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Got a HUGE problem!

TunaSoda

TunaSoda

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Douglas, MA
OK, I was trying to remove my rear right tire and one of the lug-nuts would not budge, so I got out the breaker bar and a length of tube hoping to make short work of it. I got it to turn but it just keeps turning and not coming off. It feels as though the wheel stud and the lug-nut may be fused together and just stripped out and spinning. WTF do I do to fix that? :(
 
remove the aqxle, cut the head off of the wheel stud, and replace, i would replace all of them while u are at it its really not that hard to do if u have never pulled an axle before good luck
 
dinorl007 said:
remove the aqxle, cut the head off of the wheel stud, and replace, i would replace all of them while u are at it its really not that hard to do if u have never pulled an axle before good luck
Click to expand...

Well, I do need to replace my rear axle seals anyway (and might as well do the bearing rings), so I just open the diff, pull the c-clips and the shaft should slide right out tire and all?
 
You need to pull your carrier center pin out, and then you will be able to push your axle in far enough to get the c-clips out
 
What about just breaking out the angle grinder and cutting into the lug-nut? :D
 
TunaSoda said:
Well, I do need to replace my rear axle seals anyway (and might as well do the bearing rings), so I just open the diff, pull the c-clips and the shaft should slide right out tire and all?
Click to expand...

Depends upon which rear differential you have and whether you have an open carrier, limited slip or locker installed....

On an open carrier... you will either need to remove a roll pin or bolt from the carrier housing to allow you to slide the center pin out which the spider gears rotate on... Then remove spider gears and thrust washers you might get lucky and they stay in place due surface tension of oil), push axles inward about 1/4-3/8", remove C-clips and slide axles out.

On a limited slip carrier; the disassembly is much the same, but removing the clutch packs can be a PITA since they are held together with clips and generally when the packs are removed; the clutchs and plates separate trying to access the C-clips.

On a locker.... the disassembly can be much the same OR different depending upon who the manufacturer is...
 
Which rims do you have? If your lugnut sticks out, they have these tools called nut splitters, you can get them at autozone or Sears I believe. They slide over the lugnut, and have a bolt that as you tighten, it forces a wedge into the nut, and after a couple turns, it cracks the lugnut, allowing you to then take it off.
 
Begster said:
Which rims do you have? If your lugnut sticks out, they have these tools called nut splitters, you can get them at autozone or Sears I believe. They slide over the lugnut, and have a bolt that as you tighten, it forces a wedge into the nut, and after a couple turns, it cracks the lugnut, allowing you to then take it off.
Click to expand...


Begster beat me to the post....
Here is what he is referring to....

pACE2-996553dt.jpg
 
Begster said:
Which rims do you have? If your lugnut sticks out, they have these tools called nut splitters, you can get them at autozone or Sears I believe. They slide over the lugnut, and have a bolt that as you tighten, it forces a wedge into the nut, and after a couple turns, it cracks the lugnut, allowing you to then take it off.
Click to expand...

Hmm, well they are mickey thompson classic locks (alum) the tapered end of the lug is resessed into the flange I'd say about 1/4"~3/8"

I'm replacing them with steelies (when able to!)
 
Would it be much harder to replace the studs with the shaft still on the jeep?

I guess I'm asking how many of you would just pull the shafts as their first choice?
 
TunaSoda said:
Would it be much harder to replace the studs with the shaft still on the jeep?

I guess I'm asking how many of you would just pull the shafts as their first choice?
Click to expand...

The studs are pressed into the flange that is part of the axle. The axle has to be removed because they are pressed in from the back of the flange. Once the axle shaft is out the job is a quick one.

Mark
 
If you can get the nut off, I'm pretty sure there's enough clearance behind the flange to replace a stud without pulling the axle. If I were doing this, I think I'd either split or torch off the nut if it's possible. But if you have no access to an acetylene torch, pulling the axle would likely be the easiest solution.

If you do have a torch, it should be possible to burn out the nut without damaging the wheel if you're careful. The steel and slag won't stick to the aluminum, so as long as you don't get it so hot you melt the wheel, it should be fine. But be careful, because burning into a hole like that will spray slag and junk right back at you. Make sure you place yourself beside it, and be prepared to put out fires.
 
What is more likely, the stud or the flange being stripped?
 
TunaSoda said:
What is more likely, the stud or the flange being stripped?
Click to expand...
i would say the stud, its only the thin splines on the knurled section of the stud that hole it in.
 
have u tried getting he nut off with an impact, can u put the other lug nuts back on adn take it somewhere that has an air compressor and an impact , if u have not been able to get it off yet i would reccomend trying this first good luck
 
had this happen to a friends mj the first week he had it.... on the oem 10-hole, flat faced oem wheels.... recessed lugs... a dremel + chisel WOULD have worked... but we pulled the wheel and axle as an assembly, and threw it right in the nearest dumpster.

this is another reason to run primo lug nuts, and NEVER let yourself or anyone else use the wrong size socket.... if you have multiple jeeps, use the same sized lug nuts, these problems BLOW
 
Last edited:
ALSO, any wheel that would allow the use of one of those nut breakers.... would also allow you to take it off with a sawzall, these problems are amplified by poor wheel design, like the 5 spoke oem wheels... so if you have the oem 5 spokes.... and oem lug nuts.... upgrade, you will thank me later
 
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