Airflow snorkle vs. K &N Fipk

If I switch to a snorkle from my current setup with my K&N fipk with I have a power loss of will it be about the same? If I do switch should I run a K&N filter or an Accel cool blue filter in the airbox? Thanks

it should be about the same.

Hey Fitch you got the airflow correct? Hows it working out for you?

I to have the airflow and it rocks. It looks sweet and if certaily flows more air than the old box. Plus the added "cheap" insurance to hydrolocking. Far superior design to the ARB one. Downfall was I had to import it direct from Australia thou.

villestrip said:

Hey Fitch you got the airflow correct? Hows it working out for you?

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working fine so far still keeping my engine internals dry << knocks on wood >>

twisted_ed said:

I to have the airflow and it rocks. It looks sweet and if certaily flows more air than the old box. Plus the added "cheap" insurance to hydrolocking. Far superior design to the ARB one. Downfall was I had to import it direct from Australia thou.

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yup yup. i agree. and i also got mine direct from AUS :wave:

DPG now has the Airflow snorkels. Check 'em out at:

http://www.dpgoffroad.com/

Yeah thanks for the link thats where I was planning on ordering one from them. Just wanted to see how it was working out for others. I spent the money on the k&n last year but I want to go to the snorkle but I didn't want to do it if I would be taking a performance loss. Plus I got to sell the k&n now.

They say theirs does not work with ABS. Who makes one for ABS?

Tweeternpi said:

They say theirs does not work with ABS. Who makes one for ABS?

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arb safari snorkel

ABS, who wants abs, rip that crap out!!

Remember, if you put in an airflow in a pre 97, ull have to relocate, get a new washer bottle. in a post 97, the safari will most likely cause you to relocate your in the fender washer bottle.

Also if you have the FIPK then you need to either get another airbox or make a snorkel canister for the k and n. I am not sure why but I think long ago FitchVa said he couldnt make a cansiter work for the airflow, perhaps he can reiterate why, I want to remove my airbox and put a canister in soon if possible.

twisted_ed said:

Remember, if you put in an airflow in a pre 97, ull have to relocate, get a new washer bottle. in a post 97, the safari will most likely cause you to relocate your in the fender washer bottle.

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i didnt have to do this for my 96. just drilled the appropriate holes and fitted, no relocation...maybe the design has changed.

http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoSnorkelInstall1.htm

twisted_ed said:

I am not sure why but I think long ago FitchVa said he couldnt make a cansiter work for the airflow, perhaps he can reiterate why, I want to remove my airbox and put a canister in soon if possible.

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yeah, i bought the canister setup that i've seen people use for with the arb safari snorkel. ( http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JAairIntake/AirIntake.htm )

however, i couldn't get it to work. given more time, it might be able to work. but at the time, i needed it installed at working and couldn't get it to work. one day i might be able to put more time into it.

before i installed the snorkel, here is a side by side shot i took of both of my snorkels ( bought the arb used and sold to my brother after i aquired the airflow)

(airflow on top, arb on bottom)


as you can see, the airflow inlet tube is farther back than the arb unit and goes straight into the engine compartment. and using the 90 deg fittings to turn the arb tube straight into the engine compartment (like in the madxj writeup) moves the inlet tube even farther forwards.

with the arb setup farther forwards, the tubing "path" (for lack of a better term) is more like an "L" shape after it enters the engine compartment. it enters in from the outside, straight into the canister, then turns for the intake inlet.

whereas with the airflow setup, it enters directly facing and into the brake stuff. so then it would have to make a tight 90 deg turn to the front, then another 90 deg turn into the canister. and when i mocked it all up, there just wasn't any room to do all of that.

that being said, after taking another look at the madxj writeup, he seems to have the room i didn't have. i might have to give it another try tonight after work. don't want that expensive canister wasting away in my closet

Well I hope you can get it to work cause I dont want to order an intense performance cansister if it wont work cause I want to add a second battery to the drivers side for extra winching power.

I have thought about making my own canister so I could fabricate it to fit better using welded on 90* elbows instead of clamp on ones adding length. only thing is I like intenses filters with the hollow end

does adding a snorkle effect high RPM power? like when your going down the freeway.

I would like to think its like a little super charger forcing in air to the engine.. mabe get .76 psi boost

thanks smart ass

ive been told it takes top end power away, and wanted to find out if that is true from some people that run them.

i swapped a k&n cone filter/air tube setup for my arb safari snorkel and i havent felt a loss of power at all at highway RPMs. i cannot claim any "ram air" effect, at least not with proof, but the airflow is definitely there. i can hear a whistle thru the snorkel the same as i could thru the k&n.

-Tim

about the power questions ... my seat-of-the-pants dyno shows no power loss over the power band of the engine. the smallest, most constrictive part of the snorkel is still the same size, if not a little larger than the hole in the factory airbox.

i messed around with the snorkel last night to see if i could get the intense canister to work.

i couldn't get it to work WITH THE TIME I HAD. i'm going on a weekend-long camping / offroading trip this weekend so i really didn't want to take everything out and start fiddling with the setup. i'll play with it more later.

the largest hurdle is getting adapters that work and take up very little space. the inlet hole for the canister is 4" but the hose from the snorkel is 3". i purchased a reducer a while back when i first toyed with it. but the darn thing is 4"-5" long itself. that really takes away valuable space. in the madxj article, the author made his own adapter by welding a piece of exhaust pipe to a piece of sheet metal. so essentially he has his reducer that takes up 0". that's the route i'll probably go.

then the other mistake was that i was going to try to reuse the factory inlet hose from the throttle body to the stock airbox ... but into the new canister. that isn't gonna work either. the 45 deg angle the factory one uses pushes the canister too far out towards the computer and inner fender, thus not allowing for the other bends to be made back to the snorkel. i tried to force it to do what i wanted but it wanted to kink up on me. whatever is used, needs to basically come off of the TB going straight up, then curving 90 deg directly towards the front of the xj. then make another 90 deg bend back down, then another 90 directly to the pass side to go into the canister.

i don't think it's all that hard to make work. however, getting it to work in an apt parking lot with low light in an hour wasn't working too well

Yah I was thinking that I would just make my own canister that way I can build a 3" flange on either end, and perhaps on the TB side the flange might become offset with a bend built right in