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From your profile it looks like you have a '96. If I'm correct that means it has the older style dash. If so you just need to pull out the guage cluster bezel(I think 4 screws) remove the guage cluster it self (Another 4 screws, two wiring harnesses and the speedo cable), and the bulbs are in plastic twist in connectors on the back side. It's actually pretty easy it'll take maybe a half hour or so I'd think. I did it on my '87 MJ when I was trying to track down an electrical issue and it wasn't really a headache at all.
Had same problem with my 86. It was the fuse that blew and made the dash lights go out plus the clock would go out as well when you turned the headlights on. I had to put in an inline fuse since the factory fuse slot was damaged.
when i bought my xj the lights didnt work. took me for ever to fix it. turned out to be the headlight dimmer switch was shot. cost was $25 for a new one.