- Location
- Southern Maryland
If everything goes to plan, I'll be stripping down my beater and painting it about this time next week. I've got the paint and most of the supplies already but I need some guidance on parts of it.
My original plan was to paint it with rustoleum and mineral spirits mix, using an electric/turbine HVLP setup ($100 at Lowes or HF). This has been done before and the results are pretty good at really low price. However a jeeper in the local club has stepped up and is letting me use his massive home garage, and he has a pretty big (person-sized) air compressor so I now have the option of using a sprayer. Now the questions
The turbine HVLP sprayer seems to work pretty well, and does not have problems with water and oil in the lines since there is no compressor (just a blower). In the interest of learning however, I'm willing to go buy HVLP or traditional parts for the compressor. I know I will need a long hose, a drier, a regular gun with a 1.2-1.8 tip, and a detail gun. What's a good entry level package to buy, if I go this route? I will basically leave it with the guy so he can paint his trail rig, so I'm not interested in big investment. Also, can somebody clarify the issues surrounding gravity fed guns versus non gravity (blown?) sprayers here?
Research says that I need a thinner and a hardener to lay this stuff smoothly while reducing orange peel. From what I can tell, mineral spirits are good for the rollers since they need longer to setup, but with a sprayer (of any kind) you want to use something that will evaporate faster like acetone. However I have also read that acetone may also cause later coatings to separate, so the question is what would be a good thinner to use for oil enamel through a sprayer. Also, I would like to add some kind of hardener that will allow it to setup a little faster, especially since Rustoleum stays soft for so long, so does anybody have a good input on this too? I assume these two things go together.
Finally, I am trying to decide whether to clearcoat or not. I think it would be a good idea since it will be more durable. Also, scratch repair should be easier, even though major body repairs will be more difficult. What do you guys think? If I do this I will probably just use the Rustoleum stuff since it is also enamel based and should not have weird reactions, however that will be in a rattlecan, so if somebody has another idea that would be good. I assume I would buff the clear after the paint, right?
Any other suggestions thoughts whatever appreciated
Thanks
My original plan was to paint it with rustoleum and mineral spirits mix, using an electric/turbine HVLP setup ($100 at Lowes or HF). This has been done before and the results are pretty good at really low price. However a jeeper in the local club has stepped up and is letting me use his massive home garage, and he has a pretty big (person-sized) air compressor so I now have the option of using a sprayer. Now the questions
The turbine HVLP sprayer seems to work pretty well, and does not have problems with water and oil in the lines since there is no compressor (just a blower). In the interest of learning however, I'm willing to go buy HVLP or traditional parts for the compressor. I know I will need a long hose, a drier, a regular gun with a 1.2-1.8 tip, and a detail gun. What's a good entry level package to buy, if I go this route? I will basically leave it with the guy so he can paint his trail rig, so I'm not interested in big investment. Also, can somebody clarify the issues surrounding gravity fed guns versus non gravity (blown?) sprayers here?
Research says that I need a thinner and a hardener to lay this stuff smoothly while reducing orange peel. From what I can tell, mineral spirits are good for the rollers since they need longer to setup, but with a sprayer (of any kind) you want to use something that will evaporate faster like acetone. However I have also read that acetone may also cause later coatings to separate, so the question is what would be a good thinner to use for oil enamel through a sprayer. Also, I would like to add some kind of hardener that will allow it to setup a little faster, especially since Rustoleum stays soft for so long, so does anybody have a good input on this too? I assume these two things go together.
Finally, I am trying to decide whether to clearcoat or not. I think it would be a good idea since it will be more durable. Also, scratch repair should be easier, even though major body repairs will be more difficult. What do you guys think? If I do this I will probably just use the Rustoleum stuff since it is also enamel based and should not have weird reactions, however that will be in a rattlecan, so if somebody has another idea that would be good. I assume I would buff the clear after the paint, right?
Any other suggestions thoughts whatever appreciated
Thanks
