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Reverse light help

billyjp2

billyjp2

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Indian Orchard MA
On my new-to-me xj the reverse lights aren't working. I replaced the bulbs just incase, but as i suspected that wasent the problem.

When i put the jeep in reverse however, the part time 4x4 light comes on.

i searched but most of the posts were about the nuetral safety switch. (mine is a 5 spd)
 
There is a mechanical reverse lamp switch on the side of the manual transmission - I don't recall exactly where, but it's there (and it's easier to R/R, and it's cheaper than the AW4 NSS anyhow.)

You should be able to find it at any local parts house, as long as it's an AX-15 or NV3550 (1988.5-1999, or 2000-2001.) The AX-5 (five-speed four-cylinder) uses, I believe, the same part as the AX-15- but it's a common enough box on its own anyhow.

Replacement takes all of a few minutes once you find the wretched thing - it's accessible without tearing down or removing the box, and you just need a wrench to grab the hex. It should be a "two-wire" switch, so you'll be able to use a small bit of sealer (RTV or PTFE paste) on the threads of the replacement switch to ensure against leaks.
 
what year xj? my 88 reverse lights stopped working when I had a vacuum leak, and started working again when I fixed the leak.
 
xj88superjeep said:
what year xj? my 88 reverse lights stopped working when I had a vacuum leak, and started working again when I fixed the leak.
Click to expand...

Hah? Was it the Peugeot, and where was the vacuum leak?

(I just find that interesting, and I'd like to add it to my notes of "weird stuff - all the news that's printed to fit.")
 
5-90 said:
Hah? Was it the Peugeot, and where was the vacuum leak?

(I just find that interesting, and I'd like to add it to my notes of "weird stuff - all the news that's printed to fit.")
Click to expand...

No, it's a loaded Limited... It was the weirdest thing. I cut out the side of my airbox, and put in a performance filter to let her breath better, and I was going to delete (or at least incapacitate) that door at the front of the airbox that opens and closes airflow from the hot air tube. Well, when I disconnected the vac lines to that little door to test functionality of the components, My reverse lights no longer worked. Coincidennce??? Nope! After I buttoned everything back up about a week later with no reverse lights the whole time,, the reverse lights worked again
 
xj88superjeep said:
No, it's a loaded Limited... It was the weirdest thing. I cut out the side of my airbox, and put in a performance filter to let her breath better, and I was going to delete (or at least incapacitate) that door at the front of the airbox that opens and closes airflow from the hot air tube. Well, when I disconnected the vac lines to that little door to test functionality of the components, My reverse lights no longer worked. Coincidennce??? Nope! After I buttoned everything back up about a week later with no reverse lights the whole time,, the reverse lights worked again
Click to expand...

It was an automatic tranny? If it was the backup lights are controlled by the NSS and vaccum has no impact on it.
Alot of people delete the stock airbox and have no ill effects.
 
5-90 said:
Replacement takes all of a few minutes once you find the wretched thing - it's accessible without tearing down or removing the box, and you just need a wrench to grab the hex. It should be a "two-wire" switch, so you'll be able to use a small bit of sealer (RTV or PTFE paste) on the threads of the replacement switch to ensure against leaks.
Click to expand...

is the switch where the wiring harness plugs into the tranny?
 
Jess said:
It was an automatic tranny? If it was the backup lights are controlled by the NSS and vaccum has no impact on it.
Alot of people delete the stock airbox and have no ill effects.
Click to expand...

I left the vacuum lines disconnected, and it DOES have an effect.
They did not work while disconnected. Would it please you if I recreate it on youtube? Why would I lie?
 
Why is it that so many answers get thrown around all the time without even knowing the year of the XJ? Not just this thread either. It is not a moot point, the year always matters, but it seems like no one ever answers when I ask what year the Jeep is, and everyone goes right on throwing around answers. Sorry about the rant. Maybe I am the one missing something.
 
billyjp2 said:
is the switch where the wiring harness plugs into the tranny?
Click to expand...

With manuals, there are two "critical" switches.

The Clutch Safety Switch (CSS) is an analogue to the Neutral Safety Switch in the autos, and it's there to make sure you're not in gear when you're going to start by not allowing the starter motor to engage unless you've got the clutch pedal pressed. This is typcally mounted at the top of the clutch pedal, and is similar in function to the stop lamp switch.

