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passanger windows

J

JeepFreak91

NAXJA Forum User
Location
NC
on my 1994 the passanger window switch will not make the window go up or down. same with the rear pass switch. but the other two windows do work and the pass windows do go up and down when you are using the drivers side controles. both switches are good on the pass side and both are receiving power. the lockout switch for the windows is not the problem. any ideas?
 
jneary said:
look for broken wiring under the carpet in the drivers foot well. sometimes moisture gets under the carpet and it can corrode.
Click to expand...
will that affect the passanger side. that side is getting power but its just not moving the windows. switches are good also
 
i may. the harness runs under the front carpet and under the console from left to right. i would at least inspect it for any obvious problems. i have seen it mostly on the drivers side though.
 
This sounds like a two-bit answer to your problem but I would strongly suggest you get a factory service manual for your Jeep....and, for your electrical problem, an inexpensive VOM (volt/ohm meter) available at your parts store or Radio Shack.

I just got done resurrecting my power windows and I'd have never been able to fix them without the testing/troubleshooting procedures in the FSM. In may case, none of the windows would work using their corresponding door switches (they would work from the drivers panel). As in my '00 XJ, you probably have a drivers door panel or "module" (as the book says) from which you can operate all the windows, the window lock and the door locks. This drivers door module (DDM) is where all the power and ground circuits for all the other window motors are fed through. I found a loss of continuity and a large voltage drop isolated to the DDM and, with those results, the book said to replace the DDM becuase it is not serviceable. Not really true..... I was able to carefully take apart the module and inside are all the switch contacts. There was a lot of crud built up on many of the switch contacts and after cleaning them all and reassembling the DDM, it was retested with good results. The wiring was reconnected and all windows now operate as they should. There was nothing wrong with any wiring. In the end I figured I saved well over $100 (the cost of a new DDM).

You could blindly replace wires and never fix the problem. Get the book, get the meter and follow the trouble shooting instructions.

Mike
00XJ
 
jocko463 said:
This sounds like a two-bit answer to your problem but I would strongly suggest you get a factory service manual for your Jeep....and, for your electrical problem, an inexpensive VOM (volt/ohm meter) available at your parts store or Radio Shack.

I just got done resurrecting my power windows and I'd have never been able to fix them without the testing/troubleshooting procedures in the FSM. In may case, none of the windows would work using their corresponding door switches (they would work from the drivers panel). As in my '00 XJ, you probably have a drivers door panel or "module" (as the book says) from which you can operate all the windows, the window lock and the door locks. This drivers door module (DDM) is where all the power and ground circuits for all the other window motors are fed through. I found a loss of continuity and a large voltage drop isolated to the DDM and, with those results, the book said to replace the DDM becuase it is not serviceable. Not really true..... I was able to carefully take apart the module and inside are all the switch contacts. There was a lot of crud built up on many of the switch contacts and after cleaning them all and reassembling the DDM, it was retested with good results. The wiring was reconnected and all windows now operate as they should. There was nothing wrong with any wiring. In the end I figured I saved well over $100 (the cost of a new DDM).

You could blindly replace wires and never fix the problem. Get the book, get the meter and follow the trouble shooting instructions.

Mike
00XJ
Click to expand...

i already have a multitester and I cannot shell out the $100 plus dollars for a service manual right now. if thats my last resort i will just leave it like it is
 
I couldn't shell out a hundred smackers either; FSM's are available online.....usually used and well under $100. Do a Google search for "factory service manuals" and it'll come up with a few online vendors. Check eBay also. You should be able to find one for not much more than you'd pay for a new copy of a model specific, multi-year Chiltons guide.
 
i think i found my problem. somebody said that the lockout switch will cut the grounds to the windows to make them not go up and down when you use their switch. I think the wiring in the door got cut somewhere making it not have a ground to any windows any more. This sounds very likely since i am getting power to the switches just that they wont move their window but the drivers side does control all of them fine.
 
Ok, my problem is a little different, my passanger front window worked till a couple of days ago, i rolled it down and now it will not move at all. I have checked the wiring in the door, and found that none of the wires going into the switch for the window are hot. I also tryed just running some hot to both wires of the motor(seperatly of course) and have not been able to get the window to move either.

