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What is the best long arm kit for your money?

bwfdrums

bwfdrums

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
ohio
I'm thinking about going with a 5.5"/6.5" long arm kit with 33"/34"ers x12.50's. So if anyone has pics with that kind of set up. That will help to.
 
Home made if you have the know how.

I personally like my T&T Customs Y link, Ive had it for 2 years now and its never given me a problem, and im hard on it.
If I was in the market again Id be looking at RockKrawler, Full traction, and T&T
 
T&T
Claytons
Rock Krawler

End of story.

Search for the pros and cons of each, the cost per kit, and then make your decision based on that.
 
I have a Rockkrawler 8 inch long arm from 2rs. ago. with 33's. I like it except for the ultra soft springs.. they perform great but were sacked in 6 months.. bad and I don't really carry any weight. My front arms are the straight ones. I think they changed to the bent for more steering. I upgraded to the Rustys spring and I'm very happy. IDK know how Rustys long arm kits are from experience but if I had it to it again, I'd definately consider them. I've had nothing but good dealings with Rusty's. Good service. Fairly priced. I think they offer powdercoat options too if thats an interest.
 
I've had the Rusty's Long Arm for 2 years now. Just like any long arm kit, it's well worth the investment. I really don't know how they price in comparison to others, but mine has held up through quite a bit. Sorry no pics.
 
Can you weld? Claytons is a great kit, requires welding for the install and doesn't have belly skid. The TnT kit, what I run, is also a great kit, its bolt on (but requires time) and the plus of it is the belly skid, which I seem to hit alot judging from the lack of paint it now has on it.

-Alex
 
thx guys, I'm so pumped! so many options. still if anyone has any pics. So i can figure out what size tires im going to upgrade to.
 
well this is a Jeep board, with a pictures section, and a search function. combining those will provide a lot, I mean a lot of pictures of lifted Jeep.
Whether or not they have long arms won't change what they look like lift/tire size wise. A 5.5" lift w/34's will look the same whether its short or long arm.
If you want pics of the long arm setups, most companies have plenty of pics on their sites.
 
Where is the RE love? Anyone like the RE 5.5" Extreme Duty Long Arm lift? That is what I have been considering for my next XJ.
590.jpg
 
Sorry I meant pics of them flexing. Because I don't want to rub at all. I searched for a good 20 mins last night and got tired. And I didn't see any saying if they have like a 5.5"(brand name) lift and 34" tires. Ill keep looking. Also I know lifts legitimately don't all sit the same height. I have two friends that both have 6.5" long arm kits(different Brands) with 34" tires and one sits higher than the other and thus more clearance.
 
If you don't want to rub at all, just bumpstop properly and use the right backspacing on your rims....
 
its not the longarms , its the springs rate (and brand), and the weight they carry that determines the height . also consider shock length , bump stops , trimming and possibly limiting straps as far as rubbing is concerned .
 
bwfdrums said:
I have two friends that both have 6.5" long arm kits(different Brands) with 34" tires and one sits higher than the other.
Click to expand...

mine is only 5.5" mikes is 6.5" thats why he sits higher (im assuming thats who you are talking about)
 
not to hijack the thread, but haven't some users had issues with Radius arm vs. Non-radius arm? Does this factor into your value equation? (BDS, I think, is a non-radius arm kit).
 
RK for cost someone had a link floating around to get it real cheap!
 
Don't look at the kits until you have researched the characteristics and differences between a true 4 link, 3 link, and radius (y-link) style suspension. They'll all work, sure, but depending on what you want to do with the Jeep, you may make a mistake because someone told you it was a good kit. Once you decide between the types, filter out the kits that don't fit the profile you want.

IE, I went from a 4 link (Full Traction) to a radius arm (TNT) without doing the research and regret it. Both good kits, but the suspension geometry is NOT what I was looking for with the TNT kit. Soulda done my research a bit better.
 
53guy said:
Don't look at the kits until you have researched the characteristics and differences between a true 4 link, 3 link, and radius (y-link) style suspension. They'll all work, sure, but depending on what you want to do with the Jeep, you may make a mistake because someone told you it was a good kit. Once you decide between the types, filter out the kits that don't fit the profile you want.

IE, I went from a 4 link (Full Traction) to a radius arm (TNT) without doing the research and regret it. Both good kits, but the suspension geometry is NOT what I was looking for with the TNT kit. Soulda done my research a bit better.
Click to expand...

What exactly didn't you like? The radius arm type is really the best for a daily driver/trail rig because of the pinion angle. If your doing a jeepspeed build, then a 4 link is definetly the way to go because of the consistant castor.
 
Bryson said:
What exactly didn't you like? The radius arm type is really the best for a daily driver/trail rig because of the pinion angle. If your doing a jeepspeed build, then a 4 link is definetly the way to go because of the consistant castor.
Click to expand...

I don't like the extreme anti-dive characteristics that the TNT kit has and the ride is a different ride in terms of quality and comfort. Its not a huge difference, and its not bad, its is just DIFFERENT. There's nothing wrong with the TNT kit, it just has inherently high numbers. I agree with the pinion factor but the majority of users will be fine with the change in pinion angle on the FT kit and do not neccessiarly need the constant pinion angle.
 
can anyone summarize the difference between the 3 link, 4 link and the radius arm, or post a link to a relevant thread...found nothing on the search feature...
 
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