BB w/ blocks and spacers

ok i have an 89 jeep xj.... i have the budjet boost lift on it s10 leafs and f-150 springs i like it an all i just want a bit bigger and i just wanna know what ppl thought of stacking that lift on some blocks and spacers. i know i'll need drive shafts and drop the t-case, shocks, braklines steering...ect. but good or bad idea?

You won't need driveshafts. Where did you get that idea?!?! Go shackles over blocks anyday. You won't NECCESSARILY need to drop the T-Case. I've netted 3.5" to 4.0" on my '95 and didnt need to. Shocks yes(If you are adding the BB to the lift you already have, if not no). Straigten the brakelines out and reount them. Spacers are a great way to lift. Blocks not so much.

Stack two junkyard coil isolators and find MJ shackles. I'f not do something similar. Alot of people don't mind blocks but since it's a Jeep and your prob going to be offroad the flexing might break leafs. Someone had leafs that broke at the block on the forum somewhere.

k i have the s10 leafs and f-150 spings in already. i want to stack them on top of the spacers and blocks. or isolators w/e i find i just wanna know if its a safe thing to do or not really, i got 4" out of the bd i wanna set it up on 3 more inches of blocks and spacers and net around that 7ish area

Shackles are safer then blocks. If your trying to get another 3 inchs, you might as well get new coils and leafs, and what ever fallows that.

If you want around 7 inches, you'll need way more than just blocks and spacers! Why would you want to go that big? Since your running a junkyard lift, I am assuming you still have stock axles and drivetrain? What size tires? What are your goals, mostly on, or off road?

Over 3", you should replace, at least, the LCAs. Over 4.5 inches, you will want to run a long arm kit, or drop brackets. Take a look at the RE parts list for the lift height you want, that will give you an idea of everything that will need to be done. To run large enough tires that it doesn't look goofy will take Axles and Gears.

Blocks are just BAD!

Budget built is fine, you just have to SAFELY correct everything the high dollar lift kits address. For example, you can use chevy 1500 front brake lines and Dakota rears.

A set of shackles will run about the same price as a set of solid steel blocks (anything else is just scary!). The shackles will not only provide a safer, longer lasting lift, they will also help with ride and flex.

You should also consider the shackle relocation brackets, they really help with bastard packs! Here is a writeup I did on my budget rear suspension, and it still works beautifully: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=949492.

oh i'm on stock axles so far, and i'm wanting to clear 35's, ok so i wont go with blocks wat about those shackle drop kits and possibly makin a long arm kit? i'm a good welder i just dont wanna buy a bunch of stuff lifts are a lil crazy priced for me atm so i wanna fab it all up

Stay away from blocks!

On our last trip to the trails the XJ in front of me was running 3" blocks.

He had to lock up his brakes on a fire road leading to the trail and the reverse wrap from the axle pulled the slip yoke out and destroyed his rear DS. His day was done and he limped home on the front axle. Luckily no other damage occurred.

I have a set of 2inch blocks with ubolts for a dana 35 if your interested.

Don't mean to sound like a complete advocate of the blocks but i think it just depends on the fatigue already set into your leaf pack. I have in my budget 84 bronco 2 a set of 4" blocks and we've made it in and out of the rubicon trail twice now with those underneath a set of stock leaves among a half dozen other trails. Not to mention what ever wheelen the previous two owners put this thing through, its green stickered so its only sees the rough stuff. Granted we did pass another bronco two on the con with a broken rear leaf from the blocks it had. He asked me if i had a spare set of springs...ha the irony. Although i've seen springs snap ontop of regular perches with little stressed placed on them. Just ultimately comes down to driving style/skill and amount of spring fatigue. If you don't have the money but want the height now, block it untill you can install the appropriate counterpart. but 7"s imo is stupid

If you go with block by all means get steal ones. The cheap cast alluminum ones wont last a week on an offroad rig. Id even recomend giving each block a small tack weld to keep them from turning and falling out.
IMO still a bad idea.

I've always heard bad things about block but never really seen any fail, until this summer, someone shattered theirs at NWFest and it killed his trip. Then again I have a redneck friend that put 12" wood blocks on his ranger "because he can" and wheeled a few times just fine... :doh: I don't recommend that btw, he's a dumba** drunk redneck lol... no really he is... ill have to post some pics of his rigs as what not to do when lifting anything lol. Kinda like that XJ on a frame... thats held in place with ratchet straps.:wow:

Da_twit_83 said:

oh i'm on stock axles so far, and i'm wanting to clear 35's, ok so i wont go with blocks wat about those shackle drop kits and possibly makin a long arm kit? i'm a good welder i just dont wanna buy a bunch of stuff lifts are a lil crazy priced for me atm so i wanna fab it all up

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You can clear the 35s with 4.5" and trimming. I am on 33s now, but will be going to 35s when they wear out. I don't plan on going any higher than I am now. My lift measures about 5.5", and with the trimming I have done, I could fit 35s on 4.5" with no problem. I am on short arms at 5.5", and the ride is tolerable, but I will definitely be adding longarms or drop brackets soon!

Not only will the smaller lift keep your COG down, but it will ride better if you can't go longarm or DB right away. If you choose to make your own longarms, make sure to do a LOT of searching and research first. I have seen a lot of home brew longarm setups on here over the years. Some were great, but most needed improvement. Others were just down right scary! The sad thing is, if most of them did a little research first and didn't try to take shortcuts, they really could have had something.

In addition to the lift, to run 35s your also going to need to regear (4.88s would be good), and upgrade the axles. If you still have a D35 rear, don't even bother with it! Swap that POS out for a D44 or 8.8. Alloy shafts in front would also be a good idea, and a must if you play in rocks!

Im have about 5 inches of lift n i have stock brake lines, never dropped my t-case or touched any of that and have 3 inch lift shocks.

Shoemaker said:

Im have about 5 inches of lift n i have stock brake lines, never dropped my t-case or touched any of that and have 3 inch lift shocks.

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You must not have much flex, or your just not testing them right. I had to replace my relocated YJ lines with something longer @ 5.5"! I'd say your 3" shocks have a lot to do with that though.

Just a note when checking brake line length.... Make sure when you check them, your at FULL droop/flex, and turn the wheels! As the wheels turn, the calipers move, pulling on the line even more.

I am not running an SYE either, and have no vibes, but I did drop the case and set the angles right.

This is by "budget built", short armed XJ.... It won't look like this for long though. It's off the road now, and as soon as my truck sells I am going to do a bit of much deserved and long awaited work on her.