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Need help starting flooded XJ!!

TexsXJ

NAXJA Forum User
So I lucked out and got a free 1987 Cherokee Laredo 4.0 4x4 auto that was flooded with salt water from Hurrican Ike a month or so ago. Now I need help getting it started.

I have already replaced the starter/solenoid, battery, plugs/wires, fuses, checked the distributor/cap and coil. It turned over fine(w/o the plugs first), but acts like it's not getting spark. My initial thoughts are that the water corroded the computer beyond functioning and/or my wiring harness has many corroded connections. I have also read that the neutral safety switch is problematic.

Any suggestions on other problems or help in finding a wiring harness and computer for it would be much appreciated. I'm located in College Station, TX and travel to Houston frequently.

Feel free to call as well.

Many thanks,
Kevin
979.422.0972
 
I was reading about that but saw that it came up frequently on the 89s. Any other common sense things I should look at.

The coil isn't giving spark, so could the CPS still be plausible?
 
Yes.

A fried CPS will cause a no spark condition.

Also, pull your main harness apart. (Black box next to the master cylinder on the firewall) spray it out real good with some brake parts cleaner, dry it out, and pack full of fresh di-electric grease.
 
I appreciate it, I'll try it out this week as soon as I get a chance. I'm new to jeeps so i've been trying to read as much as possible. I was glad to find naxja.
 
Do not spray that connector with brake cleaner, it will damage plastic, you need a can of CRC contact cleaner, it's plastic safe. I grabbed the can of brake cleaner a couple of months ago by accident when I was cleaning the headlight sockets on the TJ after changing bulbs in the cibie's. The plastic got real soft and sticky so I left it alone for 30 minutes till all the cleaner evaporated and the plastic firmed up again. I thought I was screwed.
 
Nov 10 UPDATE:

I took the ECU, trans computer, and cruise module apart last week and they were pretty corroded; a few resistors were completely corroded through. I found a new(used) ignition control module, coil, ecu, trans computer, cruise module, and wiper module for sale on jeepforum and finally got them all in today (also replaced the cps). I had to prime the fuel pump more than a few times to get it to start, but it finally did!


So after virtually replacing the entire ignition system, it runs. Now I need to replace the alternator and fuel filter; I'll probably run some seafoam and injector cleaner through it and also drain the gas tank just to be safe.


I just wanted to say thanks for all the great technical info I've found on the site. I'll be posting a build thread soon once I get a little more free time from classes.
 
Do not spray that connector with brake cleaner, it will damage plastic, you need a can of CRC contact cleaner, it's plastic safe. I grabbed the can of brake cleaner a couple of months ago by accident when I was cleaning the headlight sockets on the TJ after changing bulbs in the cibie's. The plastic got real soft and sticky so I left it alone for 30 minutes till all the cleaner evaporated and the plastic firmed up again. I thought I was screwed.

RichP,

The perchlorethylene solvent based brake cleaners are safe on most all plastics. I have yet to find an automotive electrical plastic part that it was not safe on.

But as you discovered, some of the newer, sometimes cheaper brake cleaners have toluene and MEK in them and they will attack some plastics. The ones that attack plastics are typically also flammable. The PERC based ones are non-flamable. I don't know if the Perchlorethylene ones are available in California.
 
RichP,

The perchlorethylene solvent based brake cleaners are safe on most all plastics. I have yet to find an automotive electrical plastic part that it was not safe on.

But as you discovered, some of the newer, sometimes cheaper brake cleaners have toluene and MEK in them and they will attack some plastics. The ones that attack plastics are typically also flammable. The PERC based ones are non-flamable. I don't know if the Perchlorethylene ones are available in California.

um, Yeah Rich! Wut he said. :confused1
 
um, Yeah Rich! Wut he said. :confused1

Well, the brake cleaner from advanced auto part WILL melt plastic. I use it so much that I buy the cheapest stuff I can find. I'll spend the extra bucks on CRC electrical cleaner. Sometimes I get really cheap and break out the lacquer thinner and a brush...
:rof::rof:
 
NOV 12

I replaced the alternator and the power steering pump and lines. The battery gauge is at 13.5 now, much better. I also seafoamed it and it's idling pretty well now. I'll get some pics up this week.
 
Well, the brake cleaner from advanced auto part WILL melt plastic. I use it so much that I buy the cheapest stuff I can find. I'll spend the extra bucks on CRC electrical cleaner. Sometimes I get really cheap and break out the lacquer thinner and a brush...
:rof::rof:

Advanced store here has both types. The cheaper one (flammable, & lists toluene on the contents) will melt some plastics. Last time I checked the expensive brake cleaner (safe on plastic & non-flammable) is cheaper than the CRC electrical cleaner. I only use the CRC on MAF sensor elements because of the high cost per oz. Then I use the non-flammable brake cleaner on stuff like relay contacts and sensor and wire harness contacts.
 
welcome to the club! let me know if you want some help. i also lve in the college station area and im lookin for a few guys around here to go wheelin with and exchange info etc. and i would be glad to help ya out if u need it.
 
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