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Is there a full circle clips how to?

IslanderOffRoad

IslanderOffRoad

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Houston, Tx
I searched and found alot of info on what clips to use, but how does one modify stock shafts to get these in?
 
I've done it to mine using a dremel, but then brought my spares to someone at a local shop that had a chop saw to get it done MUCH quicker.

You basically grind away at the part of the ear that keeps the c-clip from seating flush against the thin part of the ear (the part closest to the shaft itself), being careful not to grind into the thin part of the ears (where the u-joint cap sits).

I took some pics when I did mine, let me see if I can find them.

EDIT: Alright so I must have deleted the pics. But your goal is to get the c-clip to sit flat all the way around. So grind away until it does, but grind flat against the ear along the same axis as the shaft itself so you don't dig into the part of the ear where the u-joint cap sits.

Sorry, I suck at explaining things but it's a really simple upgrade and well worth it.
 
Last edited:
The difference is really in the insides of the ears. I suppose you could just remove material from the rear surface until you have enough room for the clip. It shouldn't take too much.

Or, if you are really worried and never want to have an axle ear related failure again, you could buy an alloy axle that is made to take circle clips from the factory. I bought a Yukon drivers side a while back and have been very satisfied. Came with inner, outer, Spicer 760 joint and clips.
 
Zuki-Ron said:
The difference is really in the insides of the ears. I suppose you could just remove material from the rear surface until you have enough room for the clip. It shouldn't take too much.

Or, if you are really worried and never want to have an axle ear related failure again, you could buy an alloy axle that is made to take circle clips from the factory. I bought a Yukon drivers side a while back and have been very satisfied. Came with inner, outer, Spicer 760 joint and clips.
Click to expand...


I dont have the money for alloys at the moment.
 
When I ran Spicers I tack welded the u-joint caps to the ears.

When any part of it breaks, it's all junk anyway.
 
Phil said:
When I ran Spicers I tack welded the u-joint caps to the ears.

When any part of it breaks, it's all junk anyway.
Click to expand...

I also don't have a welder.
 
You could just run them up to a muffler shop and you could have them do it for you. They probably wouldn't charge you much if anything.
 
I had a couple of write-ups bookmarked then deleted them in a review since it looked so simple. Just use an angle grinder to enlarge the ear lobes so that a full-circle clip can snap on (a cutting disc can be used to nibble, and a grinding wheel can finish the job). Then put the clips on the shoulder of the u-joint, install the u-joint as normal, and pull the clips off the shoulder of the u-joint onto the back of the cap.
 
Sponge Bob said:
external snap rings that are sold at hardware stores. take a old cap with you and find 1 that will fit
Click to expand...

Gotta make sure it's a good fit, too, and not sloppy. Too sloppy and the cap won't sit where it's supposed to. Saw a lot of them fail that way. ;) The fix was a bazillion thin thrust washers in a specific thickness to fit inside each cap...making them stand off the joint cross enough to snug up the cap/circle.
 
ECKSJAY said:
Gotta make sure it's a good fit, too, and not sloppy. Too sloppy and the cap won't sit where it's supposed to. Saw a lot of them fail that way. ;) The fix was a bazillion thin thrust washers in a specific thickness to fit inside each cap...making them stand off the joint cross enough to snug up the cap/circle.
Click to expand...
please tell me more! I dont know why but I been through a few u -joints including the stock alloy usa that came with the axles. After a few runs the get play in them (not rotational play) can this be shimmed out somehow?
 
bcmaxx said:
please tell me more! I dont know why but I been through a few u -joints including the stock alloy usa that came with the axles. After a few runs the get play in them (not rotational play) can this be shimmed out somehow?
Click to expand...

If you think about it, it works the same way a stretched yoke would work. I don't remember the thickness (and all the kits my old boss built are gone) but it solved the problem. No more crosses moving back and forth after being installed.

The issue was that the full circle clips provided weren't thick enough. They were some off the shelf clips that were thinner than the original Spicer 'half' clips. IIRC, when the boss put the kits together he had to order some retarded number like 10k minimum on the shims. :laugh2: They were selling the kits to other shops and stuff. It was several years ago that they did it...I'm just surprised nobody has caught on to it yet.
 
ECKSJAY said:
If you think about it, it works the same way a stretched yoke would work. I don't remember the thickness (and all the kits my old boss built are gone) but it solved the problem. No more crosses moving back and forth after being installed.

The issue was that the full circle clips provided weren't thick enough. They were some off the shelf clips that were thinner than the original Spicer 'half' clips. IIRC, when the boss put the kits together he had to order some retarded number like 10k minimum on the shims. :laugh2: They were selling the kits to other shops and stuff. It was several years ago that they did it...I'm just surprised nobody has caught on to it yet.
Click to expand...
makes perfect sense, what application were the shims for? u-joints?Mine just start making a knocking noise when its time to change them. They never have any normal play just cross play.
 
bcmaxx said:
makes perfect sense, what application were the shims for? u-joints?Mine just start making a knocking noise when its time to change them. They never have any normal play just cross play.
Click to expand...

If you take a cap off, look inside...you see the 'race' portion machined? The shim was the diameter of the inside of the cap, same size as the end of the cross. They had a hole in the middle to match the grease hole of the shaft. It just snugged things up.

If anyone is reading this and confused, my disclaimer was to check the thickness of any circle clips you use. This may have been taken care of, but it was an issue ~9-10 years ago when 'we' first started installing the shafts machined for full circles. Under load, the excess play inside each cap allowed the yoke ears to flex slightly (yeah, even on the street...these are unibearing Jeeps we had the problem with) and the joints would wear out. They weren't breaking, but they had odd wear. Once the shims were installed it wasn't an issue again.
 
I can't answer that directly Ecksjay, but I do know I had zero play in my u-joints after doing this. I used c-clips from Yukon my local shop had. Looked to be the same thickness as the spicer half-clips, but I didn't measure them or anything.
 
There's a very cheap redneck "fix" to help avoid the stock snap rings popping out. When you install your new u-joints, clean the yoke ends and cap exterior surfaces very well both pre and post assembly. Use a bit of solvent on a rag or Q-Tip to make sure there's no grease in the external groove, the stock clip, and corresponding yoke surface. Once it's clean and degreased, apply a moderate amount of Super-Glue into the groove immediately prior to snapping in the stock clip. This will help prevent the clip from popping out and the cap from walking around in the yoke. The Super-Glue will release and allow for disassembly when it's time to remove the clips, but in my experience holds up pretty well while it's in there under service. I used to lose a fair number of clips and wallow out a shaft now and again, since I started Super-Gluing the clips in it hasn't been an issue.

Of course, if you run your u-joints down to where the needle bearings are toast and allow for play, you will toss clips regardless. If they're greasable, hit them at least every other run. If they're non-serviceable, make sure they have plenty of grease at install and the seals are in good condition.
 
Phil said:
When I ran Spicers I tack welded the u-joint caps to the ears.

When any part of it breaks, it's all junk anyway.
Click to expand...
My early Bronco used to spit the clips on the front joints all the time (it was upgraded to cut down 3/4 ton D44 shafts way before alloy shafts were available) and instead of tack welding the caps, I tack welded the clips and have never had a problem since. I do pay attention to where the wheels are pointed when giving it the pedal though, as I have broken joints before........sometimes I hate that front locker!---------Hans
 
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