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Sheared off motor mount...but cracked part of block....pics

R

RickyN29

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Jose, California
I typed a whole thread....site lost it....

Long story short...look at the pics....what would you do?

Motor mount sheared off.....First thought no biggie...extract and replace. But they are not only all recessed and not coming out, one of them cracked the mating surface....

At this point...i'm thinking of, for the first time, dropping it off at a shop... I quit smoking (yay, go me) 18 days ago and this is just the sort of crap that drives me nuts. Oh, not to mention my other Jeep failed smog today and then overheated on the way home and left me stranded....

IMG_3453Medium.jpg


IMG_3449Medium.jpg


IMG_3450Medium.jpg


Thoughts....suggestions....ideas
 
Last edited:
That's some nastiness! :explosion

You could use a die grinder on that uneven mounting surface...then just use washers to space it out.

Or...since your going to take it in to get done, that could get quite expensive. Renix era blocks are a dime-a-dozen at the wreckers and on Craiglist. Just swap out an entire new(used) engine for cheap.
 
Wow, thanks guys. Those are both EXCELLENT ideas and they just might work. I will slot them tomorrow and try to get them out with a screw driver, if so, I will will either grind and space for the broke part, or perhaps try to build it up with JB weld.

How come I didn't find that thread in my searching?!?!?!

Off to bed....I hope I wake up to even more marvelous ideas!
 
A drill 90, a good power drill, and bolt extractors will be your best friend. Then just use the repair kit above. Be glad it didnt happen in the middle of nowhere. Soon as those bolts get loose it really doesnt take much at all to sheer them.
 
I had mine do the same thing. Used a reverse drill bit to tap it, then an easy out to back the studs out. My block also had a small chip in it, maybe not that big. I put it back together with grade 8 bolts and haven't had one problem with it. Been to Moab and beat on it too. :yelclap: I guess I should also add I had to unbolt the other motor mount. the cross memebr, and let the engine and trans sag enough to where i could get a drill in there. Once I got a drill in there, came out easy as pie.
 
Grrr.....so I went to Harbor Freight 3 times today (60 miles round trip each time!)

On my last stop, I picked up the nice and short 90 degree angle air drill.

However...just got home and thought..'how the heck to do you switch to reverse' (since I bought reverse drill bits and extractors...) It doesn't reverse....

I read in another thread someone got an air drill and HF and it worked wonders for this job......HOW??!?!?!?
 
Did you try cutting slots in the ends? It really worked like a miracle for me...

I just didn't see a way to get a drill in there...

Robert
 
Ive done this twice on my drivers side on the 99...

It takes ninja arms to get in there... and good ass drill bits

I tried a air drill drill but I found a low RPM high torque drill like my Hitachi (800 rpm) was best, so you dont just spin and burn out the bit, I still went through 3 titanium bits...

If you can, try the slot bit as Monkey is sayin, all mine were too recessed to do that, otherwise ida been all over it.
 
WrenchMonkey said:
Did you try cutting slots in the ends? It really worked like a miracle for me...

I just didn't see a way to get a drill in there...

Robert
Click to expand...

I am going to try it on one of them, but the other two are far too recessed.


ZacSquatch said:
I tried a air drill drill but I found a low RPM high torque drill like my Hitachi (800 rpm) was best, so you dont just spin and burn out the bit, I still went through 3 titanium bits...

If you can, try the slot bit as Monkey is sayin, all mine were too recessed to do that, otherwise ida been all over it.
Click to expand...

I do have a low RPM, high torque drill....I assume you lowered the engine to get at them though right? (
 
I have an idea for the broken block portion....any input appreciated...

Since it is just a little bit of material (and about 3 threads) broken off, I am thinking of filling it with JB Weld. My though is to dip a bolt in a thin layer of wax, screw it in until it lays flat (luckily there is still a small portion of the original mating surface left). Let it cure, and then remove the bolt and go about the repair as usual.

I figure the JB weld will act simply like a spacer to make the bracket mounting flush flat again. Does that make sense?
 
RickyN29 said:
I am going to try it on one of them, but the other two are far too recessed.




I do have a low RPM, high torque drill....I assume you lowered the engine to get at them though right? (
Click to expand...

Nope, I had 6 inch lift to work with though,plenty of room above the axle. Luckily I only sheared the two bottum bolts, the top one had just backed out...
 
RickyN29 said:
I have an idea for the broken block portion....any input appreciated...

Since it is just a little bit of material (and about 3 threads) broken off, I am thinking of filling it with JB Weld. My though is to dip a bolt in a thin layer of wax, screw it in until it lays flat (luckily there is still a small portion of the original mating surface left). Let it cure, and then remove the bolt and go about the repair as usual.

I figure the JB weld will act simply like a spacer to make the bracket mounting flush flat again. Does that make sense?
Click to expand...

I would use that as a temp fix... but I would strongly suggest buying a set of engine brackets that cover more holes..
 
ZacSquatch said:
Nope, I had 6 inch lift to work with though,plenty of room above the axle. Luckily I only sheared the two bottum bolts, the top one had just backed out...
Click to expand...
Hum, I'm on a 6 inch also...but it's not even close to accessible from underneath. The bolts point right at the unibody frame rail....about 4 inches of space there.

Very odd. I'll take a look at it tomorrow...maybe I am just losing my mind. I've been working doubles...16hrs.
 
i would not trust jb weld for something like that. i would just grind it flat with a die grinder and then use graded washers to make it back to the original height. jb is just an epoxy and is not nearly as strong as some make it out to be
 
Oh, and just because it is hard to believe... get this..

Driving white jeep..motor mount broke. Walked home, got Green Jeep to go get some parts and tools...on the way, green jeep overheats and pops the coolant bottle...

Walk home, get the VW (my DD) to go get parts to fix the white and green jeeps...VW breaks down. (not getting spark). Walk home....cry a little...ask 'why god, why' and then take the bus to work.

3 cars break down in 1 day. And I actually take real good care of them. Highly maintained.
 
You live in CA, gawd frowns upon yee
 
you could try welding a nut to it or you may be able to cut it out with a torch. I heard that you can cut broken off header bolts from cylinder heads with a torch cause it will not cut through the cast steel. it works on cylinder heads, but not sure about a engine block, maybe somebody else will chime in.
 
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