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replacing rear springs and coils?????

B

blazinjames

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver BC, Canada
so i am planning on starting to lift my 89 xj

this weekend i would like to tackel my rear suspension first.

I have never done any suspension work besides replacing shocks.

from what i understand it is fairly simple..

i jack up the jeep, put axle stands on the frame. raise the rear differentail a bit, loosen the leafs and the ujoints holding the axle in, disconnect the brake lines and lower the axle and leafts

then i put the new leafs on, install the coils, raise the diff and bold it back in?

sounds easy?

is there anything i need to be aware of that makes this more chanllenging? how do i make sure the angle and everything is ok? if i need to use shims how will i know and where do i install them?

is there any problems people run into when doing this to a older jeep?

thanks
 
Yes. Hose down *ALL* of the bolt threads with penetrant for a week before you get started.
 
yea i was gonna say that. Its a couple hour job IF all the bolts were so stubborn. prepare for the worst and have the tools to overcome that. Bolts are gonna break, be siezed up. Have a good breaker bar or a piece of pipe to use as one. Get everything together and back on level ground, then measure your driveshaft angles and fix from there. The back is easy once you break the bolts free. Once you get them turning, you gotta keep on em until they are out. Ive found that if you stop they sieze right back into place. Depending how tall you go you gotta think of...longer shocks, driveline angle fixes (TC drop or SYE or at least shims) as well as longer brake lines etc. Post up if you need any help
 
this is what i have right now a 6in lift. leafs with shackels, and shocks, and a longer u bolts shims and an extended slip yoke

its a used lift so im assuming it will sage so it will probably be 4-5inches higher.

I would like to make it work without sye if i can help it because i cant afford one right now. as far as brakelines i was going to make some in school once i get the lift installed so i know how long they will be
so im hoping with the shims i have and the longer slip yoke i hopefully wont need a sye.

how do i check the driveline angles and how do i know if i need shims or anything?

im really knew to this so it doesnt fully make sense yet
 
why bother disconnecting the driveline if you're keeping the same axle? there's really no need. i just did one side at a time. go slow, take your time, use heat, penetrating oil, and a breaker bar. the weld nuts on the front mounts of the leaf springs tend to break, either that or you get the bolt out of the nut and it gets stuck in the bushing. I'd recommend getting new bolts and smearing them with anti-seize before reinstallation.
 
not completely. you're only unlinking the things that locate the axle. the axle doesn't move much really during installation of leaf springs or control arms (for the front). i can say i didn't for mine. no need to disco the e-brake lines either... unless you're throwing in huge leaf packs.
 
Starboard M said:
No need to disco the brake lines unless it limits the droop you need.
Click to expand...

... good point. you'll be limited by the hose before you're limited by the e brake cables... if you're going to 3" or more you should go to longer brake hoses anyway.
 
blazinjames said:
so i dont have to take the axle off..im going 4-6in, can i get the coils installed without taking the axle off?
Click to expand...

There is no need to take the axle completely off.
You should search for extended brake hoses. I have 6+ inches on my rig and use the rear hose from a 96 Dakota and still have slack at full droop. For the front you can use hoses from a late 80's fullsize Chevy. If you get the SS lines you will pay alot more and they will rust and fail if you are in an area that is prone to rust.
 
ChiXJeff said:
Yes. Hose down *ALL* of the bolt threads with penetrant for a week before you get started.
Click to expand...
first take it to a car wash that has an engine degreasing bay, and clean the underside real good, avoiding the starter. , then pb-blaser.
the idea is less grime to fall in your eyes, get smeared all over your arms and just plain make things the suck
 
for the front im going with a long arm kit, dont know brand or anything, it have a quarter inch plated supframe with long arms going to the axle as for track bar, i have an adjustable one for it
 
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