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Extended Front Bump Stops

R

river6822

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NY, USA
I need some suggestions on how to extend the bump stop / bump stop housing on a 92.

The issue I'm having is that I am installing an Airlift 80702 bag as well as a 2" Teraflex coil spacer.

I need the air bag to support the weight of a snow plow.

The issue becomes that the air bag is now 2" too short to do anything. It's designed to be installed in place of the rubber bump stop. You are suppossed to remove the bump stop and bolt this large plastic disk up there.

The issue with the 92 is that the bump stop mount is recessed about an inch in the housing. That, combined with the 2" I'm losing by installing the coil spacer leaves me with a need to mod something.

I can't use the hockey puck trick because the inlet stub of the air bag goes through the coil spring base. I have to drill it out to run the air line through it, to the bag.

I was thinking of using a 3-1/4" long piece of 1" pipe and running a really long 10mm bolt through it. That would extend it down, but i'm not sure of how strong it'll be.

Thoughts and opionions please.
 
Drill through the lower spring cup, dead center, and tap it for a 3/8"x16 bolt and then go buy you some hockey pucks. Drill through the center of the pucks and bolt them down. You may want to make a pocket for the head of the bolt so it won't damage the air bags.
 
How?

The bump stop mount is hollow right? Can you get to it from the top side, under the hood?

The XJ's not here so I can't go look.
 
river6822 said:
How?

The bump stop mount is hollow right? Can you get to it from the top side, under the hood?

The XJ's not here so I can't go look.
Click to expand...

Not sure on the 92's but there is a separate cup for the bumpstop on the older model XJ's. You can tap the plate underneath the cup and bolt on some spacers. On the later model XJ's the cup has to be cut off but there is also a plate under there as well that can be drilled and tapped. The ACOS system bolts up this way, I'll find you a link to the install of those.
 
Why are you using a coil spacer, since you no longer have coils? Why not get the correct size airbags, and not deal with it?
 
On the upper bumpstop housing - there is a cup so to speak. It's about an inch deep. On the lower most side it flares out. I'm just not sure if the plate part of the cup is the strongest part, or if the id of where it flanges out is the strongest.

The more I think about this, if I run a piece of pipe as a spacer, it will work no problem. I just don't know if I should run the piec up into the cup, or use a giant fender washer on the bottom of the cup and the opposite side of the pipe and run a bolt through it all.

I'm also thinking of going up to a 1/2" bolt instead of the 10mm. (Especially because I'm not going to find a 100mm long M10x1.5 anywhere local.)
 
river6822 said:
I'm also thinking of going up to a 1/2" bolt instead of the 10mm. (Especially because I'm not going to find a 100mm long M10x1.5 anywhere local.)
Click to expand...

Yep, you can. Buy a M10x1.5 threaded rod (a very common size) and weld a nut on one end, now you have a M10x1.5 bolt with full threads and as long as you need it to be.

I carry all-thread of various sizes in the tool box of the trail rig to make bolts as needed for trail repairs. Its easier than trying to carry all the different size bolts.
 
The ACOS installation sheets have a good illustration of it. I have the weld on bump stop holder.

If I were to take their instructions as gospel, the strongest part of the assembly is the welded washer they are saying to cut back to, and not the bump stop holder.
 
river6822 said:
The ACOS installation sheets have a good illustration of it. I have the weld on bump stop holder.

If I were to take their instructions as gospel, the strongest part of the assembly is the welded washer they are saying to cut back to, and not the bump stop holder.
Click to expand...

Yes it is thicker steel there than it is on the cup.
 
OK - now I'll just need to take a good ID measurement in the morning and hope that it's a wee bit bigger than 1.315" (The OD of 1" Galvanized pipe.)
 
FYI - The 1" galvanized pipe worked well. It was a little smaller than the IDof the bump stop holder, but once bolted down it was fine.

The real issue with extending the upper spring mount down is that if you go too long, you'll interfere with the coil. Believe it or not, the upper spring mount is not at exactly the same angle as the spring.

I started out with a 3-1/4" piece of pipe and that's where I ran into the interference. When I mounted the protective disk, it stuck out of the coil, and not just by a little.

Then I used a 2-1/2" piece of pipe and mounted my "protective disk" for the air bag with a M10-1.5 X 100mm bolt. I did have to tap the hole that was in the spring mount as well, but it all worked out.

Thanks for the help.
 
Glad it worked out for you.

As the axle moves downward it swings in towards the body, so unless you go with longer adjustable arms then you will have the interference that you are referring too. Its just the nature of a 4 link solid axle system.
 
this is what i did. to adjust you just loosen the nut and screw in or out the bolt.
356124847.jpg
 
i have seen people extend the front upper bump stop with what looks like a steel pipe. any comments or pictures of that? i have 6.5" lift and 35s and i have a 3 inch extended puck on the bottom of the front coil and trimmed fenders and im still rubbing pretty good
 
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