Different types of Ignition coil?

so over two years I narrowed down my no start issue to the ignition coil (so I thought) went to NAPA got the part, went to put it in yesterday and the one I bought looks the same but there is no protective plastic casting, it's exposed metal plates, needless to say, jeep still won't start, do I have the wrong part?

Thanks

Doug

Hard to say; you could verify the part number again with NAPA to be sure.

What exactly are your "no-start" symptoms?

I asked for it by part number, just looks like maybe they messed up in the manufacturing dept, I know not to trust them cause the temp sensor I got from them was bad from day one leading to a 6 month search of why my heep was overheating.

symptoms are strong crank (killed my battery and a jump pack in one sitting) but no catch. replaced cps, ignition coil, have fuel at the rail, and intermittent spark, all new plugs and wires, cap and rotor. I had the gasket replaced on the dizzy a little before this started happening so the only thing left to check is if the mechanic put it in wrong, I have another one at my parents but I won't be up there until x-mas and I was hoping to have this thing sold by then

It did almost catch yesterday after the new coil went in but the jump pack died, used my wifes car to jump it and nada


doug

Doug,

Just brainstorming here. Did the vehicle start AFTER the new dizzy gasket was replaced? If it did and ran okay, probably not that. A few other things to consider checking:

1. How old is the distributor cap and rotor? Simple stuff first and they can be involved
2. The ignition switch itself could be suspect
3. Try testing your camshaft position sensor. Not usually responsible for NO spark but is closely involved in spark timing and worth a shot.
4. Try disconnecting and cleaning (electrical contact cleaner) the crank sensor connector inside the engine bay (not on the sensor itself) It's located on the firewall back of the bay near the #6 injector. I have seen one become corroded to the point where it inhibited the crankshaft position sensor signal from making it to the computer.

all engine parts, including the engine are about 5k miles old, started for a while after the gasket was replaced, then one day in the rain it stalled out, started right back up and then it was hit or miss for a while and now its mostly miss. when I pull a spark plug to test, sometimes there is a spark and the car fires up and sometimes there is nothing, which led me to the ignition coil, when I replaced the CPS I checked every electrical connection I could find.

ive read every no spark, no start thread on this and other sites and have almost run out of parts to throw at it, wifes getting a little pissed

doug

H8PVMT said:

Started for a while after the gasket was replaced, then one day in the rain it stalled out, started right back up and then it was hit or miss for a while and now its mostly miss.

Click to expand...

The fact that your symptoms started one day during the rain may be a clue. There could be moisture inside the distributor cap. It wouldn't hurt to swap that and the rotor out.

As you seem to have intermittent spark, I'd take the 15 minutes to test your camshaft position sensor, located inside of your distributor. That sensor is important in determining spark timing.

I know you said you checked every electrical connection you could find; it might now be time to electrically TEST every sensor that could be related to your condition. Do not exclude any new parts installed as a possibility of causing your problem. New parts can and do sometimes fail soon after installation; it's known in the business as "infant mortality".

just reminded me of something, while it was still running a code was on, brought it to autistic zone and he said it was a vacuum problem or o2 sensor, said it was a real common code for Cherokees (he drove a one so i trusted him) then one day the light went off could a vacuum problem or bad o2 sensor be the prob, I have only replaced the one after the cat, still have to replace the one before it. I will get new cap and cam sensor this week and try that, lost my repair manual so I am at a loss for where the vacuum lines are.

doug

Its a definite possibility that it could cause the check engine light on, but it won't cause the car to not start. The ecm doesnt read the O2 sensor at start up. It would also have to be a pretty huge vacuum leak to not start, and you would most likely hear it. Neither of those would cause a spark to intermittently fire. Make sure your ignition switch is ok, mine failed and was tricking me- it would crank but not start. Also check under your cap and rotor like wwas stated and check the cam position sensor. good luck, keep us updated

this thing?

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPag...er=KS6557&Description=Ignition+Starter+Switch

I still have 70 bucks I can blow on this heep before I get in trouble

I keep telling the wife I only paid 500 bucks for the jeep, she keeps on harping on how much I spent after that

yup, thats what it looks like. Its pretty easy to change, I think you need some tamper proof torx bits though. Make sure its bad before u change it. Try to jiggle the key after you crank and see if the engine will catch, thats how I did mine.

H8PVMT said:

so over two years I narrowed down my no start issue to the ignition coil (so I thought) went to NAPA got the part, went to put it in yesterday and the one I bought looks the same but there is no protective plastic casting, it's exposed metal plates

Click to expand...

yeah that's fine

What about the cam sensor/stator (seems to be called different things from time to time) under the distributor cap?

Might have been damaged. But it was mentioned already, just thought I'd repeat. I had a no spark situation once. Replaced the crank sensor because I was sure it was that, and no....in the end this sensor below the distributor was the sensor at fault!

well Art made the trek to my place today and lent me a cam sensor, still no catch, BUT NOW when I crank it over the oil pressure shoots way up and there was smoke coming from the back of the engine, I am going to put new grounds and and replace the fuel filter, plugged a code reader in and no new codes or stored so I guess that's good, I'm guessing I shot the head gasket today though:bawl:

any new guesses from the gallery?


TIA

Doug

I'd check the harness really close, you sure don't want to melt down a harness.
The Dark Green and orange wire at the coil is the ASD circuit, supplies power to many things. The Dark Green and orange wire at the coil is from a splice??? in the ASD circuit.
The coil should have near battery voltage (Dark Green and orange wire) whenever the ASD relay is closed. The coil is fired (collapsed to generate high voltage) on the ground side at the PCM.
I'd hook a volt meter up to the ignition coil connector (with it connected)(dark Green and orangewire) see what I had for voltage and shake some of the harness and connectors.
A habit I got into with my Renix's, I always check the wiring before I buy anything. The 96 has a better harness. but having said that, the last big problem (in my 96) was an ASD cricuit fault in a connector under the dash.
Experience tells me in the Renix, wiring/connector faults outnumber sensor faults about 2 to 1, in my 96 it's about 50-50.

You never said if it had fuel pressure or not. Does gas want to shoot you in the eye when you depress the schrader valve on the fuel rail?

yeah it shot everywhere when I pressed the valve, I said "prob not a good idea on a hot engine" the fellow member helping me laughed and pointed out that it can't be hot if it's not running, gonna replace the filter just in case