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Remove RTV on diff

X

XJFREK

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Left of center...
Okay, I've searched, but unfortunately, there's a lot of threads that contain "RTV". I'm trying to install a lubelocker on my 8.25, but the last place to remove my diff cover (either Jeep or the local 4wheel parts) used like a half inch bead that oozed everywhere. I got a gasket scraper, but the plastic edge didn't do much and the razor blade is definetely leaving scratches. I've read of using a wire wheel, but the only wire wheel I have is steel so I'm not sure about that. How does everybody who posts how-to's of doing this get their cover and case so clean? Is there a solvent I should be using? I was thinking of using some pumice hand cleaner and a kitchen dish scrubber but wanted to get some opinions. I already have some paint thinner and brake cleaner. I apologize if this has been covered elsewhere but after searching 5 pages of nothing pertaining to my problem I just couldn't do it anymore! Any ideas would be appreciated. TIA,

A.
 
I used scotch brite pads. Also sprayed brake cleaner on the RTV to soften it. After I was done I sprayed brake cleaner all through my housing to clean out the old fluid. Lube Locker rule. Follow the bolt pattern and torque specs.
 
The steel razor blade or the wire wheel will leave scratches--so what.The new RTV or gasket will fill them in.Scrape it off-clean it up and apply new RTV /
gasket and fill it up.

Wayne
 
I scrapped mine off as best i could with a paint scrapper and then used some carb cleaner as thats all i had around. It seemed to work pretty well. What was left rubbed off easily by hand.
 
I've always used either a putty knife or a fresh straight razor blade to clean the surface off and brake clean and scotch brite to remove the rest of it.

~Alex
 
Thanks everybody, I've got some generic scotch brite pads laying around I can use. I was mainly concerned about scratching the mating surface, as every DIY article you read about this says "use care not to scratch the surface...". I'm thinking, "how do you not scratch the surface using a steel scraper or brush?". Okay, back to the garage I go!
 
I just use a wire wheel, never had any problems with it not sealing after using it. Not sure if it scratches it or not really, I don't care as it never caused a problem and gets all of the old RTV off rather quickly!
 
When I need to clean up a metal surface for sealing, I'll use the Scotch-Brite Roloc pads chucked into a drill motor. Unless you get stupid with pressing down with a coarse pad on an aluminum surface, you're not likely to remove material - and for RTV, a fine pad and a light touch should serve nicely.

After the Scotch-Brite, dampen a rag with acetone or carburettor cleaner to wipe the dust and any remnants off of the surface. Repeat on the other mating surface.
 
Lay a rag across the internals to catch as much of the crap as possible. No sense spraying grit all over everything if you don't need to.
 
scotch brite pads,1 to 2 cans of brake clean. and a razor blade, always works like a charm
 
Well, I started by wetting everything down with the brake cleaner and then started with basically some pot scrubber pads I had. They worked to a point, but not as good as I had hoped. I then looked around the garage and found a 3M refinishing stripper pad leftover from a table project. I have no idea what "grit" it was, but it was more like a plastic steel wool pad. That worked like a charm. Here's the result.



I used nearly an entire can of CRC brake clean on it and after opening the garage door to vent the fumes I decided to put the cover back on tomorrow to give it time to drain out and dry fully. Hopefully, my $15 torque wrench will hold out and I won't have any leaks. Thanks for all of the suggestions and ideas. I'll let everybody know how it turns out.
 
i use a fairly sharp metal paint scraper, steel wool, razor, brake cleaner and sand paper
 
I've found that tiny scratches don't present a problem and the case will still seal efficiently. Bigger defects are not so good however and can present problems.

I purchased one rig and was doing the baseline fluid changes and both the diffs had some pretty big gouges (screwdriver I'm sure) from past owner abuse. I was surprised they sealed with those gouges but they weren't leaking when I changed them and they both did seal up leak-free after my changing the fluid using the RTV method.
 
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