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RE Adjustable Track Bar - How to Adjust?

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originalxj

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I replaced my old RE TB with a new version (the old one was bent slightly and was rusty). We only moved the heep about a foot while the old one was off, then installed the new TB to fit the old distance, what we thought was the correct adjustment. The front was aligned and the steering wheel was straight when we started. After the installation of the new TB the steering wheel is pointing to the right when you are driving straight. I figured by just simply removing the old and installing the new one we wouldn't have to adjust it. What happened? What's the proper way to adjust? Would paying for an alignment solve it?
 
No, I wouldn't pay for an alignment...

I assume you know how to actually adjust the bar, and you're asking how to find the proper length to adjust to.

And that may well be simple trial-and-error.

Measure how far it's now off-center, and adjust the bar half that amount...

Robert
 
the TB adjust the axle's centering under the jeep. so, eyeball it to center. if the steering wheel isn't straight (dear god i hope you're not on stock steering with that much lift) adjust the drag link so that the steering wheel is centered. use a monkey wrench on the drag link...
 
bastard lift of about 4", RE short arm, 33's

These answers are great but please be more specific on where to measure. It's not that bad, it's very hard to tell which way it's off (drivers or pass) and it must be very close.
 
originalxj said:
I replaced my old RE TB with a new version (the old one was bent slightly and was rusty). We only moved the heep about a foot while the old one was off, then installed the new TB to fit the old distance, what we thought was the correct adjustment. The front was aligned and the steering wheel was straight when we started. After the installation of the new TB the steering wheel is pointing to the right when you are driving straight. I figured by just simply removing the old and installing the new one we wouldn't have to adjust it. What happened? What's the proper way to adjust? Would paying for an alignment solve it?
Click to expand...

The trackbar doesn't straighten the steering wheel the way you want it to. To center the steering wheel, you have to adjust the drag-link. This is the bar that connects to the pitman arm. (btw, photo is not mine, just found it from a search)

alignment01.jpg


And yes, you should get an alignment, especially if this not a trail-only rig.

Goog Luck!
 
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330LICIOUS said:
The trackbar doesn't straighten the steering wheel the way you want it to. To center the steering wheel, you have to adjust the drag-link.
Click to expand...

Uh, if the steering wheel WAS straight, and the track bar was replaced with one the wrong length, setting it to the right length will straighten the steering wheel.



I'd say drop a line, plumb bob, whatever from the frame to the axle tube, measure the distance to the steering knuckle. The difference between the two sides is how much it is off center. Adjust accordingly, recheck for center, repeat as necessary.

Or, you could measure framerail to axle tube, make sure the body is sitting level, then measure the diagonal from the frame to the opposite upper ball joint. Adjust accordingly, recheck for center, repeat as necessary.
 
Phil said:
Uh, if the steering wheel WAS straight, and the track bar was replaced with one the wrong length, setting it to the right length will straighten the steering wheel.
Click to expand...

Yes, in theory it should, but i think since these are the factors.... "(the old one was bent slightly and was rusty). We only moved the heep about a foot while the old one was off, then installed the new TB to fit the old distance, what we thought was the correct adjustment.".... measurements were thrown off. Even if the original trackbar was not bent, could one adjust the new one to be exactly the same length? Maybe, but if it were off just a couple millimeters, that could off-center the steering wheel, even if very slightly.

These are the steps I would take (again, from the photo as guide):

1) adjust the trackbar to get the axle centered. look at the left/right tires and just eyeball them until they are equal distance from the fenders.
2) adjust the draglink to center the steering wheel.
3) get an alignment from a shop (they will do #2 for you automatically as well, and #1 if you ask)
 
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Uh, don't eyeball the length on the track bar.

And I see the primary issue as "We only moved the heep about a foot while the old one was off, then installed the new TB to fit the old distance". Just a thought, try unbolting your track bar, give the Jeep a little shove sideways, and try putting the track bar back in.
 
Phil said:
Uh, don't eyeball the length on the track bar.

And I see the primary issue as "We only moved the heep about a foot while the old one was off, then installed the new TB to fit the old distance". Just a thought, try unbolting your track bar, give the Jeep a little shove sideways, and try putting the track bar back in.
Click to expand...

330LICIOUS said:
1) adjust the trackbar to get the axle centered. look at the left/right tires and just eyeball them until they are equal distance from the fenders.
Click to expand...

We're on the same page, but i didn't say eyeball the length on the trackbar. i said (or meant) eyeball the tires to the fenders until they are equi-distance. And the way to do this is as you describe, unbolting your track bar, give the Jeep a little shove sideways, and try putting the track bar back in. =)
 
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The track bar is the part that adjusts the difference between the tire and the fender...well, the track bar or the springs.
 
Thanks for the great replies. This is what I've done so far.

I eyeballed the diff by looking at the sidewalls and comparing them to various points on the body. Also by comparing the inside of the tire to the frame. And I don't see much difference so it can't be that far off. With this being the case I simply adjusted the Drag Link to straighten the steering wheel.

I still want to get it aligned just to be sure. Anything else?
 
Personally I wouldn't think you need alignment, but thats all up to you....

The steering wheel is an easy fix. Just park on a flat surface with the steering wheel in whatever position it is while the rig is driving straight. Loosen the two bolts in the picture below, and twist the sleeve until the wheel is straight. Often you can turn the sleeve by hand without a pipe wrench.

The adjustment ONLY affects your steering wheel, nothing else so you alignment will still be fine.

alignment02.jpg


By the way nice pic 330
 
Does the front differential need to be perfectly lined up with the transfer case output? I am using the stock trackbar right now so it must be pulling my driveshaft to the side a bit right?
 
I believe that there should be a slight lateral angle between the diff and T case and at this moment I can't remember why but I think it helps with any drive shaft vibes.
 
mucovich said:
I believe that there should be a slight lateral angle between the diff and T case and at this moment I can't remember why but I think it helps with any drive shaft vibes.
Click to expand...
Uhmm,no.You want to minmize compund angles!
 
mbogosia said:
Does the front differential need to be perfectly lined up with the transfer case output? I am using the stock trackbar right now so it must be pulling my driveshaft to the side a bit right?
Click to expand...

Depending on which lift you have I know with my OLDDDDD (circa 1991) Trail Master lift you drilled the axle bracket 3/4" towards the drivers side and simply remounted the stock TB there. Have you done this?

Not to get off subject but doesn't it suck being one of the first to purchase something then have the manufacturer comeout with a new "improved" product? I have the old style RE HD TB frame bracket that is a different configuration and on occasion hits the diff. Hence how my old TB got bent. Just venting.
 
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