u-joints, but it would probably make it easier. I don't think it really matters if you want to leave it on.

I mentioned the sacrificial bolts in my post, but that got me thinking about deforming the female threads in the hub unit assembly...

Thanks,

Just make sure the bolts are threaded all the way through the hub so you have the max threads engaged you should be fine. Axle nut does not have to come off to remove hubs. Had mine apart yesterday, drivers hub came off on its own, passengers side the axle stayed with it. Didnt really make a difference. maybe a little easier to install with them separated but nothing to worry about. invest in some good penetrating oil. Of course your in NY so I'm sure you already have that. easy job, have fun.
Ryan

mikeny59 said:

Searched and printed every thread/how-to article under the sun, but one more question;

If I need to pound the heck out of the three 12 point 13mm bolts (using sacrificial ones) to remove the hub to do the front u-joints, will I necessarily destroy a perfectly good hub, be it the hub itself or the threads in the hub?

And should the 36mm axle nut stay on, if so, slightly loose or does it matter?

Can't afford to do hubs and u-joints at the same time, if I could I would just pound them off into oblivion and throw on new Timkens...

Thanks,

Click to expand...

the honest answer is yes, you might screw up the hubs. but it is unlikely. but if your u-joints ae worn out your hubs may not be far behind.

If you are using the slide hammer method. (which is through trial and error my favorite method) make sure you leave the axle nut on and torqued.

if you use the "buy sacrificial bolts and pound the heck out of them" method it is easier to at least loosen the axle nut while you have wheels on the ground. for this method I highly recommend the use of grade 5 sacrificial bolts. grade three just peen over and grade 8 spark and splinter and send chips everywhere.. it is also helpful the have a tractor store nearby. they sell all three flavors of bolts by the pound in nearly any size you could want.

there is another less popular method(and rightly so!) my uncle tought me using a cold chisel and three pound drilling hammer. it messes up your brakes shields and if you are not careful your hub and knuckles but it is fast. took me ten minutes per side with no pb blaster even. it allowed me to drive back out fourty odd miles of logging road and 800 miles or so home before yanking them out and doing it right.

in any event i can't stress enough the need for liberal and frequent application of penetrating lubricant. i love pb but you may have your own favorite.

lastly you should check the price of the whatever brand at you local autozone/advance/whatever. the last set i bought was only 65 apiece. just about half what i paid the time before that for timkens. it really is silly to pull all that apart and not do them unless you absolutely know they are good.

Locally (LI, NY) NAPA wants $210 per side, Auozone I think approx. $150 (Timkens).

I'm rebuilding the front end (and both d/s's) in anticipation of frequent ny/fl. road trips, and w/about 116k on my '98, don't want to get caught midpoint on I95 at the mercy of some no-name shop.

You're right, I should be replacing both the u-joints and bearings at the same time (and maybe having a set of d30 axle seals on hand) while everything's apart.

I guess I can wait another ten days until the next paycheck.

Thanks for that pov, makes more sense than my dd stranded on jackstands while running around looking for hubs...

Mike

the way you originally mentioned works great and has no ill side effects. use 3 sacrificial bolts (try to get them about 1/2" longer than the ones that are in there). as long as you make sure that you thread them in far enough to where the bolt starts coming out the front of the hub, you won't mess up the threads unless they where already gone.

i would recommend taking off the axle nut. it makes it easier to work with the axle shaft. if you take off the axle nut, and the axle slides with the hub as you start to remove it, just gently give a little tap to the end of the axle shaft where the nut was and it'll pop out of the hub.

once you master that technique, you can remove hubs in under 10 minutes. i've done it like that for a long time. i just did a guys u-joints yesterday, and he was amazed how easy it came out like that.

mikeny59 said:

Locally (LI, NY) NAPA wants $210 per side, Auozone I think approx. $150 (Timkens).

I'm rebuilding the front end (and both d/s's) in anticipation of frequent ny/fl. road trips, and w/about 116k on my '98, don't want to get caught midpoint on I95 at the mercy of some no-name shop.

You're right, I should be replacing both the u-joints and bearings at the same time (and maybe having a set of d30 axle seals on hand) while everything's apart.

I guess I can wait another ten days until the next paycheck.

Thanks for that pov, makes more sense than my dd stranded on jackstands while running around looking for hubs...

