XJ w/ and auto

i'm lookin at buyin a '96 XJ w/ a 4.0 and an auto, just courious is the autos in these were a good tranny, this jeep is probably gonna see 4" of lift and 32/33 in tyres, moderate wheeling, mtn bike, and snowboard trips, and a few long highway drives. anyways, what are good gears for the tires and whats a good lift? i'm completly new the the xj world and i'm looking for options, thanks for any info sorry for the long post

I think you'll find the AW4 transmission in the XJ to be one of the most bulletproof out there. I have two that have gone over 200K with nothing but regular maintenance.

With 32-33" tires I'd look at 4.56 gears, but be aware that you'll probably have to install a slip yoke eliminator to deal with the vibes you will get with your lift.

Don't buy a '96, buy a '95.

They are very similar, but in '96 DaimlerChrysler redesigned the transfer case output. The new design is extremely prone to vibrations with any kind of lift, of any height. The older design can usually be run up to 3" (maybe even 4") of lift without requiring an SYE to alleviate driveline vibrations.

What if I have a '93, but got a t-case off a '96, will this give me problems?

I always thought that it was in '97 that they made the change over. I thought I was safe, now I am not so sure ;(


By the way, can some explain just what the slip yoke eliminator looks like and is suppose to do.


Tom Dennis

Look at the front drive shaft output, then amagine that on the rear. And then look at the front drive shaft in its entirty and then amagine putting one like that on the rear.

hope that helps

M. Lake said:

What if I have a '93, but got a t-case off a '96, will this give me problems?

Click to expand...

Probably.

Look at the output to the rear drive shaft. If you have a slip yoke that slides into the transfer case tail cone, that's the old style. This is a good thing.

If you have the output shaft exposed (not enclosed in a long tail cone), with an external slip yoke and a rubber boot ... that's the new style. This is not such a good thing. Its advantage is that if you need to drop the rear drive shaft, you can drive in front-wheel drive without spilling all the ATF out the tail cone. The disadvantage is that this design allows too much flex and lateral runout in the output shaft, so it is prone to vibrations and if the driveshaft angle gets big, it also tends to cause the transfer case to self-destruct. (Ask Dave Nay about that.)

Well that is just dandy.

When I blew up my motor, I had ur sittin pretty for a while, and then my best freind blew up his case in his '91 YJ. At the time, I didn't know about the input gear lenghts on the auto and manual. So I put my auto 231 into his 5 speed YJ. I still have the YJ t-case (in peices) which has the back half of the case broken. The input gear on it is gone, gave it away, and the chian I used to fix wife's stretched out chain. The rest of it is there. Can I take peices out of the '96 and the back half and mix them?

OK, I just checked my t-case and I see a rubber boot right at the output so I assume that I have the newer style and not the desired version.

So I guess when it comes time for the lift (cash you know), I will need to add that to the bill. I see RE has a kit for about $250 ;(

Tom Dennis