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Removing an upper link

Deadman 94 xj

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pittsburgh, PA
Is it ok to remove an upper link for more travel in a radius arm setup? If so, which side would be best in relation to the track bar?

I know I've read about this being done, I just want to make sure before I do it.

Right now I'm running the Clayton setup. It flexes great but i'd like to increase the amount of travel it has. I'm in the process of researching a the right shocks as well (Brake lines are fine). Basically I want to maintain traction even while the front end gets light enough to flop LOL.

Thanks.

Also, I know some of you guys can do this, fess up!
 
DO NOT

reason one: do you really want one 10mm bolt keeping your axle from spinning around bending your shocks, breaking your driveshaft with a chance to screw up your steering, trackbar and brake hoses?

reason two: axle wrap, radius arms are designed with rubber bushings so they can deflect and allow for flex when fighting the other side arm removing one will more than likely increase your axle wrap and that bushing will not last long.
 
DO NOT

reason one: do you really want one 10mm bolt keeping your axle from spinning around bending your shocks, breaking your driveshaft with a chance to screw up your steering, trackbar and brake hoses?

reason two: axle wrap, radius arms are designed with rubber bushings so they can deflect and allow for flex when fighting the other side arm removing one will more than likely increase your axle wrap and that bushing will not last long.


This is strictly a trail use only application. It wouldn't be the 1/2 bolt keeping the axle from spinning but also the arm end it self, housing the upper CA mount. It would have to push through the mount and shear the bolt to go anywhere. Which would be pretty hard to do in my opinion.

I agree that I would have axle wrap to deal with during braking. I guess I would just have to see how it responds before attempting to wheel.

This is just my interpretation, I could obviously be wrong, otherwise I wouldn't have asked in the first place.
 
Get one of the rock krawler bushing replacements.

Give them a call and they will know what you are talking about.

I know LOTS of folks that run with the radus arms and only have the drivers side UCA.

I have never seen a failure.
 
Get one of the rock krawler bushing replacements.

Give them a call and they will know what you are talking about.

I know LOTS of folks that run with the radus arms and only have the drivers side UCA.

I have never seen a failure.


Are you talking about replacing the rubber mounts with an RK or a johnny joint? I wonder if that could be done with clayton arms. I'll look into it, Thanks.
 
Are you talking about replacing the rubber mounts with an RK or a johnny joint? I wonder if that could be done with clayton arms. I'll look into it, Thanks.

I'm talking about replacing the axle busing itself with a johnny joint on the upper mount.

www.rockkrawler.com sells them. They don't have them advertised on thier site but if you call them they will know what you are talking about.

Way mo betta.
 
I'm talking about replacing the axle busing itself with a johnny joint on the upper mount.

www.rockkrawler.com sells them. They don't have them advertised on thier site but if you call them they will know what you are talking about.

Way mo betta.

Ahh, I get it. The problem with that is that I'm running the tnt truss and their CA mounts are weird sizes, not stock. I understand what you're saying though. It shouldn't be hard to find something that will fit.

The upper mounts are poly right now. Lower are rubber. It just ended up that way.
 
Ahh, I get it. The problem with that is that I'm running the tnt truss and their CA mounts are weird sizes, not stock. I understand what you're saying though. It shouldn't be hard to find something that will fit.

The upper mounts are poly right now. Lower are rubber. It just ended up that way.


It isn't hard to get a welder, plate whatever you have and drill new holes.
 
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