Just Re-Keyed my XJ for another Key

A neat little project I just finished. It may or may not be worth it for most people.

I re-keyed all the lock cylinders in my XJ to fit the key for my Neon, my Mini-Van is next. So I will have one key that will work in all 3 of my vehicles.

Obviously, this only works if you own vehicles of the same manufacturer during the same period when they were using the same key forms.

It takes some time and money to do the job, but since I've gutted my interior to fix floorpan holes, most of the work was already done. This also involves some risk, I broke my liftgate lock cylinder, luckily I got a replacement kit for $14 from wholesalemopar.com, and the kit is easier to put back together than the original. The replacement ignition cylinder cost like $70, I've seen them for $40 on ebay, but you can break this trying to take it apart and then you have to pay for a replacement.

BTW, Chrysler Y157 (the trianglar shaped butt) and Y159 (Oval shaped butt) Keys, are the same as far as the lock is concerned, the cut key end are exactly the same, only the butt end is different. Roughly '92-'97 was the Y157 key and then Y159 from then on, they changed over key shapes at different times for different vehicles. I think the even earlier Y155 can work with the later keys, it has an extra slot cut in it, so Y155 keys can fit and work in later lock cylinders, but later keys can't work in the Y155 lock cylinder since the later keys are missing the extra slot in the Y155 key.

Most Dealerships parts department will have a lock kit and they'll charge you like $0.15 a tumbler, $3-$7 for a cover that will need to be replaced when you pull the cylinders apart. If they don't, you can order them from one of the dealerships that do mail order, like allchryslerparts.com or wholesalemopar.com .

Tools, you need a steering wheel puller to pull off parts pressed on the end of the lock cylinders, as well, a very pointy sharp edge needle nose pliers to turn up the edges of the sheet metal caps that hold some of the lock cylinders together.

What you need;
PART NUMBERS ARE FOR '94-'96 XJ's ONLY
Door, LiftGate and GloveBox Tumblers:
4778 117 - #1 TUMBLER, Cylinder, Door/Deck, (Wide)***
4778 118 - #2 TUMBLER, Cylinder, Door/Deck, (Wide)***
4778 119 - #3 TUMBLER, Cylinder, Door/Deck, (Wide)***
4778 120 - #4 TUMBLER, Cylinder, Door/Deck, (Wide)***

A couple of springs, in case you lose them (they're tiny):
4778 121 - Door/Deck, (Wide), SPRING, Tumbler

2 Caps for the Door Cylinders:
5257 148 - YJXJ Black CAP, Door Cylinder

Caps for the Liftgate Cylinder (It has an inner and outer cap):
4637 588 - CAP, Lock Cylinder Service, Liftgate, Inner, Bright
4637 589 - CAP, Lock Cylinder Service, Liftgate, Outer, Bright
4637 590 - CAP, Lock Cylinder Service, Liftgate, Inner, Black
4637 591 - CAP, Lock Cylinder Service, Liftgate, Outer, Black

You may want to just get the Replacement Kit for the liftgate (more on that later):
4778 362 - CYLINDER, Liftgate Lock, 1995-96

Tumblers for the Ignition Lock:
5257 132 - #1 TUMBLER, Cylinder, Ignition***
5257 133 - #2 TUMBLER, Cylinder, Ignition***
5257 134 - #3 TUMBLER, Cylinder, Ignition***
5257 135 - #4 TUMBLER, Cylinder, Ignition***

The glove box was the easiest, pull the clip and push out the whole assembly from the glove box door. Then the inner cylinder is held in by plastic clips in the plastic body, just force back the clips with a screw driver and push the inner cylinder out. Then swap out tumblers to fit the new key, lube and re-assemble.

Doors were fairly easy, pull the clip from inside the door and remove the rod to the lock. Mark the arm on the back of the lock cylinder before removing (it can be put on backwards, but the wear marks on the arm will show you how it was facing when it was pulled). Force off the C-clip that holds the arm on the end of the cylinder. You'll need a very sharp needle nose pliers to pull up the edges of the cap on the end of the lock cylinder, once you've pull up the edges the cover can come off and the inner cylinder will come out. Then swap out tumblers to fit the new key, lube and re-assemble. Put the replacement cap over the lock cylinder and tap down the tabs with a Hammer.

