2000, self adjusting rear brks or not?

I have searched alot and not found answer... Are my 2000 Cherokee Sport rear drum breaks self adjusting?? I'm replacing the pads and hardware and need to know how to adjust..:dunce:
Thanks, you guys are awsome !!

As a matter of a fact, they are.

Adjusters are reachable though a rubber grommeted whole in the backing plate and when you get the drums off, you will see it between the two shoes on the bottom of the assembly.

This post scares me for some reason. Did you get a Haynes or Factory Service Manual for your Jeep? If not, I'd get one and read up on what you are doing before you do it.

I have a haynes and it clearly says to manually adjust using the adjuster. I understand the process...My question comes from the conflicting posts i found doing searches... Some indicate the rears are SELF ADJUSTING (to me that means repeatedly backing and applying breaks...NOT MESSING WITH THE ADJUSTER.)
This conflicts with the HAYNES which says to Manually adjust using adjuster. That is why I'm asking...haynes covers 88-01 and things are not always as they indicate on all models.
So,,, can i use the backing up / applying breaks repeatedly to adjust or, do i have to adjust manually?
Im just trying to resolve the conflicting info.
Thanks for your quick reply.

While they are "self-adjusting",they seldom actually work!

RCP Phx said:

While they are "self-adjusting",they seldom actually work!

Click to expand...

X2
Technically they are self adjusting but they very seldom work. Mine will self adjust just after I service them, then I need to pull the rubber cap off and do it manually.
Inside the little hole at the bottom of the backing plate is the adjusting wheel with teeth on it. Theres an arm that engages the teeth on the wheel but the way its positioned and the shape of the teeth let it catch in one direction and click by in the other, like a ratchet. Thats the self adjusting part. When you back up and hit the brakes, it pulls the arm in one direction then when you pull forward the arm catches the teeth which turns the adjusting wheel and tightens the brakes. Thats the way its supposed to work but for whatever reason, it seldom does.

I don't think the engineers had much faith in the self-adjusters (it seems as though they didn't expect it to work, or there would not be a manual adjustment and instructions to use it), and neither do I. Had to manually retract mine to pull the drums off, and adjust them again afterwards to get the brakes to work properly.

As far as I know, all drum brakes on American autos have been self adjusting since the 60s. The 40s & some of the 50s cars I had as a kid didn't have them. Adjusting your brakes used to be part of maintaining your car. Of course, as previously mentioned, they don't always work the way they should, New brake shoes should always be manually adjusted when they are installed.

so to manually adjust, you extend them till you hear grinding or feel resistance, then retract them till its fre ?? is that correct?

with the rear wheels off the ground, i adjust the shoes until they slightly drag on the drums.

The only way I can get mine to self adjust is if everything is squeaky clean and very well lubed. If not, then it's crawl under (like this morning) and bring them up to snuff.....

4byfour said:

I have a haynes and it clearly says to manually adjust using the adjuster. I understand the process...My question comes from the conflicting posts i found doing searches... Some indicate the rears are SELF ADJUSTING (to me that means repeatedly backing and applying breaks...NOT MESSING WITH THE ADJUSTER.)
This conflicts with the HAYNES which says to Manually adjust using adjuster. That is why I'm asking...haynes covers 88-01 and things are not always as they indicate on all models.
So,,, can i use the backing up / applying breaks repeatedly to adjust or, do i have to adjust manually?
Im just trying to resolve the conflicting info.
Thanks for your quick reply.

Click to expand...

Good, you have a book then

All years of the XJ have self adjusting rear drum brakes.

The procedure in the Haynes manual is correct.
You replace the shoes, put the drum on, and attach the wheel. Then, with the Jeep still on stands, you adjust the brakes using the manual adjuster. If your self adjusters work, they will keep your brakes adjusted from then on.

I had to laugh when I read that. The picture that came to my mind was of a Midas parking lot with 4 or 5 mechanics repeatedly backing up and slamming on the brakes at different rates.
It's be a hell of a thing to watch

As mentioned above, the self adjusters on these brakes are not very good. but in addition, this type of ratcheting self adjuster requires an initial manual adjustment. So when you put them together you should always manually adjust them even if the self adjusters are working properly (this is not universally true, by the way - the self adjusters on some vehicles, such as VW Jettas and Golfs, will self adjust completely on the first brake application).

I usually adjust mine until they start to drag a little, but don't bother to retract. You'll have to push back the adjuster pawl to reverse the adjuster without damaging the pawl or the adjuster teeth.

If you've just put the brakes together, make sure you work the pedal and the handbrake a few times after you've done the adjustment, and check it again, because the shoes might resettle once or twice.

Also make sure that you get the adjuster pivots (the crescent-shaped partial pulley that the cable goes over, on the top shoe) properly seated in the shoe, and that they don't get dislodged when you put the spring through them. It's easy to do, especially with aftermarket hardware. The pivot will stay up and not fall out, but it won't be in the right place, and your adjusters will never self-adjust.

According to my factory service manual, to make the self adjusters work, you do not need to slam the brakes on, but you need to apply them firmly, going both forward and back, and to come to a complete stop each time.