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97 water pump inlet tube....

xj88superjeep

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NJ
WHAT A PITA TO GET OFF OF THE OLD PUMP!!! Who's the genius that decided not to make this part included with the new pump? I'd like to PUNCH him in the face right now!!!! No one would gripe about paying an extra 6 bucks for a pump so they didn't have to fight with this thing... It's just STUPID that it's not included AND its even MORE stupid that it's NOT EVEN FOR SALE at a parts store!!!!
 
I do agree, although the dealership does sell it...most likely will need to order though.

You can get a regular barb fitting that will thread into the water pump and just get a longer heater hose, although make sure it doesn't kink at the 90 degree bend the hose will have to make (which is why they put the longer metal tube there, so the rubber heater hose doesn't have to make that angle turn)
 
There is no way that is really "better" than replacing it with a new one. The whole point is that they should be sold as a part included with the pump, or at least offered by the store that sells the pumps, since EVERYONE knows you would rather replace it than cuss and bitch and fawk with getting the old corroded POS off of the old one!!!
 
Anyone planning on doing thier water pump, heed this advice... Order the water pump inlet tube from rockauto, or the dealer, or wherever you can get it BEFORE you start, because they don't sell it at the parts store... (NAPA might, but they are infamous for "you can pick it up tomorrow")
 
There is no way that is really "better" than replacing it with a new one. The whole point is that they should be sold as a part included with the pump, or at least offered by the store that sells the pumps, since EVERYONE knows you would rather replace it than cuss and bitch and fawk with getting the old corroded POS off of the old one!!!

I forgot to remove that piece after I had arleady removed my water pump. Tried driving on it with another car to keep it in place while I used a large adjustable wrench on the tube. Didn't work.

Luckily a friend had a large vice that came in handy...not too long before the tube was off. I think I sanded it and then painted it, been holding up since fall 2006.
 
Or just get a brass pipe nipple at the hardware store - it should be threaded 3/8" NPT.

Smear some RTV on the outside of the pipe nipple to help the hose seal, and you'll (ideally) want to cut the threads off one end and deburr before installing on the pump.

(You can also use galvanised iron, but it will rust just like the OEM steel nipple. Brass lasts longer...)
 
No vice :( So I PB blasted, heated, whacked with hammer, stood on it, repeated steps about 4 times, and finally budged it and proceeded to pull a muscle in my neck and shoulder while standing on it in a squatting position and wrenching with one hand and steadying it and holding my balance with the other... Cussing the whole time, and the thing fought me every second that it turned!
 
Or just get a brass pipe nipple at the hardware store - it should be threaded 3/8" NPT.

Smear some RTV on the outside of the pipe nipple to help the hose seal, and you'll (ideally) want to cut the threads off one end and deburr before installing on the pump.

(You can also use galvanised iron, but it will rust just like the OEM steel nipple. Brass lasts longer...)

I don't want to re-invent the wheel, I just think it's silly that the part is something that isn't supplied with the new pump. It's not really a design flaw issue, although brass is ideal, I just wanted to replace the thing and could not, and I think that is just moronic.
 
I don't want to re-invent the wheel, I just think it's silly that the part is something that isn't supplied with the new pump. It's not really a design flaw issue, although brass is ideal, I just wanted to replace the thing and could not, and I think that is just moronic.

Believe me, I'm not arguing!

But, if I've got to buy the part separately ("reinvent the wheel," as you put it,) I'm damned well going to buy something better if I can find it!

And, if you peruse the plumbing section at your local, you might find "internal cam wrenches" for pipe nipples - I've had good luck using those on water pump heater feeds, and I use them on quite a few other plumbing projects as well. They're most typically a set of three (1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" pipe) for fairly cheap, fit inside the pipe and cam against it, and you turn them with whatever wrench you have handy (they have hex shanks. So, you can use a crescent, pipe, Stilson, socket, breaker bar, ... - whatever is handy.)
 
True, I upgrade whenever I can, and it would be easier to remove a pump with just a nipple on it, but then I would need to fab up the bend outta something too... maybe a future project, or maybe I just wish I'll never have to do a water pump again... (yeah right!) LOL
 
Get a grip. They're available elsewhere if you bother to look around.

http://www.teamcherokee.com/AC_and_Heating/index.html


Learn to read, I said they aren't available at a parts store... duh,do duhhhh~~

AND, I'm not saying you can't get them, I said they should be sold with the part since it is something you would want to replace with the part... You should read the whole thread before assuming things.
 
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Next you'll be whining about not getting hoses or belts with them. There's a lot your local "parts store" doesn't carry.
 
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Which is why I tend to source parts from some odd places (hardware store, marina supply house, ...)

Maybe the local doesn't have it, but I can usually scare up something at least as good - if not better - somewhere else with a little looking.

