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detorit and lock right on the street

E

emr1101

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Raleigh, NC
Im picking up an hp30 and a 8.25 with lockright and detroit (respectively) geared to 456. my jeep is a daily driver though, i know the lockright will probobly be okay on the street but what about the detorit? Its going to be on 35s and a manual, pretty deep gears so its gonna be jumpy in 1st i dont want to spin into a guard rail or anything coming off a turn
 
If you have the ability to get into the gas smoothly you shouldn't have any problem with the Detroit in the rear. If you treat the gas pedal like an on/off switch you may have some trouble.
 
Im running a lock rite with 4.11's on the street as a dd I personally like the lock rite its a little noisy but nothing that the radio want drown out .
 
hmm... what about tire wear? any ideas on what effect those lockers will have on that? And i can drive smooth that is my goal when driving a stick, but i am a spirited driver, is that okay?
 
Spirited driving is fine, getting on the gas smooth is the key. Tire wear is a little worse with a rear locker but not much worse. I assume you will be in 2wd on the street so you shouldn't even notice the front.
 
The detroit will have an effect on your driving. You will come to expect it soon enough and it will become a non issue. To humor your worries though, my wife runs that differential combo on her jeep with an auto transmission. When cruising down the street in a straight line, if I let off the gas and then floor it, it is pretty unpredictable. 5/10 times it will push right, the other 5 times are split between going straight and pushing left. It's not horrible though, and as I said you get used to it and it becomes a non-issue.
 
yea i wasnt really wanting to run a detroit in the back, but its in there. I might just regear my back and leave it open. What about a no-slip? Would it be as noticable?
 
leave it alone if it is in there

i run a detroit in the rear and an aussie in the front with an auto - on the street i always disconnect my front driveshaft - less wear and no more click click on turns plus it drives much smoother
 
aparke4 said:
leave it alone if it is in there

i run a detroit in the rear and an aussie in the front with an auto - on the street i always disconnect my front driveshaft - less wear and no more click click on turns plus it drives much smoother
Click to expand...

No, it still clicks if you disconnect the driveshaft and the wear is the same on everything except front driveshaft u-joints. :roll:

Edit: X2 on leave it in there. You've got a good thing, decide you really don't like it before you un-do such beauty.

Edit again: The wear will increase on the driveshaft bolts and nuts that it attaches with :D
 
once you take it on the trail, you won't care how it drives on the street :roll:
 
goodburbon said:
No, it still clicks if you disconnect the driveshaft and the wear is the same on everything except front driveshaft u-joints. :roll:

Edit: X2 on leave it in there. You've got a good thing, decide you really don't like it before you un-do such beauty.

Edit again: The wear will increase on the driveshaft bolts and nuts that it attaches with :D
Click to expand...

WELL IN MY CASE - i disco the front b/c for whatever reason it drives a little better on the road - i do what a want!

oh ya less resistance is better MPG so there

:dunce:
 
tomcat said:
once you take it on the trail, you won't care how it drives on the street :roll:
Click to expand...

Exactly. Leave it in there. You will get used to it on the street. Its not as bad as you think it will be. Use smooth gas pedal and you will be fine.
 
Hmmmm so i have another idea, what about switching to manual locking hubs? How hard/expensive would that be? That way i can disco the axle shafts right
 
Going to manual Locking hubs is pretty much pointless on a D30. Its just polishing a turd.

I believe the kit is something like $1K.

You can buy a built from 44 for that much. (With manual hubs)
 
Dont worry about the front, in 2wd its like the lockrite is not even there. I DD with a powertraxx no slip rear and lockrite front, the lockrite is invisible and I notice the no slip when I let off the gas and then hit it again.

-Alex
 
Where which one? The kit for $1K or the 44 for about the same price?

Found the kit on froogle.com

and as far as the front 44. We just picked one up from a guy, it has a Detroit Tru-trac and 4.56 gears. and we paid $400. Add another $600 for alloy shafts, hi-steer arms, and a HD diff cover, and your good to go.

Plus i can pull Front 44s in the junk yard pretty regularly for $200 a pop.
 
swbooking said:
Where which one? The kit for $1K or the 44 for about the same price?

Found the kit on froogle.com

and as far as the front 44. We just picked one up from a guy, it has a Detroit Tru-trac and 4.56 gears. and we paid $400. Add another $600 for alloy shafts, hi-steer arms, and a HD diff cover, and your good to go.

Plus i can pull Front 44s in the junk yard pretty regularly for $200 a pop.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I have a 44 in my yard, you tell me how I can re-tube it, bracket it, re-gear it, buy a diff, new shafts, brakes, hubs, rotors, ball joints for under a grand.:sure:
 
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