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questions pertaining to trans pan gasket replacement...

Ben824

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Woodstock, GA
I have to replace my trans pan gasket on my 97 XJ 4.0L auto (AW4) 4x4 and I figure its pretty straight forward drain the fluid take pan off clean surface where pan and trans meet and then new gasket in place and put everything back. Is there anything else to it? How much fluid is it gonna take to refill it? also is there a specific torque that should be on the bolts holding it on?
 
That's all there is to it. You could even just use some gasket maker instead of buying a new gasket. It takes about 4 quarts (1 gallon) to fill the pan. The pan has a drainplug so just drain it through there and then fill it through the tranny dipstick.
 
I don't recall the exact torque spec offhand, but it's fairly light. That gasket is easy to crush.

You should be able to find the spec on my website (per FSM) in the Tech Archive section. I don't have all FSMs yet, but you should be able to find a year close to yours if I don't have your exact year listed - they really haven't changed all that much.
 
I don't recall the exact torque spec offhand, but it's fairly light. That gasket is easy to crush.

It's also amazingly easy to rip the aluminum threads out of the tranny. FSM says 53-70 inch*lbs on the pan bolts which ain't much. 15 foot*lbs on the oil plug itself.
 
It's also amazingly easy to rip the aluminum threads out of the tranny. FSM says 53-70 inch*lbs on the pan bolts which ain't much. 15 foot*lbs on the oil plug itself.

53-70 pound-inches comes out to about 4-1/2 to 6 pound-feet. Yep - not that much at all (even the valve cover gets 7 pound-feet, or 84 pound-inches.)

If anyone wants to do the "stud trick" like I always do, you'll need a few M6-1.0x20m/m studs and nuts to make it work. Don't change the torque spec, and you'll save yourself a lot of wrestling when you put it all back together.
 
You'll have to pull the dipstick tube out of the pan to let the pan drop down all the way.

Mine was being very stubborn and didn't want to come out. So the pan would only come down about two inches. But somehow I managed to change out the gasket.
 
Just finished changing out the gasket and man was it a PIA to get it back in with the new gasket. The gasket was only about 95% a perfect fit so it was difficult to get it all lined up while laying on the ground. Oh and I wish someone would have told me that there is still about half a quart of trans fluid in the pan still after its drained. I had no idea and spilt it everywhere. Neither my inch pound torque wrench or the foot pound torque wrench went down to as low of a rating as needed so I tightened them to where I felt comfortable and how tight I thought they were when I took them out. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
Removing the pan can be a pain as well as separating the distick tube. I found that using a high quality cork gasket made the job much easier than form a gasket or even rubber silicone gasket. Just use Dextron III to seal the deal. Some say to replace the oring on the tube, but how else are you going to know you over filled the tranny fluid if you don't see the puff of fluid buring on the exhaust.;)
 
My 94' didn't have a drain plug and I'm pretty positive my 97' Sport doesn't either. I'm getting ready to do a fluid/filter change so I'll let you know. I had the same horror story as johnnyc...dipstick tube would not come unattached. It was winter, vehicle was not jacked up, I pulled down on the rear of the pan until it bent enough to let me get the filter off and new one in. Trying to get the gasket on there and then push it back up against the tranny to try and get a couple screws started was the worst experience of my life. Hopefully it goes better this time around...
 
My 94' didn't have a drain plug and I'm pretty positive my 97' Sport doesn't either.
I'd recommend you look again then.

aw4_drain.jpg


That's the rear of the AW-4 oilpan, complete with the drain plug that's in every pan. Note the recommendation for Dexron, NOT Chrysler ATF.

Jim www.yuccaman.com
 
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