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Dana 30 Brake & Steering Upgrade - XJ to WJ

baseballneal86

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Damascus, MD
The front end of my Jeep has developed a lot of play recently. After getting it up on a lift and checking things out, there are many parts that need replacing. The trackbar, both unit bearings, and 2 tie rod ends are all shot.

So in the true spirit of Jeeping, I decided to upgrade rather than replace with stock parts.

My plan is as follows:

-WJ knuckles
-WJ dual piston calipers
-JKS knuckle spacer
-JKS OAB (over axle bracket) for the trackbar
-Home built trackbar mount at the frame
-Tie rod flipped to above the knuckle

I haven't decided what I'm going to use for steering yet. Right now I'm thinking either 1 ton TRE's or heim joints. This is my DD so I'm leaning towards the TRE's.

When I build the trackbar I will be using a heim joint at the frame end. Would it be best to use a heim joint at the axle end as well? Or would I be fine with a rubber bushing?

I also haven't decided what rotors I'm going to use. Does anyone have any input on which is better between WJ rotors and the 2WD Ford SportTrac rotors?

Here's what I picked up from the local junkyard for under $80... 2 good calipers, 2 knuckles, 2 caliper brackets, and all the hardware.

P1010236.jpg


P1010238.jpg
 
use those calipers as cores, and get some shiny new ones
 
Agreed, don't use those calipers. I've had 2 WJ calipers lock up on me while braking, you don't want to have that happen.

Use the RE mount/brace at the frame end. Its not worth reinventing the wheel.

This is the d30 parts off of my build sheet. IMO, you can't come up much more solid on a 30.

Dana 30
Housing taken to bare tube and sleeved in 3x.250" DOM
Trussed with 2x4 .250" by Overkill Fabrications
Custom axle bracketry (.188 and .250) by Overkill Fabrications
Inner C's rotated for 12 degrees pinion and 6 caster
WJ knuckles with JKS spacer
WJ brakes
WJ ball joints (spicer)
WJ style steering over the knuckle
JKS tie rod, 1.25x.375" with WJ ends
Custom draglink, 1.25x.188" with high misalignment 1 ton ends
Custom trackbar, 1.25x.250" with RE upper and 7/8" rod end lower, RE bracket+brace
2" Superflex joints for axle UCA bushings
ARB air locker, 30 spline
Alloy-USA 30 spline 4130 inner shafts
Warn 5x5.5 30 spline hub kit
CTM u-joints
Precision 4.88 gears, Precision install kit
Alloy-USA tube seals
U-bolt yoke
Crane CrMo diff cover

Housing1.jpg


Housing2.jpg


steering.jpg
 
Dana 30
Housing taken to bare tube and sleeved in 3x.250" DOM
Trussed with 2x4 .250" by Overkill Fabrications
Custom axle bracketry (.188 and .250) by Overkill Fabrications
Inner C's rotated for 12 degrees pinion and 6 caster
WJ knuckles with JKS spacer
WJ brakes
WJ ball joints (spicer)
WJ style steering over the knuckle
JKS tie rod, 1.25x.375" with WJ ends
Custom draglink, 1.25x.188" with high misalignment 1 ton ends
Custom trackbar, 1.25x.250" with RE upper and 7/8" rod end lower, RE bracket+brace
2" Superflex joints for axle UCA bushings
ARB air locker, 30 spline
Alloy-USA 30 spline 4130 inner shafts
Warn 5x5.5 30 spline hub kit
CTM u-joints
Precision 4.88 gears, Precision install kit
Alloy-USA tube seals
U-bolt yoke
Crane CrMo diff cover

i dont think that would be a solid d30 at alllll :eyes:









j/k nice bomb proof 30 lol
 
how much did you pick up those knuckles for? also do you have to do anything to the brake system to make the new stuff work?? i need a better setup for my otk, and the wj setup looks perfect..
 
how much did you pick up those knuckles for? also do you have to do anything to the brake system to make the new stuff work?? i need a better setup for my otk, and the wj setup looks perfect..

I'd recommend going with the WJ MC / BB just to ensure the correct fluid & pressure reaches those higher-volume front calipers but I think you'd have great success with the stock Master Cylinder, too.

To the OP: SCORE! Sounds great, man - keep us updated with pics on the build!
 
Ok, I'll make sure to get new calipers then.

Any opinions on WJ TRE's vs. 1 ton TRE's?

I run 1 ton ends and I can not use my ruff stuff diff cover because I don't have enough room between the tierod and the cover. I can't turn driver with it as much. I had to go back to the stock cover for now anyways.
 
I've had no problems with wj tre's.
861693f7.jpg

6d51b76d.jpg
 
at 18 apiece, I'm pretty darn sure you weren't at Rockville Used Auto Parts...
Where are the decent yards in Utah?!
 
Ok, I'll make sure to get new calipers then.

You didn't say what year WJ you got the calipers from. The WJs came with two different calipers - the Teves and the Akebono, with the Akebonos being the preferable ones.

And depending on what wheels you are running, they may not fit over the WJ calipers. Some 15 inch wheels won't work. Other 15 inch wheels may require some grinding on the calipers. And some will work. It's hit or miss. Sixteen inch wheels will definitely clear the calipers.
 
Ok, I'll make sure to get new calipers then.

Any opinions on WJ TRE's vs. 1 ton TRE's?


I run WJ at the tie rod and 1 ton at the draglink (the high misalignment chevy DLE's).

its been a pretty good setup for me so far. a little over 2.5 years and i just replaced the first set of tie rod ends, not because of excessive wear, but because i was doing balljoints and hubs, figured it was a good time to freshen it all up.
 
I run WJ at the tie rod and 1 ton at the draglink (the high misalignment chevy DLE's).

After reading up on the wj tre's binding on the draglink I'm going to change to 1 ton tre's. (on the draglink only)
 
You didn't say what year WJ you got the calipers from. The WJs came with two different calipers - the Teves and the Akebono, with the Akebonos being the preferable ones.

And depending on what wheels you are running, they may not fit over the WJ calipers. Some 15 inch wheels won't work. Other 15 inch wheels may require some grinding on the calipers. And some will work. It's hit or miss. Sixteen inch wheels will definitely clear the calipers.

Why are the Akebonos more desireable?
Does anyone know what years they came on?

John
 
I don't remember the first year they put them on, but I do know that replacement calipers or pads are more expensive (Akebonos).

I wanted to switch from Teeves to Akebono a week or two ago and it was insane. Granted it includes the new caliper mount, but still it was like 115 for ONE loaded caliper.

I guess it makes sense if you're starting out with nothing, but I already had brand new pads.

EDIT: [hijack] 1,000th post....nice :D [/hijack]
 
what about just getting the whole axle from a WJ and tossing it under there?
assuming you need to replace your axle anyways, is there any weaker points to the WJ axle?
 
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