I would like to fix the problem, or at least get it to work off the drivers side, but if someone just knows how to get the window up, that would work for now.

Im searching the net right now for a fsm, but if anyone has any ideas till i can get one, it would really be helpfull.

Dalen
97 XJ 3" Rusty's Lift & Rusty's Flares, Roof Rack, 31x10.50s wrapped around Eagle Allows.
 
Some theory regarding the window motors:

It is a DC motor so that means its rotation is reversible by simply switching the positive and negative leads to the motor (this is what the door and drivers panel switches do).

Make sure the window is not racked in the frame (cocked or jammed slightly); the motor won't lift it if it is. Since your window is stuck down, you will need to remove the door panel to get at it (along with the inner weather/splash shield).

The drivers door module (DDM) is the common source for both positve 12 volt power as well as the ground for all the window motors....if you've got a bum DDM, then you might have a loss of positive voltage and/or a loss of ground. When you "hot wire" the motor, make sure you apply positive voltage and also provide a ground.

Check these guys out for FSM's:

http://www.factoryautomanuals.com/

Here's an eBay seller I've dealt with (got my XJ FSM from them):

http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=lorieandjeff&item=-1&frm=1883

Like I said in a previous post, if the DDM is bad, you'll just be wasting your time replacing wiring on a whim. The FSM troubleshooting procedures should get you squared away or at least on the right track.

Good luck....

Mike
00XJ
 
Thanks for the info, I tore into it last night, did the quick fix with the wires, and it did not work, so i tore the ddm apart, and cleaned and relubed it, and then it worked sometimes, so i took the pass door apart, cleaned the switch there, and depending on how hard you shut the passanger door, sometimes it works and sometimes it does not.

I think im just going to leave it up now that it is up, and waite till i can get a fsm. I think im going to need a new ddm(mine did not look very good, some of the clips where broke etc) and see if i can get a switch for the passanger side as well. When it has power, the window works great, but you can tell by the little findme light in the switch if it is going to work or not. If the light is not on, tap the switch or slam the door, and then it might work, just make sure you roll it up before opening or closing the door again.

Dealing with this has made me have anouther idea -> will the roll down window doors off of an earlier model work on the 97+ model xjs?
 
jocko463 said:
Here's an eBay seller I've dealt with (got my XJ FSM from them):
http://feedback.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewFeedback&userid=lorieandjeff&item=-1&frm=1883
Mike
00XJ
Click to expand...

Mike, thanks for the link, i went and looked, and this is what i found, and the price was not bad, so i bought it..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&item=220023352353&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1
I also found this to go with these other books.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-Jeep-Grand-Cherokee-Factory-Shop-Manual-L-K_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ34224QQihZ012QQitemZ220026448492http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997...4QQihZ004QQcategoryZ34224QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
So, if i can get this one too, then i would have the whole set of books it looks like, then maybe i will not have to ask these questions all the time, maybe i can answer them.

Thanks again for your patence and your help.
 
Last edited:
i dont have any lights on the switches on my 1994. i took a look and didnt see a module inside the driver door. does a 1994 have one? i may have just overlooked it.
 
JeepFreak91 said:
i dont have any lights on the switches on my 1994. i took a look and didnt see a module inside the driver door. does a 1994 have one? i may have just overlooked it.
Click to expand...

I'm not familiar with the '94 driver's door layout. Do you have a grouping of all the door, window and lock switches? The "module", if you have one, is the assembly containing all of the switches. What does the wiring harness in the drivers door connect to?

This is where having the factory manual will help immensely....see my other post for some links.... prices are usually quite reasonable for used copies.
 
jocko463 said:
I'm not familiar with the '94 driver's door layout. Do you have a grouping of all the door, window and lock switches? The "module", if you have one, is the assembly containing all of the switches. What does the wiring harness in the drivers door connect to?

This is where having the factory manual will help immensely....see my other post for some links.... prices are usually quite reasonable for used copies.
Click to expand...

right now i cant afford one. but all the switches are just plugged in to this clear looking plastic/rubber type stuff and the wires come out of that. it doesnt look like theres a circuit board. my door locks and speaker work ittermitantly and if you jiggle the wirring harness boot the locks and speaker start to work. i must have atleast one broken wire in the boot and when i take a look at that ill see if anything else is broken.
 
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