Circuit Breaker or other?

Hello, My 95 XJ starts, runs, and acts normal until I turn it off, then it will not start. Turn the key and nothing. The dome lights and all other electrical are functioning. Then after a little while I try it and it starts like nothing happened. Is there a circuit breker or some othe time delay protective device engaging? Perplexed. - Thanks:helpme:

"Turn the key and nothing" - turning the key to START (trying to crank) or RUN (everything on?)

I'd probably start by checking the electrical ignition switch, but that's just me. After you shut down, turn the key back to RUN and see if everything gets powered up. If it does not, wiggle the key a bit and check. If that does it, then crank the key back to ACC and check the radio and such.

Chances are, either the contacts in the ignition switch (atop the column, near the firewall) are worn, or they've finally gotten hot enough to "move" in the plastic housing and aren't making proper contact anymore. You may want to replace the thing.

5-90 Yes, trying to crank = nothing. No cranking, no clicking, no dimming of the lights, just silence. Let it sit 10 minutes and then it starts like new again. - Thanks

Next time the key won't do anything in START, try this - without letting the key all the way out of the START position, wiggle it slightly and see if it will kick.

Just about every ignition switch I've seen fail has usually failed in the START position first - the reason I didn't bring it up that way was because I wasn't sure what you were talking about at first (believe me, when you're trying to get people who aren't there to help you diagnose a problem, it's far better to have too much information than not enough information - when making a diagnosis, I know I'll ignore anything that doesn't relate. But, if you didn't give me something I need, I end up having to wait after I ask - which delays things.)

Replacing the ignition switch is more of a pain than anything else - if you feel the top of the column down by the firewall, to the right of top, you should feel the thing. Usually, there are two screws that hold it in place and a single large electrical connector. Just make sure you don't misplace the operating rod (down from the mechanical lock where you put the key) putting the new one in - it's usually all done with the key in the OFF position.

Probably a half-hour or so - longer if you're a large individual (like me.) When working under the IP, I invariably find the work easier if I pull out the driver's seat - which is probably why I don't like power seats (I can have a manual seat out in three minutes. Power takes considerably longer.)

I'll take it out right know and try. And yes I have electrical seats with one of the motors bad. That will be the next project to see if I can change from electric seats to manual using the same seat.

Stripping the electrics out should not be a problem - but replacing the controls may be.

However, I believe the power seat buckets and manual seat buckets are the same, so you can move them from one base to the other. I can see what I have in the way of manual seat bases hanging about here (I've been cleaning out parts lately, but I've not gotten rid of everything...) and let you know if you like. If you don't hear back from me by, say, Wednesday; please PM me a reminder.

So turning the key to crank and nothing happens. If its an automatic, try starting it with the shifter in neutral. That will let you know if its the Neutral Safety Switch on the tranny. Could be a bad starter or starter relay too.

Hey guys, I can't really chime in on the ignition thing, but I can tell you that the seats from 91' up until 96' (Or whenever they brought in the new body style) will exchange freely. The whole mechanism is in the seat base. You can without TOO much difficulty swap your seats from the powered base to the manual base.

The only difficulty I have found is getting someone to sell you the seat base without the entire seat. Usually, they only get sold around here in a pair.

Just a note, while you have the seat out, it might not be a bad idea to look for broken or weakened welds and have those fixed. Also, you should throw the old bolts away. Just go buy new ones, put on some antiseize or something and throw them in there. O have had numerous seats break due to crap welds (and a fat butt) as well as most every bolt break while changing seats over the years. They tend to rot pretty fast in the environment they live in.

The earlier screws/nuts are threaded M8-1.25. I'm fairly sure I have one manual seat base around here somewhere - I don't recall which side it is, but if it's driver's side (which you're more likely to need...) we can work something out. Gimme a few days to dig it up.

Its not the shifter safety switch. Iv'e neutral and pushing forward on the shifter when trying to start. I tried to get it to fail earlier today but it wouldn't. Probably because I was in the driveway, and not at the gas station. Yeah know about the bolt fun. When I took the seat out before the back stud bolt broke. Right now the XJ is living the life of a backup ride whenever our other rides are n/a. But it is still my favorite.

Could be the CPS?

I recall reading somewhere that a marginally bad CPS can act up once you start a cold engine and drive it around. Something about as it heats up, it increases the electrical resistance of the wiring to the point that everything is not getting the correct signal. Once you let it cool, you're ok again.

A bad CPS won't stop it from actually cranking. It'll just crank and not catch.

Ah, misread the OP, sorry.