The Reverse Lamp Switch is mounted on the transmission case proper. The mechanical bit is a ball actuator that is pressed by the reverse shift fork when the shifter lever is moved into Reverse, closing the switch (and therefore turning on the reverse lamps.)

If you lose one reverse lamp, it's best to replace both bulbs. If you lose both lamps at the same time, shift into Reverse (engine OFF, key ON, park brake ON and/or wheels blocked) and check for +12VDC at the lamp socket - if it's there, then you've coincidentally lost both lamps. If there's no power to the socket, you've probably lost the reverse lamp switch (it's fairly common to do so, so it's nothing to worry overmuch about.)
 
xj88superjeep said:
Why is it that so many answers get thrown around all the time without even knowing the year of the XJ? Not just this thread either. It is not a moot point, the year always matters, but it seems like no one ever answers when I ask what year the Jeep is, and everyone goes right on throwing around answers. Sorry about the rant. Maybe I am the one missing something.
Click to expand...

94 2dr Station Wagon, 5spd, 4:1 Rock-trac, 30 & 9" with 4.88s locked on 33" TSLs

assuming it's the one in his sig.....
 
xj88superjeep said:
I wasn't assuming that because he said it was is "new to him" XJ, and many including me have more than one.
Click to expand...

I was only trying to answer your question of why people were throwing around answers. If you aren't comfortable with the assumption, you are certainly not bound by it.:peace:
 
xj88superjeep said:
Why is it that so many answers get thrown around all the time without even knowing the year of the XJ? Not just this thread either. It is not a moot point, the year always matters, but it seems like no one ever answers when I ask what year the Jeep is, and everyone goes right on throwing around answers. Sorry about the rant. Maybe I am the one missing something.
Click to expand...

In many cases, a general answer can be made to apply irrespective of the model year. More specific information would be required to give more specific answers - but for simple stuff like this, a general answer can usually suffice. It's not like it's an engine control or a tune-up question, so general terms are just fine.

If it was a driveability issue or an engine control issue, you can bet I'd be asking for more information!
 
xj88superjeep said:
ARE YOU KIDDING? I mean a legally prescribed xanax.... LOL
Click to expand...

Just askin'. Can't get an MD to write a scrip for enough. Considering I'm up to taking them about six at a time just so I can think (or get some rest. Physical pain is physically tiring...) insurance probably won't approve it either.

Bastids
 
xj88superjeep said:
I left the vacuum lines disconnected, and it DOES have an effect.
They did not work while disconnected. Would it please you if I recreate it on youtube? Why would I lie?
Click to expand...

Definitely odd - the AW4 doesn't need a vacuum line for anything that I can think of. Especially that one!

No, I'm not doubting you (Why should I? Stranger things have happened. To me. Recently...) but I'm trying to sort it out in my head. Did you have any other driveability issues?

If I'm understanding you correctly, you're talking about not having the vacuum lines connected to the thermal switch and choke stove door on the airbox, yes? Those aren't even related to driveability - those are for emissions control (and of specious utility even at that, with fuel injection. Sorta useful with carburettors, but FI can be programmed to not need it. Mine hasn't worked - but I've not failed emissions in that condition. I just "fake it" so it looks hooked up.)

But it's especially odd if there weren't any other symptoms, and it's got me stonkered. Still, as I'd said, stranger things have happened.
 
5-90 said:
Definitely odd - the AW4 doesn't need a vacuum line for anything that I can think of. Especially that one!

No, I'm not doubting you (Why should I? Stranger things have happened. To me. Recently...) but I'm trying to sort it out in my head. Did you have any other driveability issues?

If I'm understanding you correctly, you're talking about not having the vacuum lines connected to the thermal switch and choke stove door on the airbox, yes? Those aren't even related to driveability - those are for emissions control (and of specious utility even at that, with fuel injection. Sorta useful with carburettors, but FI can be programmed to not need it. Mine hasn't worked - but I've not failed emissions in that condition. I just "fake it" so it looks hooked up.)

But it's especially odd if there weren't any other symptoms, and it's got me stonkered. Still, as I'd said, stranger things have happened.
Click to expand...


The only thing affected was reverse lights would not light up, and the vac leak made it run a little crappy... I am going to recreate this for my own sanity.
 
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