'96 getting a '97 engine - input anyone?

My '96's 4.0 is`toast (long story), so I got a low-miles '97 engine to put in.

most stuff i've found says ther'll be no probs in a straight swap of the`block/head, but I wanted to ask you all for you thoughts-

think of anything i need a "heads-up" on before I get going on Saturday?

Nixt said:

My '96's 4.0 is`toast (long story), so I got a low-miles '97 engine to put in.

most stuff i've found says ther'll be no probs in a straight swap of the`block/head, but I wanted to ask you all for you thoughts-

think of anything i need a "heads-up" on before I get going on Saturday?

Click to expand...

Same block, same head. Drop it in and go - you should have no trouble.

I think it's even the same elctronics, I could be wrong tho.

igotanxj said:

I think it's even the same elctronics, I could be wrong tho.

Click to expand...

They're both OBD-II, but OBD-II changed slightly from year to year as emissions controls tightened up. Mechanically, they're the same. Electronically, they're close.

@Nixt - dumb question, but do you need the old engine for a core? It would take me a bit to come up with the dosh to cover you, but I'm trying to collect batch of heads (you should have a #0630 on your 1996...) and I'd like to try to talk you out of the main bearing cap brace and studs for it as well...

Engine in and running (with some kinks to work out). Big thanks to my uncle Jay who baby-sat me through it this weekend!!

One problem:
It seems that the '97 does NOT have the bore for the temp sensor at the very rear of the head.
(We only noticed it as we ditd the connections after the thing was in!)
Anyone know if I can safely eliminate that temp sensor for good?
The main temp sensor is up in the front with the thermostat, so I *think* that the rear sensor is for the electric fan when the engine gets really hot... But I don't actually know, so I'm asking...

Hey 5-90:
I do have to return block and head for a core, BUT... yes on the brace, conditionally.
Since I don't know what it is- you'll need to educate me on how to pull it for ya. (Really, I'm not kidding, read my posts - I'm totally new to wrenching and its pretty much a "paint-by-numbers" experience for me....)

The rear sensor drives the gauge that's all. If you want the gauge to work you can extend the wires and mount the sender into the lower radiator hose, the thermostat housing, or a number of other places where coolant already flows.

Thanks for the info on that sensor.

I searched and found many say the same, but there were so many hits on the search that I fried out after a few pages and wanted to ask here if anyone knows of a writeup w/ pics on drilling the t-stat housing for it?

Nixt said:

Engine in and running (with some kinks to work out). Big thanks to my uncle Jay who baby-sat me through it this weekend!!

One problem:
It seems that the '97 does NOT have the bore for the temp sensor at the very rear of the head.
(We only noticed it as we ditd the connections after the thing was in!)
Anyone know if I can safely eliminate that temp sensor for good?
The main temp sensor is up in the front with the thermostat, so I *think* that the rear sensor is for the electric fan when the engine gets really hot... But I don't actually know, so I'm asking...

Hey 5-90:
I do have to return block and head for a core, BUT... yes on the brace, conditionally.
Since I don't know what it is- you'll need to educate me on how to pull it for ya. (Really, I'm not kidding, read my posts - I'm totally new to wrenching and its pretty much a "paint-by-numbers" experience for me....)

Click to expand...

On the 1996, you still have the IP gage being driven by the sensor in the cylinder head. So, you have to keep it, unless you swap electronics (or provide a sensor somewhere else. Starting in 1997, the gage/lamp was driven by the ECU.)

Sounds like you'll need to keep the studs (which I'd have replaced with new anyhow,) but here's the easy way to find the brace:

Put the block on a stand, or somewhere else you can turn it over easily.
Remove the oil sump.
You'll be looking at the bottom end of the engine. The crankshaft runs front-back, with the main bearing caps straddling it. The main bearing caps are hidden by the brace I'm looking for - it's a long bar with five sets of arms that attach to the main bearing cap studs. There are nuts holding the brace in place - remove the nuts, and you can lift the brace off. You'll probably need to leave the studs in place for your engine core, but you should have no trouble removing the brace.

Earlier engines didn't have the brace - it was added in 1996. I'm just looking for one for when I do my stroker (finally.) I'm gradually assembling parts for a "dream engine" to be built one of these days.

Google's search engine is better than the one here, just add "site:naxja.org" to the end of the search

Personally my favorite method is the one that uses a section of pipe inline with a hose, with a brass fitting in the hose. Autometer makes a bunch of packaged kits for different hoses that could work -- http://www.autometer.com/cat_accessorieslist.aspx?pid=15



The problem with running anything up to the front is that you have to be careful where you drape the wires. I'm looking at running the sensor down to the rear of the block and tapping it into the block drain plug.

ehall -
right on, man! nice simple fix! Thank you. As for the wires, cable ties and proper routing, I guess.

5-90 -
I will have some wrench time Sunday (away today through Saturday), and will see if I can get that out then. I'll also pull the studs if I can - regardless of core policy. There was a good alternator on the engine when I bought it, and it was gone when they delivered it, so they owe me anyways... It may get put off another weekend if I get busy w/ other things, but consider the brace yours. (Its the least I can do, really, you provide so much help here to me and others that its well woth it to hook you up - thanks!)