If you get highly motivated, you can go nuts and replace the whole heater hose setup with copper - the picture on my site should be working fine, if you want to see how something like that would work (it's on a RENIX, I've added a hard tap for a garden hose to backflush, and the valve you see is there to force reverse coolant flow when backflushing without having to crimp a hose. The whole thing is nailed in with 5" vibration stubs between metal fittings, but I need to refine the design a bit.) Sweating copper isn't hard, once you get some practise - I think I fabbed that up in 30 or 40 minutes one day, but not with a good deal of precision. Still, it's close, and it's cheaper than using all of those moulded right-angle hoses.

I even made the new nipple from the water pump - used a pipe thread-to-sweat adapter, then sweated the rest of it together. Make it up into a right-angle bend, so I don't have a rubber hose running anywhere near the back edge of that idler pully (which I really didn't like!) and don't need a right angle there, either.
 
Next you'll be whining about not getting hoses or belts with them. There's a lot your local "parts store" doesn't carry.
I shouldn't let you piss me off, because I realize that's all you're trying to do, but you deserve what I'm about to say... If you were smart enough to put two thoughts together, you would already know that this is more than just a rant, it is a warning to people who might not know that the part has to be ordered seperately... But since you are more interested in trolling and pissing people off than actually helping people, you must have been too distracted to think straight... if you actually do think...
 
Which is why I tend to source parts from some odd places (hardware store, marina supply house, ...)

Maybe the local doesn't have it, but I can usually scare up something at least as good - if not better - somewhere else with a little looking.

If you get highly motivated, you can go nuts and replace the whole heater hose setup with copper - the picture on my site should be working fine, if you want to see how something like that would work (it's on a RENIX, I've added a hard tap for a garden hose to backflush, and the valve you see is there to force reverse coolant flow when backflushing without having to crimp a hose. The whole thing is nailed in with 5" vibration stubs between metal fittings, but I need to refine the design a bit.) Sweating copper isn't hard, once you get some practise - I think I fabbed that up in 30 or 40 minutes one day, but not with a good deal of precision. Still, it's close, and it's cheaper than using all of those moulded right-angle hoses.

I even made the new nipple from the water pump - used a pipe thread-to-sweat adapter, then sweated the rest of it together. Make it up into a right-angle bend, so I don't have a rubber hose running anywhere near the back edge of that idler pully (which I really didn't like!) and don't need a right angle there, either.

Speaking of being creative, I am thinking I could order the molded heater hose from the renix setup and use it with something I can get at a plumbing store like you said... It would make using something locally available an option from now on. Thanks for the thoughts. I do like the way you think outside the box...
 
Speaking of being creative, I am thinking I could order the molded heater hose from the renix setup and use it with something I can get at a plumbing store like you said... It would make using something locally available an option from now on. Thanks for the thoughts. I do like the way you think outside the box...

Brother, I've had to.

And, the only moulded hose left in my system is the one into the bottom of the volume tank at the firewall - I was in too much of a hurry to design that one out of the system. It's going to happen, just hasn't happened yet...

Apart from that, I can service the entire heater system with about two feet of straight heater hose (about five bucks.) Considering that moulded right-angle hoses tend to start around fifteen bucks for just one right angle, I'm glad to have deleted them!

I've also deleted the heater control valve (I may make it manual later, but haven't gotten around to that yet either,) with no ill effects.

Let me know if you can't see the pic on the site. I'm not sure where it is - but I think it's under "Works in Progress by Works in Progress."
 
I've also deleted the heater control valve (I may make it manual later, but haven't gotten around to that yet either,) with no ill effects.


No air? or just don't care? I know it's not really needed unless you have air, and even then it's only desirable, not "needed"
 
No air? or just don't care? I know it's not really needed unless you have air, and even then it's only desirable, not "needed"

Compressor froze, haven't bothered (or had the dosh) to do the conversion, and managed to support an idler pully to replace the compressor anyhow.

Problem solved. For now.

I'd like to eventually restore the aircon and have it done with HCF-134a (or something else that I can charge myself,) but I've got other projects and such in the way first (and plenty of things to fix around the house first. Ugh.)

And, even with aircon it's not strictly necessary, since later XJs (and other later vehicles) don't have them - even with aircon (our 2005 Verona doesn't have a heater control valve that I can see, but the aircon blows nice and cold - even driving across I10 in Arizona in August!)

I'm not sure what they did to change that, but it's nice to see, and I'll see if I can't duplicate that on my older rig (and therefore eliminate a potential point of failure.) Either that, or I'll use a cable-operated valve and use something nice and solid brass or CRES instead of moulded plastic...
 
I shouldn't let you piss me off, because I realize that's all you're trying to do, but you deserve what I'm about to say... If you were smart enough to put two thoughts together, you would already know that this is more than just a rant, it is a warning to people who might not know that the part has to be ordered seperately... But since you are more interested in trolling and pissing people off than actually helping people, you must have been too distracted to think straight... if you actually do think...

Since you're still a noob, I'll cut you some slack. Next time you rant, don't pretend to make it a PSA. You were the one making wrong assumptions. Now either grow up or develop some skills (preferably both).

BTW: Rant on if you wish. I'm done with this thread.
 
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