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Homemade TMR Frame Stiffeners

Starboard M

NAXJA Member
NAXJA Member
Location
Lafayette, CA
Since the tech is a bit lacking around here, I thought I would spice it up.


Several companies make frame stiffeners that go from the lower control arm mount, to the spring hanger. These are becoming a common addition for the average wheeler, and considerably help the strength of the unibody.

Now what about the front of the unibody, going from the lower control arm mount forward to the front bumper? And, do you really need this?

At some point I plan on adding a cage, and I wanted to weld my track bar brace to my “frame” but didn’t want to weld it to the thin stock frame rail. A plate stretching from my TnT stiffeners to my front bumper would help the front end keep some structural integrity, allow for cage mounting locations, and also give me a solid mount for my track bar bracket.


Temper-Metal Racing, or TMR, seems to be the only company to make frame stiffeners that go in the front. Those can be bought here:
http://www.temper-mentalracing.net/services.htm

But since I had time, a 4’x6’ sheet of 1/8’’ steel, and some time, I decided to make them myself and save $100. So here I go, off to build me some frame stiffeners.



First I sat down and figured out where I wanted the plating to go. My plan was to go from my front bumper, back to the TnT stiffeners I already had installed a couple years ago.

Step 1: Pull the front wheels off, and lower frame onto jack stands.
Picture059.jpg


Step 2: Remove engine, transmission, transfer case, and front suspension.
Picture061.jpg


Picture067.jpg


Step 3: Take a look at what you are starting with.
024.jpg


Step 4: Grind off the paint, mud, dirt, and anything else you can get off to get down to bare metal.
030.jpg


Step 5: Take your preferred brand of cereal, and eat until you have a box that you can cut into a template. Make said template, transfer it onto your sheet of metal, cut out, and look at your handy work.
033.jpg


Step 6: By now it has taken me about an 1.5 hours. I then figure I should drill some ½’’ holes for plug welds. I think I went a bit overboard with them, and it took me another 2 hours just to drill all those freaking holes with our hand drill and dull bits.
033.jpg


Step 7: Admire your handiwork, and set those things up there. A bit of love from the grinder, and they fit like a glove. I used a C clamp to get the stiffener as close to the frame as possible, and then tacked it in place.
037.jpg


Step 8: Weld it in! There are many different ideas on what is best, and I am far from an expert, but I ended up welding the entire outside, and all of the plug welds. It took me about 2 hours to weld each side. Alternating spots, letting it cool, and coming back and doing different sections.
049.jpg


Step 9: Grind down all the plug welds to make it look better.
051-1.jpg


Step 10: Paint, reinstall motor, engine, tranny, and tcase. Then go test them out.
091.jpg



Notes:
-I ended up cutting the plates so that I could get my bumper on. I have a homemade bumper, and I made it tight enough that I couldn’t get a 1/8’’ (1/4’’ total) plate on each side. Unwilling to rework the bumper, I just made the plate fit to the bumper. At some point Ill be building a new bumper, and incorporate a plate that will go all the way to the front of the frame.

-I have no idea if I properly welded them on, or not. There is a lot of debate about the proper way to weld on a unibody, so proceed at your own risk.

-Step 1 and 2 are optional, but not having to deal with the coil spring and shock sure helped.

-My winch bumper build:
http://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=968021

-Don’t burn down your house, and always wear protection!
 
this is an area that has little to no issue, why bother?

someones creating a bunch of work for nothing in my eyes....(n)
 
this is an area that has little to no issue, why bother?

someones creating a bunch of work for nothing in my eyes....(n)
:rolleyes: this is the area of the unibody "frame" most prone to twisting, causing cracks and splitting at the firewall. strengthening up this area helps reduce body roll for one, and stiffens up the entire front of the XJs unibody.

nice work. how much shipped to 90504? :D


:cheers:
 
this is an area that has little to no issue, why bother?

someones creating a bunch of work for nothing in my eyes....(n)


Huh? You are kidding right? The front is subject to steering stress... Engine torque... frequent impact, etc...

Nice work... I like the idea of a cut up cereal box for a template! :idea:
 
Wow those look really good, nice work.

So wanna sell that bumper when you make a new one? :D

-Alex
Bumper will be going to my dad when I do make a new one.
So what I want to know is who got to eat those mini wheats?
LOL
Nice tho!
My mom actually eats a bunch of them. They were the only thing in the trash, so I wasnt discriminate.

Why you gotta pull the motor? :dunno:
You guys obviously have never welded on a unibody. precautions must be made to make sure that the welding does not mess up the PCM and ECU. The only way to properly do this, you must uninstall the motor.

this is an area that has little to no issue, why bother?

someones creating a bunch of work for nothing in my eyes....(n)
I think your dumb(n)



For all you people who were wondering why I took the motor out I did an engine swap and ended up doing this at the same time.

If you actually read, in the notes section, I also said that step one and two are optional.

;)
 
Game. Set. Match.

Work looks excellent. I have a access to a portable sandblaster. Should help a lot with removal of the undercoating and all that crap.
 
You guys obviously have never welded on a unibody. precautions must be made to make sure that the welding does not mess up the PCM and ECU. The only way to properly do this, you must uninstall the motor.

Ive welded to alot of various unibody rigs, not just Cherokees, and have never had a single problem with the computers frying. I could see if you are trying to run the ground through the engine block, then maybe. Just seems like a waste or 6 hours to pull and then install the engine just to do some welding on the 'frame'.
 
Ive welded to alot of various unibody rigs, not just Cherokees, and have never had a single problem with the computers frying. I could see if you are trying to run the ground through the engine block, then maybe. Just seems like a waste or 6 hours to pull and then install the engine just to do some welding on the 'frame'.

It was actually a bit of a joke. I was doing a motor swap, and ended up doing this at the same time.
 
You guys obviously have never welded on a unibody. precautions must be made to make sure that the welding does not mess up the PCM and ECU. The only way to properly do this, you must uninstall the motor.

I think your dumb(n)
;)


Priceless!
 
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