swany
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- sanford maine
ok i am running 33" tsl's with a 4.5 inch lift. my stoping power has not been the same since. is there a break upgrade for these(94 xj) or some suttable sub?
-
Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.
break upgrade
- Thread starter swany
- Start date
Rocketman
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Bolingbrook, IL
There are proportioning valve tricks, different power boosters, and of course, the inevitable rear disk upgrade. Other than those things, you kind of have to re-learn how your vehicle brakes. TSL's aren't exactly a good road tire either. They don't help the situation on the road.
swany
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- sanford maine
oh i was thinking that there would be like a bigger disk and caliper kit or something. i am really new to the breaks with big tires so could you please tell me more about the valve trick or where i could find more info about your suggestions thanks
BRIANHO13
<- Yum Chocolate
- Location
- Spring, TX
swap in a front 44 with a rear 9" or 60. I can lock up 37's on pavement.
RCP Phx
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Phoenix,Az
For "you" it sounds like the best idea would be to get some smaller tires thus negating the need for more "stopping" power from the "brake" system and eliminate "substituting" any parts!swany said:
:roflmao:
- Location
- 29°58'28.9"N 99°15'15.5"W
The "valve" thing wil decrease your stopping power if you do not do oterh upgrades at the same time.Bob Myers said:
>>>>>Rear discs<<<<<<
MogifiedXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Tellico, TN
Bob Myers said:
After you convert to rear discs find a grand cherokee porportioning vavle, take the spring out of it and put it into your cherokee's proportioning valve.
Last edited:
BrettM
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- michifornia
dual diapham booster from 95+
As it is the brake actually feels like it is bottoming out on the floor, it isn't i have checked. When i did the new rear shoes and cylinders the pedal went a lot farther down than it does now, when bleeding-so i am reasonably sure i'm not on the floor or out of travel. it just goes to a point and gets hard, yet won't hold the wheels stopped if you gas it even just a little. Would a better booster help there or would a master cylinder with more displacement be better?
EricT
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Idaho Falls, ID
good brake pads will help too
BrettM said:
:thumbup: if you seArch, this is whAt you get.
HP PAds, slotted rotors, otherwise:
www.4x4wire.com -> jeep tech ->zj cAliper swAp
EricT
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Idaho Falls, ID
those are good
I use performance friction, little nicer to the rotors but good stopping power
I use performance friction, little nicer to the rotors but good stopping power
Ahh the person who helped you, their foot mooved to fAst. And 4.0's Are exceptionAl torqe producers. you might hAve Air left in the system, you could hve A fAulty ooster, or you might need to find someone with A slower foot. And/or did you Allow for brke seating after you replaced them? HP pads tke longer to seat, not just a few stops. glzed pads'lll have similar symptoms. sorry, semi-mets set faster. organics-slower.
Last edited:
Are the ZJ rear discs pretty much a bolt on swap? Would they work in conjuunction with the 95 dual diaphragm booster better than without? I guess the easy way to ask would be; if you only did one of these would the benefits be worth the effort, and which one would be most effective without doing the other, or would both be necessary to justify the work and expense?
Damn thats hard to read but, what would be systemamatic of a faulty booster? It holds vacuum well after the engine is shut down for a bit. It does not "creep"(pedal) to the floor if you hold it hard. And as far as a "fast foot" I bled them myself, by myself and have done such things for over 40 years with only a couple of units that just had to have either vacuum bled or someone help me with.jeppo said:
I presume i seated them correctly, same method i've used for years on roundy rounder cars and drag cars and other peoples street cars and trucks. A couple of really hard stops-near lockup point from about 35mph, then a long slow stop from about 50, a few more hard quick stops using max pedal. Never let hot brakes come to a complete stop, nor hold the brakes at a stop if they are hot, shift to park or nuetral until time to move again.Holding hot brakes at a standstill deposits minute amounts of brake friction material on rotors and drums and decreases effective stopping power.jeppo said:
