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Tips on exhaust manifold replacement

wcbuyer

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Raleigh, NC
It is time to replace my cracked exhaust manifold on my '99 XJ, 4.0, auto. 4x4. I have an APN on order and this is going to be next weekends (hopefully only 1 day) project. Are there any tips or secrets other then remove and replace per the FSM? I will spray PB Blaster on the nuts and bolts everyday. Would you use the gasket and doughnut that comes with the APN or get one from someone else? They said their gasket is a good gasket.

Thanks
 
This thread and the one it links to:

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=959984

talk about possible clearance issues between the exhaust runner for #6 and the intake.

- spray the gasket with copper spray to help seal.
- replace the bolts.
- label or take pictures of how all the plugs connect to the sensors on the TB and intake.
- wobbly socket head or ratchet u-joint can help get to the back bolts.
- I found that the gasket that came with my header (different brand so ymmv) was kind of thick and one of the center header pipes touched the intake. Didn't think that was a good idea so got a thinner felpro gasket which allowed a little gap between the two pieces.

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wcbuyer said:
It is time to replace my cracked exhaust manifold on my '99 XJ, 4.0, auto. 4x4. I have an APN on order and this is going to be next weekends (hopefully only 1 day) project. Are there any tips or secrets other then remove and replace per the FSM? I will spray PB Blaster on the nuts and bolts everyday. Would you use the gasket and doughnut that comes with the APN or get one from someone else? They said their gasket is a good gasket.

Should I also change the 0-ring on the fuel line?

Thanks
 
I just replaced my exhaust manifold on my 96. Like you, I thought about the fuel rail o-rings. I bought the replacement kit, but figured I'd just put it back together and see if it leaked. It went together fine, with no leaks, so I now have an o-ring replacement pack to carry on the trail.

As was said, mark all connectors and hoses before disassembly. I marked the injector connectors as 1-6 so I got those right.

I expected to have trouble with bolts and the stud nuts, but they all came off with no problem. Had to cut the studs on the downpipe though. Since mine came with new bolts was not a problem.
 
Finished up the replacement tonight and it seems to run and idle better then before. sjkimmel99 thanks for the link - I had read that before I posted but I did refer back to it during the install. I had to trim the bottom of the intake on the #6 cylinder for clearance and I also got the felpro gasket - much better then what came with the manifold.

Thanks again for the replies
 
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