NSS question

If I end up having to replace my NSS, how much will a new one cost?

Close to 3 bills from the dealer.
Look on ebay. You should be able to find used and "rebuilt", that is, cleaned up inside and ready to go for way less than a hundred.

109ace said:

If I end up having to replace my NSS, how much will a new one cost?

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You can overhaul yours for about $10-15 (or less, if you happen to have everything on the shelf,) and really come out ahead.

If you end up replacing the thing, I'd like to talk to you about getting the old one (even if you've managed to break it.) I've got some ideas I'm working on...

Thanks, I am hoping the problem is not the NSS, i tried all the tricks to test it but the jeep still wont start, the relay wont even click. The starter is new, thought that was the problem but its not. It is too cold and snowing here so I cant work on it here at school so it went to the shop. I wish that this would have happened when it was still decent out. 5-90, if it is the NSS then its yours.

To isolate the NSS:

1) Try starting in P, but while pressing the shifter handle to either the forward limit of the position or the rearward limit.

2) Alternatively, try starting in N.

If neither of those works (one should,) then you may have a separate issue. The starter motor relay did change format over the years (RENIX used some funky OEMR that can be rewired for a standard DIN relay, early HO used a standard DIN, and I think later HO used a Mini-DIN.) DIN relays are roughly 1" cube, not including the terminals. Mini-DIN relays are roughly 1"x1"x1/2", not including terminals. HO has the starter motor relay in the PDC.

If you have an HO (1991-up,) you should have a couple of DIN and/or Mini-DIN relays in your spares box with fuses and lamps anyhow - that would allow you to test by substition. Expect a DIN relay to run not quite $10 at the local, Mini-DIN relays should be a bit less.

The price of a new one is ridiculous. So I just picked one up from the junkyard for like $5.

The plan is to take it apart and clean it up using jeepin.com's writeup. Then I'll swap it onto the MJ. I'll take the one on the MJ, clean it up, and keep it for a spare.

http://jeepin.com/features/nss/index.asp

I tried those two test for the NSS but still nothing happened. Its a 98. I replaced the starter relay but that didn't do anything either. I also checked all the larger fuses, there were several of the smaller ones in a separate area of the box but they were not labeled, I thought there were spares. I am hoping that it isn't the NSS since it started eariler in the day and was running fine, it took about a sec longer then usual but it was cold out. I was thinking it could either be a bad ground, the wires grounding out or corrosion. It looked like on one of the wires that leads to the starter was coroded but since the relay wasnt doing anything I dont that thats it.

I don't see any mention of freshening connections. Never forget the basics. Even if the connections look good, they may be responsible for poor electrical contact. Poor connections are responsible for a high percentage of electrical problems. Intermittent problems like yours could easily be contact related.

*Remove battery cables, clean with steel wool or commercial cable cleaner, clean battery post itself. Reattach tightly.

*Freshen grounds, starter connections as well

109ace said:

I tried those two test for the NSS but still nothing happened. Its a 98. I replaced the starter relay but that didn't do anything either. I also checked all the larger fuses, there were several of the smaller ones in a separate area of the box but they were not labeled, I thought there were spares. I am hoping that it isn't the NSS since it started eariler in the day and was running fine, it took about a sec longer then usual but it was cold out. I was thinking it could either be a bad ground, the wires grounding out or corrosion. It looked like on one of the wires that leads to the starter was coroded but since the relay wasnt doing anything I dont that thats it.

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Mine turned out to be contacts in starter. Took it off and tested fine at parts store. Put it back on and it worked fine for a week. After replacing starter haven't had a problem in a year! :cheers:

Don't forget the ignition switch itself can be bad.

You should be able to jump around the NSS to see if that eliminates the problem. CAUTION: VEHICLE CAN THEN START IN ANY GEAR AND RUN SOMBODY OVER. So don't leave it that way.

I know this sounds like an unrelated question, but does your XJ currently or ever in the past had a factory or aftermarket alarm? I know of a few cases where the starter kill relay would go bad and produce the same symptoms.

i had a 98 for a while and for some reason the battery connectors liked to corrode all the time. i ended up cleanning them once a month. but it would act the same way that you are specifying. I put new terminals on and ran new grounds, and started mint, traded it 2 weeks ago though for a 96 xj so don't know if its still a go....

you battery terminals are corroding because your alternator is over charging.

109ACE, Just curious... Did it get fixed? What ended up being the problem?

If you do need a replacement, $130 or $150 depending on the year.
http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bin/partsSQL/search.cgi?query=neutral&catid=95

aquaholic said:

you battery terminals are corroding because your alternator is over charging.

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that's a rather simple blanket statement-- do you have any reason to assume this, or is it just a hypothesis based on past experiences? The reason I ask is that more often than not, corrosion at the terminals is due to a less than perfect connection between the terminal and the cable. While the outgassing of a battery can cause sulfur to build on the terminals, it isn't the most common or "first place to look" cause. Poor connections and high resistance in the cables would be more likely culprits.

Shorty said:

that's a rather simple blanket statement-- do you have any reason to assume this, or is it just a hypothesis based on past experiences? The reason I ask is that more often than not, corrosion at the terminals is due to a less than perfect connection between the terminal and the cable. While the outgassing of a battery can cause sulfur to build on the terminals, it isn't the most common or "first place to look" cause. Poor connections and high resistance in the cables would be more likely culprits.

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Yep -
Loose/contaminate connection should be checked for first.
Especially with OEM (and most aftermarket - they're not sealed well, either) cables, check also for corrosion of the conductor under the insulation just off the clamp - that's usually where it takes root.

Clean thoroughly. A wire brush can work well, but the tool that most parts houses have (the one that looks like a cross and actually shaves a small amount of metal off to get to the clean stuff) works better.

Mix two tablespoons of baking soda with a quarter-cup of petroleum jelly. Assemble terminals. Coat with baking soda mix. Store unused portion in cool, dark place - check every six months, or just recoat after washing down the engine bay.

The petroleum jelly will give you a protective coating, and the baking soda mixed into it will neutralise acid before it gets through the jelly. Best stuff I've found - ever - for protecting battery terminals (I've even tried most of the commercial goodies.)

It will be easier to mix the stuff up if you heat the petroleum jelly in a pot of boiling water before you add the soda and mix. Apply with a resin/acid brush (the metal-handled ones you can buy in bags of 50 or 100.)

The alternator overcharging theory is easy enough to verify with a meter at the battery.

I had a recent corrosion problem myself with a fairly new battery (12-18 months old IIRC). Turned out one of the posts had turned loose of the plastic case seal ( I could grab the cable, twist it and actually turn the post, WARNING don't try that with the engine running, and don't turn it too much, or you might cause a spark and big BOOM) and it was releasing H2SO4 (sulfuric acid) gas up under the post and cable clamp. I replaced the battery (Autozone warranty) and the problem went away!