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Liftgate Support replacement

co_big_cheese

NAXJA Forum User
My rear lift gate won't stay up. Looks like I found the right part, they are calling it a lift support or liftgate support. Any other sources of this part anyone recommends? I assume these are fairly easy to replace, but haven't really looked at them yet.

Should I assume both need replacing or should I remove them and "test" them in some way.

NAPA
Item#: BK 8194716
Price: $34.99

AUTOZONE
Part Number: C95771
Price: $26.99
 
AUTOZONE
Part Number: C95771
Price: $26.99

That's what I bought. They've worked great ever since. Just bite the bullet and replace both. If you don't now, you will later.
 
They're pretty simple to replace, at least on the '96 and earlier models. Each end has a ball and socket joint, and has a semi-circular hair pin that keeps the ball in the socket. Look for a small loop at the end of the hair pin, and pop that around the arm to release it, then pull it straight out so that the ball is free. More than likely, if the arm is shot, you'll be able to extend and shorten it by hand. If it's good, you won't be able to compress it by hand.

Don't forget to support the tailgate, and it's heavier than you think it is.

As far as where to get a replacement, beats me. I grabbed the 2 good lift arms off the 92 XJ I junked last month.
 
Replace both - it's easier.

Note 1 - Check around the ball ends of the liftgate struts - there are usually small wire clip retainers there to keep them from popping off of the ball studs. You're more likely to see them on the new struts, and then you'll know what to look for and where to find it. Use the new ones, keep the old ones (spares are always useful, and you can't find little "dammit!" parts like that on their own anywhere...)

Note 2 - Don't let yourself get whacked in the head. Find a rigid prop and put it in place before you start to remove the first strut! One isn't enough to hold the thing up (and I've got the flat spot on the back of my head to prove it...)

Note 3 - Be careful getting the struts off of the ball studs. Breaking one of those is a pain in the arse - mainly because they're OEM only, and the odds are about even you'll break the new one putting it in (the neck under the ball is small, and that's what makes it so easy to pop the thing...)

Replacement takes about fifteen minutes - twenty if you haven't done it before. Suggest you clean the ball with a rag sprayed with carburettor cleaner, let the ball dry, and apply a little dry graphite to the ball before you put the new stud on (you can also use white grease, I just happen to prefer graphite for that application.)
 
I have bigger, heavier speakers in my hatch and I need to replace mine as well. Would these replacements last long with my heavier speakers or are there other ones I should use?
 
I have bigger, heavier speakers in my hatch and I need to replace mine as well. Would these replacements last long with my heavier speakers or are there other ones I should use?

How "bigger, heavier" are your speakers? I've got 6x9's in my hatch and the old (20 years old now?) struts are just fine. I replaced them in my 87 at ~17 years of service (they were original, and were getting weak when I put 6x9 Xplods in there,) and I didn't have to replace them on either of the 89's I had (also original, per markings on the strut casing.)
 
I have posted this before, but its cheap and easy...

You can remove the bracket on the hatch end of the strut, and redrill two new holes about 1/2 to 3/4 inch down from the original holes. The stock screws will self tap into them, and you have just saved yourself $60 on new struts. It just changes the geometry and gives the strut more leverage on the hatch. I did this on my first XJ, a 98, because I added some heavy 6x9's and the struts no longer held it up. Worked great, so after I totalled that one, and got a 97 with tired struts I tried it. Has been working great now for a almost two years and 35k.
 
Finally got around to replacing these Friday. Piece of cake to install!

Now my gate actually raises up on it's own instead of falling down and smashing me in the head.....

Thanks for the help!
 
When I went to the junkyard in search of the hatch struts I found a nice white XJ - with the hatch open, just staring at me and basically screaming "LOOK AT ME"

2 brand new hatch struts, bought em for very cheap.

I couldn't get them to fit with the pins though. It was a tight fit, I installed them and they are snut, no need for the pin. Not sure why that was, my original struts had the pins. Only one of the originals went bad, the other is still ok. So I am keeping that one as a spare I guess!

Much more still than the originals too. Although the originals made it alot easier to close when they working and supported fine, these basically make the hatch fly up when you open it.
 
Always replace both it will be hard to figure out which one is bad once you remove it any way, unless one is leaking...
 
I cheaped out and only replaced one, and the new one twisted in it's bracket within three days from supporting the load by itself. I didn't even notice, and it popped out when I was shutting it and almost took out the back window. THEN I read that they will twist if you don't replace both. So, from experience anyone considering ONE new strut, buy TWO or you will end up buying THREE. (and possibly a new rear window)
 
Replace both, you'll have an idea of how long they will last, instead of guessing when the old one might go bad. That way you won't find out by walking into the gate when it secretly droops down with your back turned. Yes, it left a mark.

If one is still good - you can tell, it's virtually incompressible by hand - you can use it up front with the "gas strut for the hood" modification. Hoods are much lighter, and it seems to work well. Plus, you don't throw out an otherwise useless strut. Hardware is at the salvage yard cheap enough, and you don't have to find the prop rod in the middle of the night in a pouring rain . . .
 
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