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Front D44 conversion questions...

S

sullivanclan

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Grand Junction, Colorado
im looking at buying a '79 F150 hp44 for the front of my xj. I'm thinking about ording the TnT truss and coil buckets. But I was wondering what would be the best way to convert it into 5 by 5.5 lugnut and how to set up the brakes?? any old threads or websites would be great.

thanks!

ps I have been searching haven't found definit answers!
 
A common setup is to use '77 or earlier Wagoneer or Chevy outer knuckles and brakes combined with '77 or earlier Chevy or Wagoneer disc brake spindles and F-150 hubs, rotors, bearings and seals. This combination yeilds a 5 on 5 1/2" wheel bolt pattern and has 1/2 ton outers.
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from the following site:
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/axle/conv/dana44/fsj-cj/

A few that I used when researching my HP D44 build.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Links/Links.htm

http://www.trailhed.com/d44.html
 
Yes, I was just going to say watch out because the '78-'79 HP44's that had the wedges used cast wedges with no axle tube inside the cast pieces. You can't narrow these axles, and you can't used the TNT truss with them.

If they have the leaf spring perches then you should be alright.

As said, Ford HP44s, unless from a F250 or bigger, would already be 5x5.5 pattern.

As far as brake lines, I have a HP44 in my front, but I have FSJ Wagoneer brakes in my front as I used the highsteer knuckles from that vehicle. The banjo bolt went from 3/8 to 7/16ths. I can't remember if the Ford are different or the same, but you may have to get new lines.


Mr. N's D44 write up, which Frank Z posted (the one that says "77cj.littlekeylime") is a great site. He has tons of info as far as what to look for, or watch out for, and what set ups to use.
 
My input on this:
- JeepFreak21 and Begster beat me to it, watch out for the the cast junk.
- Add up ALL the costs before you get started. Everything. U-joints to gears to fluids.
- Consider what you are doing for the rear axle.
- What is your overall goal for width?
- Tire size?
- If you can do the work of swapping the axle, would it be better to save the cash and do you own mounts over the T&T setup? (If I was to start over with my front, I would build 'em)
- Research other axles.

I DO NOT want to start another debate thread. However I spent some time and considered the above points and sold the HP D44 with welded mounts I had in favor of a D60. If you are going bigger than something a D30 can handle, really consider what you are gaining with a D44. Don't get me wrong, the HP D44 is great, just look at all the options before you commit.
 
I swapped in a HP44 with those dreaded cast wedges. I used the radius arms and love the suspension. I am building a wristed radius arm setup to give it more articulation, but I have wheeled the crap out of it as is.
 
old_man said:
I swapped in a HP44 with those dreaded cast wedges. I used the radius arms and love the suspension. I am building a wristed radius arm setup to give it more articulation, but I have wheeled the crap out of it as is.
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Your going to love that,I helped a friend build some for his Ford,it works!
 
Farmer Matt's XJ has the Ford raduis arms, and he's wheeled the crap out of that thing. He used one out of a Bronco, I think, so it's narrower. On the '79 F150 axle you'll need to use it full width, which you may not want to do.

Depending on future tire sizes, it's nice to just go ahead and do the D60, but it's way more than twice as expensive as doing the D44. A built D30 will handle up to 35's, but can eventually brake the ring and pinion. A built D44 will be virtually industructable with 35's, but you can start to break hubs and stubs if used hard on 37's. D60 stuff for anything over 37's. On the D44 and the D30, you need chromo shafts and axle joints, or there's no sense in building anything.
 
I looked up the wedge vs weld radius arms and realize that is just a bump in my path that I dont want to deal with. I'm still gathering ALL the information I can find about the D44 conversion and thats what I want, I dont plan on going bigger than 35" tires in my xj so 44's will work. KEEPING THIS A HP44 thread, a what year will be best 72-76's F150??? I still haven't decided about full width or not!?!?!
 
I got my set from a 78 F150 and it was all good, I love the axles!!! Oh I used the same extended brake lines I was already running with no issues at all.
 
Goatman said:
A built D44 will be virtually industructable with 35's, but you can start to break hubs and stubs if used hard on 37's.
Click to expand...

That´s exactly my plan. JK D44s (got them cheap), chromo-axles and 35" tires. I´ve just ordered the TNT longarms, the RE brackets for the front axle and some other minor stuff. I´m sitting on 35" right now and have no plans to go bigger since the rig isn´t "offroad only" but it´s more an "expedition type" wheeler.
 
brake lines aren't the problem,. Imean like calipers rotors, even knuckles spindles ect..

I'm finding more info everyday just wondering what people have done that works and what didn't. pros and cons.
 
Last edited:
I used a hpd44 out of a 74 F-150 and used the knuckles out from one of my 78 hpd44. I haven't been able to use it yet, but if you're looking to be kind of road legal (regarding width and tire coverage) look at some rims with some deep backspacing. I've got rims with 3.25" backspacing, and only 3" or so are actually under the Jeep. I also stuck with the Ford radius arms (extended), it was ALOT easier to push the axle forward, and mount them. Using my floor jack in the driveway I can cycle the suspension until it hits the bumpstops and I drop the opposite side coil without any bind. If you've got the cast wedges it'll be a weekend job to get the two swapped out, you just can't go OTK because of where Ford put their trackbar mount, it'll hit the tie rod way before you turn to full lock.
 
No.
http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/Dana44_2.htm
Suggested 44RS Axle for swapping using Chevy/Jeep style brakes: The F100 & F150 1973 to 75 44RS axles are great to start your build up. These years come with 2.75" diameter axle tubes with ½” thick walls and removable coil mounting cast C’s, standard issue Dana 44 ball joints and a separate bracket for the pan-hand bar. The only real down side is most come with drum brakes, however if you're swapping an axle, odds are you can swap the knuckles out for a Chevy for Full Size Jeep Dana 44 knuckle that has disk brakes, see below note on this. One advantage this axle has over the 76-77 is the Panhard bar, it's attached with a separate bracket and thus further out of the way. This is usually an easy axle to find and has the lowest price.
Click to expand...
 
sullivanclan said:
THe cast on wedges were on f150 & 250 in 77-79 right?
Click to expand...

The wedges that can be cut off, and are welded onto the axle are '77 and down. The cast wedges that are hollow and have no tube in them are '78-'79. The latter mentioned is undesirable if you plan to narrow the axle, as you can't narrow it due to the lack of axle tube in the cast wedge.

If you plan to keep the axle fullwidth, and use the ford radius arm system, then they aren't too bad I guess.
 
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