The toughest part of the ignition is the anti-theft torx screws that are used to install it. I've seen the tool at AutoZone for a couple of bucks, a #20 torx driver with a hole drilled down the center, or you can use a punch to knock out the tiny tab out of the center of the torx screw head OR use a dremel to grind a pit in the center of torx driver (I did a combination of both). Once the ignition is out, you have another anti-theft torx screw to remove that hold the lock cylinder in the whole ignition switch assembly. You have to have the key in the ignition as you turn and pull back and forth and the lock clyinder will pop out. To get to the center cylinder out you have to pull the fitting off the end with a puller, or force the center cylinder out, make sure the key is in the lock or you could break things as you press that piece off. Once apart, swap out tumblers to fit the new key, lube and re-assemble. Put some RED Thread lock on the shaft and piece, before tapping them together lightly with a hammer.

The liftgate was the toughest, it also has a piece on the end of the shaft that will need to be pulled off with a puller. I tried tapping it off with a hammer and I broke the end of the shaft off, I ordered a replacement kit for $14, which was much easier, because it came with everything needed, except the tumblers and the lobe on the end of the shaft was off and installed with a pin. Once you pull off the lobe on the end of the shaft, you have peel back the metal on the edges of the inner and outer covers for the covers to come off and for it all to come apart. Once apart, swap out tumblers to fit the new key, lube and re-assemble. The replacement covers for the liftgate do NOT have tabs like the others, its a single collar all the way around, this is a bear to tap down with a punch and hammer. This takes some time and frustration, but I got it done. Put some RED Thread lock on the shaft and piece, before tapping them together lightly with a hammer.

im thinking since your in md. ill just bring mine to you... kidding. i applaude your effort but sounds like id break more than i fixed.Sounds like a great idea though.....Ken

how did you get the pins/ tumblers out of the rear hatch. i had to get new locks and couldent get a new rear button? i remove some of the pins and leave the two that work. thats what i had to do to my glove box.

I like the idea and I actually did something different. I got a lock cylinder for the rear hatch with a different key than the rest of the XJ. I wanted to unlock the hatch without removing the key from the ignition (shutting off the engine). I wanted to always keep a key for the rear in the center console for easy access so I can hand it to someone else to open the rear. I did not, of course, want that key to start the engine.

90xj06 said:

how did you get the pins/ tumblers out of the rear hatch. i had to get new locks and couldent get a new rear button? i remove some of the pins and leave the two that work. thats what i had to do to my glove box.

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Yea, the rear hatch was not easy. I had to get the replacement lock cylinder because I broke the original trying to take it apart. I broke the shaft off that the lobe is on, I was trying to pound it off with a hammer, I should have tried to pull it off with a puller, like I did the ignition.

The replacement lock cylinder was $14 from www.allchryslerparts.com. It comes disassembled, so half the battle is done there, the lobe is off the shaft on the end and you hold it on with a thru pin.

But to take the rear hatch lock cylinder apart you have to peel the edge of the outer and inner covers off with a sharp needle nose pliers.

The last time I tried to order a new inner cover, the dealer told me it wasn't availabe. But it comes with the new lock cylinder kit. If your careful taking it apart you can re-use the old cover, sure the lip will look mangled, but that part is internal to the lock cylinder, you'll never see it, as well, it doesn't have to seal against anything, like all the other cover do, which requires a smooth surface on the edge. The other bear about the rear hatch lock cylinder, the replacement covers do NOT have little tabs like the other replacement covers. The little tabs are easy to pound down with a hammer and hold it in place, the rear latch lock clyinder covers have no tabs, just one full lip all around the circumference. You have to start tapping it down with a punch and hammer and then work your way all the way around. Even the kit comes with the covers without tabs, making it a good hour tapping away with a hammer to close down those lips to hold the cover down.