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Sanden SD7H15 1998

Harlee&Tahoe

NAXJA Forum User
Bearing is shot and pulley chewed through clutch also field coil.
I have removed clutch plate and pulley bearing inner race still on shaft.
I don't want to replace compressor, since it worked just fine before bearing went.
How do you remove field coil?
Where can I get a new clutch assy.?
All I've found is slightly less in price than whole compressor.

I'm trying to get this done for my little brother before he returns from Iraq.:patriot:
 
it is soooooo much cheaper and easier to just replace the entire compressor. I had my bearing go out on my a/c compressor on my 98. I bought a used one off of ebay for $40 shipped.

i ended up finding another pulley/clutch assembly at the junkyard, installed it on my old compressor and sold it back on ebay for $40 shipped. I tried just doing the bearing at first (which costs $40 anyway) and was a suuuuuper PITA.

just replace the compressor or the pulley/clutch assembly and save yourself the headache.
 
Thank you 8Mud, this gives me some hope it looks like it can be done
jeepster_259 how is it cheaper with more expensive replacement, recovery, and refill? I think I'm going to try to replace the clutch assy.

If I can get the right tools for the job and gain Exp. while doing it for less than taking it in, I'd like to save him the money.

This is what it looks like
11.3 Clutch Slippage Pg. 29 of 30
The compressor clutch is simply two friction surfaces forced together, like a set of brakes.
Each time the clutch is engaged some amount heat is generated.
If the engagements occur rapidly or the system voltage is to low, excessive heat created will cause failure of bearing seals and or melting of the field coil epoxy.


If you can let me in on some tricks, or how you did it (what tools were used and how)

Does anybody have any of the required tools I can borrow, I'll pay for the shipping?
 
Last edited:
REMOVAL
(1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative
cable.
(2) Remove the serpentine drive belt. Refer to
Group 7 - Cooling System for the procedures.
(3) Unplug the compressor clutch coil wire harness
connector.
(4) Remove the four bolts that secure the compressor
to the mounting bracket.
(5) Remove the compressor from the mounting
bracket. Support the compressor in the engine compartment
while servicing the clutch.
(6) Insert the two pins of the spanner wrench
(Special Tool C-4489) into the holes of the clutch
plate. Hold the clutch plate stationary and remove
the hex nut (Fig. 20).
(7) Remove the clutch plate with a puller (Special
Tool C-6461) (Fig. 21).
(8) Remove the compressor shaft key and the
clutch shims.
(9) Remove the external front housing snap ring
with snap ring pliers (Fig. 22).
(10) Install the lip of the rotor puller (Special Tool
C-6141-1) into the snap ring groove exposed in the
previous step, and install the shaft protector (Special
Tool C-6141-2) (Fig. 23).
(11) Install the puller through-bolts (Special Tool
C-6461) through the puller flange and into the jaws
of the rotor puller and tighten (Fig. 24). Turn the
puller center bolt clockwise until the rotor pulley is
free.
(12) Remove the screw and retainer from the
clutch coil lead wire harness on the compressor front
housing (Fig. 25).
(13) Remove the snap ring from the compressor
hub and remove the clutch field coil (Fig. 26). Slide
the clutch field coil off of the compressor hub.
 
Thanks ebishop, pretty much like what 8mud posted as well the updated version in my previous post.11.3 Clutch Slippage (clicky)

Anyone have personal detailed account using real world tools from the tool bag?
Or have the special tools needed or have a place to buy?

Where's Rick Anderson?
 
it is a lot cheaper to just replace the compressor. Like I said, I did it for $40, rented a vacuum pump from autozone (free) and spent about $15 on new refrigerant to recharge it. So $55 and 30 min. time or who knows how much and how long it will take you to replace the clutch.
 
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