Mike

Click to expand...

which is why i was suggesting not using the timken brand. for me locally at the opposite end of nys timkens are 130 per side. the off brand were 68 apiece. with the amount of water crossing and muck and slush we get here in western new york, i always used to shell out for the timken name, I was broke when i needed to replace the ones on my white 89(dd) I used the off brand and have been happy since. you may still have to wait for the next paycheck, but that way you'll have enough left over for groceries

the seals aren't a bad idea either. it kinda depend on how things look whether i do them or not. And did i mention antisieze? if i didn't
antisieze, antisieze, antisieze, antisieze, antisieze, antisieze, antisieze, antisieze, antisieze.

holy cow. I just checked the off brand for your year is 138.

what is so different?

You got a compressor ? Snapon has this neat little kit with what I call blind sockets, you put a bit in an air chisel, put one of the blind sockets on [shallow socket, very shallow] and back the three bolts out about a half inch, put the chisel on one bolt and bzzzzzzzt about 2 seconds, move to the next one, same thing, just keep going round and backing the bolts out as the hub releases. Remember to grind/clean the surfaces on the parts, thin coat of copper anti-seize before reassembly. Worked like a champ on the TJ and that came from ct....
I'm going out to the my customers shop and I'll find out what the kit is called, it was pretty cheap too for snap-on... under $50 for the whole thing.

I've got a fair-sized compressor, I've also got a pneumatic palm hammer that I use mainly to nail those metal brackets that attach deck joists to headers, a carpentry tool.

I bet I can figure a way to let that do the hammering, wouldn't of though of it except being reminded I have a compressor.

In the meantime I'll see what non-Timkens cost, and brand names worth mentioning?

Thanks,

Don't go with the no-name brands. I did about a year ago. I T`ink I paid about $60 each. AndA just had to replace them yesterday. When I took the driver's side one off, there was a lot of play, which I t(lught w q the sNqrce of the annoying noise I've had for a while. Then I took the passenger ride`mne off. As soon as I removdd t(d rotor, thd hu assembly just fell apart.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v702/xjohn.xc/IMG_0147.jpgJ#IMG]

I repl `ed them with THeken units for $86 each. It's good to know the right people. :)

$86 Washingtons?!?!?!?!?

Geez, just change my user name to VILLAGE IDIOT for choosing to live on Long Island:hang:

It shouldn't be too bad on a 98.
I'd spray the hub at the knuckle with PB or similar and let it penetrate a bit.
I've used chisel once, it deformed the hub a little at the edge, no big deal.
A friend told me that there is another way to loosen it up. Back off the bolts and get the front end off the jack stands and on the ground, start the engine and turn the wheel left and right.
I never had to try it, it might work.

I found this at a tag sale close to 30 years ago. It has a special retainer spring, and the shaft of the hammer is threaded to go through it. I've never seen one quite like it since. Very handy little bammer. [/URL][/IMG]

By the way, I tried a palm nailer too. It has possibilities if you put a bolt in it, but the hole is pretty shallow, so the bolt will fall out. You need two hands, one on the nailer, and one (glove suggested) holding the bolt.

You could also use a wheel or an old brake rotor - put it on backwards, put the lug nuts on a bit (five or six turn should do, to get a good grab) and use it like a slide hammer.

I've not had much trouble with any I've pulled out - all pre-1990 vintage and OEM.

Suggestion - take a wire wheel to the mating surfaces of the bearing assembly and knuckle to remove any rust, then paint the surfaces with never-seez. Makes it much easier the next time...

NOTE - if you use never-seez on the bolts, you'll want to torque the retaining bolts to 37 pound-feet, and the hub nut to 92 pound-feet. If not, use 75 pound-feet and 195 pound-feet, respectively.

5-90

mikeny59 said:

I've got a fair-sized compressor, I've also got a pneumatic palm hammer that I use mainly to nail those metal brackets that attach deck joists to headers, a carpentry tool.

I bet I can figure a way to let that do the hammering, wouldn't of though of it except being reminded I have a compressor.

In the meantime I'll see what non-Timkens cost, and brand names worth mentioning?

Thanks,

Click to expand...

I used an air chisel between the hub & dust shield. It messed up the dust shield but popped the hub off pretty quick. JIM.

I do have a slide hammer, IIRC the 36mm nut stays on tight otherwise you'll frag the bearing in half, no?

mikeny59 said:

I do have a slide hammer, IIRC the 36mm nut stays on tight otherwise you'll frag the bearing in half, no?

Click to expand...

That pic you posted is pretty close to what warren has, the socket that I used looks similar but has no edges, it's round and shallow. The hitting of the hammer vibrates the thing apart and did NO damage to the bolts whatsoever.

I just hit it with a rubber hammer till it falls off, usually just takes a few really good whacks, I like the rotor as a slide hammer idea tho!