sprngfldxj
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Springfield, Colorado
Need some help.
Almost finished with my H&T and needed to just attach the Flange from the RE 1801 kit to the DS. Someone gave me numbers as to junk yard finds, that I could use in place of the "Spicer" 211229X part.
The numbers given to me were for "Lincoln Cont. years 82-83.
I got that part and it doesnt seem to fit over the RE adapter flange that is on the shaft.
Any help?
Taken from previous thread........................
For starters, if you are going to ask if you need a SYE and CV shaft then you probably do. (someone has that in their sig and its so true its not funny)
How to use the front driveshaft in the rear
So a couple months ago I was getting ready to do a SYE and CV shaft in my XJ when a friend pointed out that the front shaft is a CV and may work. So after much research I found what it would take to do, did it, and seems that everyone wants to do this mod now and there is a lot of untrue info is spread.
For starters, I can only confirm that this will work if you have a 4.0, AW4, and 8.25 rear axle. From what I’ve learned if you have the D35 the shaft will be too short in which case you could have it lengthened. I have never tried this on a D35 so maybe someday someone will and let us know how it worked or didn’t.
On my XJ I have the RE 4.5” Superflex kit with full packs in the rear. It sits at about 6” in the rear and the shaft has about an inch left of compression. So that leads me to believe that this wouldn’t be a good idea with any less lift as the shaft will be too long.
Picking a front shaft: All you need to find is that it is a 4.0 and AW4 and any year will work. There is a lot of misinformation about what years of XJ you need to find the shaft out of. Some people say that the newer years are stronger; some say older shafts are too weak. Only thing I can confirm is that I pulled mine from a 89 XJ and have no problems. In fact I compared the shaft to my 97 front shaft, a friends 2000 front shaft, and the front shaft from a 94 Grand Cherokee and guess what, identical in every way on each application. Even had the same part numbers stamped on them and same factory weights. To back up that they are all the same I had a friend pull them up in the computer at the parts store he works at and the computer shows that all XJ’s with the 4.0 and AW4 take the same shaft and parts.
Picking a SYE: If you have a 95 or older you need a full SYE kit. If you have a 96+ you can choose between the full replacement SYE or the so popular RE hack and tap. It is debated back and forth whether the HnT is a good idea so I’ll make it simple. If you want the strongest possible way to go or plan on doing much low range rock crawling, get the full replacement shaft. If you aren’t running a 4:1 low range, 35” or smaller tires, and don’t plan on jumping your XJ or abusing to the point it is a trail only rig, then you are probably ok with the HnT. I use the HnT in my XJ with 33’s and have no problems. I don’t push my XJ super hard and don’t care to rock crawl so I don’t foresee ever having any problems. Either way, its up to you. I’ve never seen a HnT fail so I’m not concerned.
If you plan on using the HnT you are going to need Spicer part #211229x. This is the part that attaches to the driveshaft via U-joint and bolts to the RE HnT. You can get the part at most parts stores. It is still in production so there is no shortage of it. The parts store may not have it in stock but I’m sure they can get it. I got mine at Napa for about $50. I also found it at Six States for a few dollars more.
If you want to really make it a budget project you can find that spicer part #211229x in the junkyard on the following cars:
80-83 T-birds
82-83 continentals
80-82 Cougar XR-7
Almost finished with my H&T and needed to just attach the Flange from the RE 1801 kit to the DS. Someone gave me numbers as to junk yard finds, that I could use in place of the "Spicer" 211229X part.
The numbers given to me were for "Lincoln Cont. years 82-83.
I got that part and it doesnt seem to fit over the RE adapter flange that is on the shaft.
Any help?
Taken from previous thread........................
For starters, if you are going to ask if you need a SYE and CV shaft then you probably do. (someone has that in their sig and its so true its not funny)
How to use the front driveshaft in the rear
So a couple months ago I was getting ready to do a SYE and CV shaft in my XJ when a friend pointed out that the front shaft is a CV and may work. So after much research I found what it would take to do, did it, and seems that everyone wants to do this mod now and there is a lot of untrue info is spread.
For starters, I can only confirm that this will work if you have a 4.0, AW4, and 8.25 rear axle. From what I’ve learned if you have the D35 the shaft will be too short in which case you could have it lengthened. I have never tried this on a D35 so maybe someday someone will and let us know how it worked or didn’t.
On my XJ I have the RE 4.5” Superflex kit with full packs in the rear. It sits at about 6” in the rear and the shaft has about an inch left of compression. So that leads me to believe that this wouldn’t be a good idea with any less lift as the shaft will be too long.
Picking a front shaft: All you need to find is that it is a 4.0 and AW4 and any year will work. There is a lot of misinformation about what years of XJ you need to find the shaft out of. Some people say that the newer years are stronger; some say older shafts are too weak. Only thing I can confirm is that I pulled mine from a 89 XJ and have no problems. In fact I compared the shaft to my 97 front shaft, a friends 2000 front shaft, and the front shaft from a 94 Grand Cherokee and guess what, identical in every way on each application. Even had the same part numbers stamped on them and same factory weights. To back up that they are all the same I had a friend pull them up in the computer at the parts store he works at and the computer shows that all XJ’s with the 4.0 and AW4 take the same shaft and parts.
Picking a SYE: If you have a 95 or older you need a full SYE kit. If you have a 96+ you can choose between the full replacement SYE or the so popular RE hack and tap. It is debated back and forth whether the HnT is a good idea so I’ll make it simple. If you want the strongest possible way to go or plan on doing much low range rock crawling, get the full replacement shaft. If you aren’t running a 4:1 low range, 35” or smaller tires, and don’t plan on jumping your XJ or abusing to the point it is a trail only rig, then you are probably ok with the HnT. I use the HnT in my XJ with 33’s and have no problems. I don’t push my XJ super hard and don’t care to rock crawl so I don’t foresee ever having any problems. Either way, its up to you. I’ve never seen a HnT fail so I’m not concerned.
If you plan on using the HnT you are going to need Spicer part #211229x. This is the part that attaches to the driveshaft via U-joint and bolts to the RE HnT. You can get the part at most parts stores. It is still in production so there is no shortage of it. The parts store may not have it in stock but I’m sure they can get it. I got mine at Napa for about $50. I also found it at Six States for a few dollars more.
If you want to really make it a budget project you can find that spicer part #211229x in the junkyard on the following cars:
80-83 T-birds
82-83 continentals
80-82 Cougar XR-7
