There is no torque setting for a conventional hub nut. It has a "castle nut" with a sheet metal retainer and a cotter pin retainer, right?
After you pack the bearing and set it back in place, put the nut on the spindle and tighten gradually while rotating the wheel slowly. It's best to do this with the tire and rim in place. Keep checking by pushing and pulling on the top of the tire for play in the bearing. After you have spun it a few times to be certain the bearing is seated, the idea is to tighten it nut just to the point where all free play has been removed from the bearing -- no farther. Then back off the nut to until the slots in the "castle" and the sheet metal lock nut line up with the hole in the spindle and you can install the cotter pin.
Effectively the goal is zero lash with zero preload, but since that's pretty much impossible, it's better to have a tiny amount of lash than to preload the bearing.